tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75441916611489437232024-03-14T04:57:08.520-07:00The Ramblings of an ADHD SeamstressMousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.comBlogger56125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-85418084676000743792018-11-10T06:50:00.000-08:002018-11-10T06:50:50.247-08:00A Ridiculous Hat for Crown Tourney<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJRf0dxTrYRd98AULDjqCnQ4r71kKEb8RbNv1JNdAW10QC8eU9yN7yPbDnZUqMVrH9s0UBphzmYCVRVtw-LnY5fUpeTvHfJkw1CLFoR4qJ0h1e8hKdhlxCxv8MN0ANUAzVcZ-DALMY2lq/s1600/the+wife+of+a+banker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="313" data-original-width="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJRf0dxTrYRd98AULDjqCnQ4r71kKEb8RbNv1JNdAW10QC8eU9yN7yPbDnZUqMVrH9s0UBphzmYCVRVtw-LnY5fUpeTvHfJkw1CLFoR4qJ0h1e8hKdhlxCxv8MN0ANUAzVcZ-DALMY2lq/s1600/the+wife+of+a+banker.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The banker and his wife, detail<br />
Marinus van Roejmerswealen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Keeping with the tradition I started last year, I decided that I needed a new silly hat for fall crown tourney this year. Something appropriately ridiculous, but that I might be able to re-wear more often than <a href="https://mousewerks.blogspot.com/2017/10/15th-century-heart-shaped-hennin.html" target="_blank">last year's effort</a>. I had a portrait that had caught my eye months and months ago specifically because of the totally over the top headgear.I loved absolutely everything about this hat, especially that it appeared to be worn with a forehead cloth, which would cover my too short for accuracy hair. The fact that she is wearing it with a houpelande is even more perfect because it makes it a good combination with my houpelande and therefore perfect for my crown outfit, and more re-wearable as part of my dress uniform.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i1.wp.com/royalcentral.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Anne_of_Cleves_by_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger-e1457296427896.jpg?resize=1000%2C600" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Related image" border="0" height="192" src="https://i1.wp.com/royalcentral.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Anne_of_Cleves_by_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger-e1457296427896.jpg?resize=1000%2C600" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anne of Cleves, 1539, Hans Holbein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gac3i7p4J-s/W-HejQ3UDhI/AAAAAAAANfo/yW147NjTwOYOMud6OVeIGEVocom07867wCL0BGAYYCw/h2048/6346642554226249933%253Faccount_id%253D0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gac3i7p4J-s/W-HejQ3UDhI/AAAAAAAANfo/yW147NjTwOYOMud6OVeIGEVocom07867wCL0BGAYYCw/h2048/6346642554226249933%253Faccount_id%253D0" width="179" /></a>The hat pictured in the Roejmerswealen painting appears to be brocade, with a black band (maybe velvet?) and a brown forehead cloth. I wasn't sure that forehead cloths were a THING for this era, but the portrait of anne of cleves, dated 1539, distinctly shows a forehead cloth. The Banker and his Wife is from between 1533 and 1545, in the same rough time period and geographical area fashion wise.<br />
<br />
I started out by cutting butchers paper, pinning and taping it, and sticking it on my head, until I had a suitable shape. Although the whole hat has a rounded shape, it seemed like there was a distinct line at the top edge, where you could put a seam. So I made it in two pieces, a curved front and a flat back.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_ZyyRATnxo0/W-He_uYCTWI/AAAAAAAANf8/SQtjinJcx4A6fwjXCgl9LOmbPG02RkZ8ACL0BGAYYCw/h512/2018-10-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_ZyyRATnxo0/W-He_uYCTWI/AAAAAAAANf8/SQtjinJcx4A6fwjXCgl9LOmbPG02RkZ8ACL0BGAYYCw/h512/2018-10-02.jpg" /></a>A LOT of taping and pinning and cutting later, I had something I thought worked, so I pinned my veil over it to double check the shape with the veil on. (this was another project where I amused my sister with a succession of ridiculous pictures of me wearing paper hats.) I was having fits trying to get the shape of the horns right, when I realized that this probably would have been worn over a long braid coiled and taped at the back of the head. My hair is quite short right now and I was putting the back of the hat snug to my head. As soon as I allowed for the period hairstyle under the hat, the shape immediately went in the right direction.<br />
<br />
Now it was time to make the hat form. I traced my pattern onto the buckram with sharpie (I bought real actual buckram to use on this project, upgrading from my earlier use of heavy needlepoint canvas). I then cut it out with a very very scant seam allowance, and sewed the top seam. Which I then ironed to the back and steamed down over my sleeve board to force it to be a rounded slope rather than a sharp edge along the seam. I overlapped and whip stitched all the other seams, and added a small dart at the nape of the neck to get the bottom back to sit closer to my head.<br />
<br />
I covered the whole thing with a layer of batting to soften out any edges and seams.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oilcdFIgxkM/W-HfJaDpqqI/AAAAAAAANf8/9k92HeUx3vkyNjXEOcs2fW-yUgFhhnKTQCL0BGAYYCw/h1152/3753021953401196797%253Faccount_id%253D0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oilcdFIgxkM/W-HfJaDpqqI/AAAAAAAANf8/9k92HeUx3vkyNjXEOcs2fW-yUgFhhnKTQCL0BGAYYCw/h1152/3753021953401196797%253Faccount_id%253D0" width="320" /></a></div>
That done I had to decide what to cover it with. I wanted something I could wear with my dress uniform, which meant either black, grey, or red and black. I decided on red and black squares, turned on their points, as a nod to the personal arms of the house brother I was acting as consort for. Therefore I cut 1 1/2 inch strips out of red and black silk (the red was a sari and had to be stabilized with tissue weight fusible interfacing) and began to sew.... Sew the strips together, cut them across into 1 1/2 inch strips, sew THOSE strips together... a lot of pinning and ironing and some considerable time later.... I had something that looked like I was trying to make a fabric checkers board...<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E8gGM-lqfO0/W-Hfcoo9cNI/AAAAAAAANgI/qWPh_FXls7YxYxIM6lNe2shrODqgdpCkgCL0BGAYYCw/h1152/8802721393595506225%253Faccount_id%253D0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E8gGM-lqfO0/W-Hfcoo9cNI/AAAAAAAANgI/qWPh_FXls7YxYxIM6lNe2shrODqgdpCkgCL0BGAYYCw/h1152/8802721393595506225%253Faccount_id%253D0" width="320" /></a>With the fabric to cover the hat all made (and me praying I'd made enough) I started pinning it on. I wanted to mount it with the squares running diagonal as much as possible, so I centered one set of diamonds on the center front, and straight down the back, and started smoothing and tucking from there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gy-qkH3aqvQ/W-HfjP2biZI/AAAAAAAANgQ/9qOaVhYQa-AZkQVy7NIYK_yPxhflTfAAQCL0BGAYYCw/h2048/84287383589905763%253Faccount_id%253D0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gy-qkH3aqvQ/W-HfjP2biZI/AAAAAAAANgQ/9qOaVhYQa-AZkQVy7NIYK_yPxhflTfAAQCL0BGAYYCw/h2048/84287383589905763%253Faccount_id%253D0" width="180" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
And smoothing and tucking and pinning, and trimming off extra and sewing it on spots there wasn't enough, and STILL praying I had enough. I had enough, but only just, a tiny handful of scraps was all that was left over.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-orKxig2_R_s/W-MpiOIekjI/AAAAAAAANjI/c1lzyZ_-3NEFzCuWO6Oxr-QpmkouB7-SACL0BGAYYCw/h1152/6961483846122804984%253Faccount_id%253D0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-orKxig2_R_s/W-MpiOIekjI/AAAAAAAANjI/c1lzyZ_-3NEFzCuWO6Oxr-QpmkouB7-SACL0BGAYYCw/h1152/6961483846122804984%253Faccount_id%253D0" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sEjMW-Ccdzc/W-MpvDQbakI/AAAAAAAANjY/FWuUK7roqZQ8NkJUE3yI0P2vNjUoYmeaQCL0BGAYYCw/h1152/4772242880418025642%253Faccount_id%253D0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sEjMW-Ccdzc/W-MpvDQbakI/AAAAAAAANjY/FWuUK7roqZQ8NkJUE3yI0P2vNjUoYmeaQCL0BGAYYCw/h1152/4772242880418025642%253Faccount_id%253D0" width="320" /></a><br />
while I was doing this I was trying to think of how to make this hat just a LITTLE bit more ridiculous. because you know, covering it in 1" piecework squares just didn't seem like QUITE enough. I got lucky and found some teeny tiny stamped tin maltese crosses in a shop specializing in vintage millinery supplies on etsy. Each approximately a quarter inch square. I bought all of them that they had and hoped it'd be enough to cover the whole hat with some sort of pattern. I was able to cover the front side with every other black square, and had just four left. So I used them to pick out Joachim's arms on the back of the hat.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gF4icu6AAUk/W-Mp3lc1wgI/AAAAAAAANjs/JddQ5piX_r8thw8Ok8Bilp4V4zghykQ1wCL0BGAYYCw/h2048/8368866963154108582%253Faccount_id%253D0" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-gF4icu6AAUk/W-Mp3lc1wgI/AAAAAAAANjs/JddQ5piX_r8thw8Ok8Bilp4V4zghykQ1wCL0BGAYYCw/h2048/8368866963154108582%253Faccount_id%253D0" width="180" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
I did the last bits of this in the car on the way there, seven hours is a long drive and I like having handwork to keep me busy. However it also means that I'm further away from my tools and led me to a kind of funny oops. Getting the points tight was a bit of a struggle, involving lots of pins and muttering. I carefully pinned one corner, stitched it up, turned the hat over..... and realized I had sewn one of the pin heads into the corner! So there is the point of a pin sticking out of the fabric in the middle of the back. No way was I taking it out and redoing it! Now that I'm back home I plan on nipping that off with a pair of wire snips. (the pucker you see is the edge of a tuck easing the edge into the bottom curve.) (you can also see where I had to add a little piece onto the corner here and my square matching got a little wonky)<br />
<br />
The last step was a black velvet band stitched down around the face edge. This hat actually doesn't have a wired edge at all, nor does it need it to keep its shape. the band is tight around the head and the friction of the velvet keeps the hat stuck to your coif/forehead cloth really efficiently.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgum74NNqzfMBTQ0T9a7W1hKpog10-RhCSS_P6oddpKqkYhbeC77anC8v_kf7CbxsLzwqznRPsl-jNYnZikHxQVZB5CGHkDeWyoXZS-wDgVjyLKTbduM_c0xqGdSAgwiYYcQwYISbpXFtJd/s1600/45490372_2015895505367060_5282043728008052736_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1600" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgum74NNqzfMBTQ0T9a7W1hKpog10-RhCSS_P6oddpKqkYhbeC77anC8v_kf7CbxsLzwqznRPsl-jNYnZikHxQVZB5CGHkDeWyoXZS-wDgVjyLKTbduM_c0xqGdSAgwiYYcQwYISbpXFtJd/s400/45490372_2015895505367060_5282043728008052736_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Brenden Crane</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I cut a largish forehead cloth out of brown linen (big enough to pin at the nape of my neck), close to the color of my hair and to the color of the painting. I actually dispensed with the coif for the day since I don't have enough hair to need to restrain it, and just pinned the forehead cloth around my head like a bandanna then put the hat on over it, and pinned the veil on. (I used my small rectangular silk organza veil with the beaded ends) I can attest that this is light, comfortable, and WILL stay put through almost anything: including gale force winds.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVKaoPaOVA5YFuX6Fr1hUW7dVkX92Wi5vuq7oUTKLDaR8TzZgnRE-h8QP0o83R0e0fR2ezvOp18zsgWnN04Sqdm83Fv4-lOiM81ikulQyu__IU0dI-xuBKyai9iJ5kE3V_Iwvw_8c-M3jd/s1600/45628131_2016763885280222_8353142307553280000_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVKaoPaOVA5YFuX6Fr1hUW7dVkX92Wi5vuq7oUTKLDaR8TzZgnRE-h8QP0o83R0e0fR2ezvOp18zsgWnN04Sqdm83Fv4-lOiM81ikulQyu__IU0dI-xuBKyai9iJ5kE3V_Iwvw_8c-M3jd/s400/45628131_2016763885280222_8353142307553280000_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-1930012532460561752018-11-06T06:45:00.000-08:002018-11-06T06:49:57.437-08:00a quick favorI've needed to design a more all purpose favor than the one <a href="https://mousewerks.blogspot.com/2017/12/husbeasts-favor-experiment-in-hair-work.html" target="_blank">I made for the Husbeast</a>, which was effectively insanity on silk, for a while. Aside from showing support for your own particular fighter: there's a growing movement to have adults sponsor youth fighters in the youth tournaments. I think that's really wonderful, and I've meant to get involved a couple times, but not had time to design and make something. I've also thought a small favor worked in miniature as say, a bookmark, might make a very nice "your work is REALLY incredible" token for arts. But, again, I just haven't gotten to it. But I ended up standing in as consort for a friend at crown tournament, which typically involves the consort giving the fighter representing them a favor, and it seemed like a good opportunity to design something that could be made reasonably quickly in a number of mediums. That way when opportunity to use it came up, I could just transfer it to fabric and work it up however I wanted: embellished applique, bayuex stitch, or even just outlined in stem stitch if I was in a particular hurry. I also wanted something I could use any materials that I had lying around or struck my fancy on. A basic, all purpose design, that would remain clearly representative of me.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6g-EpoclIM5BBT3rOvxyR8iAPtAaDjKv5OYNqgxPwPkKM-BkWrEliJhSpnCwXSoiH_wYS3bL-vEZPdCMW7OEp3KogyFK7qOTS6tMuoIs3bN0DkWa1YClpUapjSIyljlpV7v6xYkrwypQ/s1600/_DSC3901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1309" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6g-EpoclIM5BBT3rOvxyR8iAPtAaDjKv5OYNqgxPwPkKM-BkWrEliJhSpnCwXSoiH_wYS3bL-vEZPdCMW7OEp3KogyFK7qOTS6tMuoIs3bN0DkWa1YClpUapjSIyljlpV7v6xYkrwypQ/s320/_DSC3901.JPG" width="261" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkP3K3NVk6A5DY-tkY49k2_SZy5toLPawOCwQbMuLQ0dpvOHsYeRDGQriCawZAQ29FeoRDpMmj6_Yw-WPaadDTmtcNJuknhRk4QDnoKlzhYet-qv-BTwDk9oKMTNiSygREqRTuZu3is6Dm/s1600/_DSC3883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1301" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkP3K3NVk6A5DY-tkY49k2_SZy5toLPawOCwQbMuLQ0dpvOHsYeRDGQriCawZAQ29FeoRDpMmj6_Yw-WPaadDTmtcNJuknhRk4QDnoKlzhYet-qv-BTwDk9oKMTNiSygREqRTuZu3is6Dm/s320/_DSC3883.JPG" width="260" /></a><br />
I started with my arms, which are a mouse salient on a green field, and added my household arms to it. It made a super cute design!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Gdn5g265YQ8y79oBjOt0tPHinKJPtUiLVR5mF8d_ktvcvA_f4S31si8Q7mLSUQQRAXFErpsUYV2Cxv5tTV2jR3ymr1IOCTVE91fGXdspgDFidYZ8EqWAN4uFgjLCvSJpqeNd4e3Kox6S/s1600/_DSC3862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Gdn5g265YQ8y79oBjOt0tPHinKJPtUiLVR5mF8d_ktvcvA_f4S31si8Q7mLSUQQRAXFErpsUYV2Cxv5tTV2jR3ymr1IOCTVE91fGXdspgDFidYZ8EqWAN4uFgjLCvSJpqeNd4e3Kox6S/s320/_DSC3862.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I used my heat transfer marker to transfer it to a piece of green silk (I've got a BUNCH of odd scraps of this delightful green that I dyed for something or other a thousand years ago lurking about. So it keeps popping up.) I put it over handkerchief linen to give it enough body to withstand the tension in the frame, and outlined everything in black DMC cotton with stem stitch. I filled the shield with red and more black (this is all DMC cotton, I'm trying to use up my stash) and worked the cross in herringbone. The herringbone worked really well, but I didn't quite get the hang of keeping the points even till I was on the top (which was the last one I did.) It's a little more wodgy than I'd generally like. I'm not sure if I'll do it again or not. I really like the look of it but not so much the unevenness.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiobE9iCQ0tJwHD9FkdmGSqFP1Zri9AosTQrOnnwMwdLnATlnas_EwriV30MWtLT3PjcR0sOwvbnGfMKLkiK2HytxZp7vEhKiaTwAPwkDIhym6E_xLVdMmYw_sC-ac7Cfp55_MN9kLU1g/s1600/_DSC3869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOiobE9iCQ0tJwHD9FkdmGSqFP1Zri9AosTQrOnnwMwdLnATlnas_EwriV30MWtLT3PjcR0sOwvbnGfMKLkiK2HytxZp7vEhKiaTwAPwkDIhym6E_xLVdMmYw_sC-ac7Cfp55_MN9kLU1g/s320/_DSC3869.JPG" width="214" /></a>Then onto the body in more split stitch with ecru. I marked the directions that I would follow with the stitching to give the body shape with a pen before I started.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqyO3CvH2poJCS1WfhD7xkjat0JJrCuPrXl7uZ_9sYf2dMxd18DnTPsp3sKfIRirKWGCDm7c0psru-CyVy8RpJmN9l5QVRuBiZKEoi8q5eck-OUhWmw0uSpNpRZPhbHNpWf3Up-49TYyO9/s1600/_DSC3881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqyO3CvH2poJCS1WfhD7xkjat0JJrCuPrXl7uZ_9sYf2dMxd18DnTPsp3sKfIRirKWGCDm7c0psru-CyVy8RpJmN9l5QVRuBiZKEoi8q5eck-OUhWmw0uSpNpRZPhbHNpWf3Up-49TYyO9/s320/_DSC3881.JPG" width="214" /></a>Then just keep stitching! This is 4 strands of DMC floss, which working in this small of a design felt quite like cheating! I tend to fall into the trap of working everything at super tiny scale, even when a larger scale would serve my purposes just as well. With 4 strands this worked up relatively quickly, and the overall effect is very nice.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4iO57LB0qrxhjf9BAjeztbw2vllL4O8Qxz99gMqjQRccimuiygr4rS5c1xqxHklp8ehChk7u9T99wRvU9kQ8HA1J7EWC4qytMYzljXRQk0OeRq5aJAmmWq1TiosPBKLkTCHa99NVYh4-x/s1600/_DSC3890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4iO57LB0qrxhjf9BAjeztbw2vllL4O8Qxz99gMqjQRccimuiygr4rS5c1xqxHklp8ehChk7u9T99wRvU9kQ8HA1J7EWC4qytMYzljXRQk0OeRq5aJAmmWq1TiosPBKLkTCHa99NVYh4-x/s640/_DSC3890.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
With the body filled, I mounted it onto some heavy black linen for the backing and belt loop. The silk is pretty flimsy, it seemed silly to use it for the back as well as the front. Lots of pinning and some hand stitching later....<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiydQ3ZbjinayhIe_JUTy67SBEtwC0hEdEKtCjB4-kM4zQwAbqISRs-a5AMUECS5mcuEUe4jkZEgT39NYW5vy-4LtxQsKxjESCPucAqIwgWLapLmlPn9yCJDeuWQIk38kQ5ZzroBt5M_tnb/s1600/_DSC3891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiydQ3ZbjinayhIe_JUTy67SBEtwC0hEdEKtCjB4-kM4zQwAbqISRs-a5AMUECS5mcuEUe4jkZEgT39NYW5vy-4LtxQsKxjESCPucAqIwgWLapLmlPn9yCJDeuWQIk38kQ5ZzroBt5M_tnb/s400/_DSC3891.JPG" width="267" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One finished favor! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I'm really pleased with it. I think it's cute, recognizable, and versatile.Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-71106269474589688102018-10-22T05:52:00.002-07:002018-11-06T06:50:16.652-08:00Adventures in Indigo dying. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://gaiaconceptions.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/ind-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://gaiaconceptions.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/ind-06.jpg" width="224" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">True Indigo: Indigofera tinctoria</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b3/f0/6f/b3f06f0fdf5dc144ef0b8e23053c9d2e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b3/f0/6f/b3f06f0fdf5dc144ef0b8e23053c9d2e.jpg" width="205" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">Woad: <span class="LrzXr kno-fv" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; text-align: left;">Isatis tinctoria</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
I've been playing with indigo again the last few weeks, getting ready to weave some viking fabric. I'm not an avid dyer. I'm more of a persistent dabbler. I am competent with acid dyes, and happy to use them if I can't get the color of fabric I want. I really enjoy natural dying, but haven't had as much time, or really the motivation to single mindedly investigate it. I tend to dye for a specific end result. I design a garment, research what colors it might have been in at that time and place in history, then find out what dyestuffs they were using in that time and culture, and try to use those if I can get them, and if they are reliable. There are some exceptions. Lichen dyes are not<br />
sustainable, so I tend to skip to something else for purple. I don't care to work with copper and tin salts with small children in the house, so prefer to use things I can mordant with iron and alum. Dying is one of the oldest crafts in existence, and if you don't care as much about replicating the method exactly, between finds of actual dye plants in archaeological contexts, and chemical testing of dyed cloth, there's a rich historical record. If you're dying to replicate something, it's fairly easy to pick materials, because there's thousands of years of preference to note which colors are light and wash fast, and which give the clearest, brightest colors. Of this historical dyes, indigo and woad are the only reliable source for good blues. As such they're a indispensable part of the natural dyers arsenal, but the process is kind of a lot of chemistry (and has a reputation for being finicky), which I think throws a lot of potential dyers off.<br />
<br />
Most natural dyes form a chemical bond with the proteins in wool or silk either because the dystuff itself is rich in a substance that allows the color to bind to the protein (like the tannins in black walnuts), or by the intermediary intervention of a metal salt: alum, tin, copper, or iron. Indigo and Woad on the other hand make a mechanical bond with the fiber, which is why they work so well on cellulose fibers that many other dyes have trouble sticking to. You use a chemical process to shrink the dye molecule and force it out of suspension and into solution. Then you dip your material to be dyed. When you take it out, the oxygen reacts with the indigen, re enlarging the molecule and permanently tangling it in the fiber. The oxidation also turns the dye blue! The process is just really very different from other dye processes: from how you get the dye to a state where it will give a washfast color, to how you actually dye the material (no simmering here! the maximum that you dip the material is 5-10 minutes in a nearly exhausted pot. I've never gone more than five. You get darker colors by successive layers, not by longer processing.)<br />
<br />
It's a little like magic really: You pull the skeins out of the dye bath looking like dirty yellow and as the dye drains off of them they turn brilliant blue. It makes me feel a little like an enchantress every time I do it!<br />
<br />
Indigo and woad plants don't give up their color easily! You get the indigen out of the plant by a fermentation process. I don't do this part, because it's smelly, time consuming, and requires the ability to keep a big stinky vat at warm temperatures (so stinky that Queen Elizabeth banned the construction of woad dying within a certain radius of her residences). It's not impossible, but I'd rather save my time for something else, and buy the pre fermented powdered product. (Persistent Dabbler.) I've gotten this both from <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/techniques/natural-dyes.html" target="_blank">Dharma Trading</a> (who also carries the chemicals you need, and provides great customer support if you run into trouble with your dye vat) and from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheYarnTreeUSA" target="_blank">The Yarn Tree</a>, who sources theirs from a social enterprise in Bangledesh. The Yarn tree indigo didn't dissolve as completely (there were some gritty particles in the bottom of the dye bath), but did seem to give really good color.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISq7QH0EZQDuncQyERFysDEGqUrjshBgDfmqVqtp5qZvNey_vPExAE8zun4lEwfq9fvt2euXfg5LiYNbm91B70QRzqvAK142GD3Oc1VuiEu28Dsm-mdgYCAoCJl5Kb-kujZYyI5TtAybu/s1600/_DSC3895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISq7QH0EZQDuncQyERFysDEGqUrjshBgDfmqVqtp5qZvNey_vPExAE8zun4lEwfq9fvt2euXfg5LiYNbm91B70QRzqvAK142GD3Oc1VuiEu28Dsm-mdgYCAoCJl5Kb-kujZYyI5TtAybu/s320/_DSC3895.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the best reduction I've ever gotten. Probably it should<br />
go a little more yellow, it's still got a tinge of green to it.<br />
You can see the somewhat mettalic/blue slick on top of the<br />
dye here. I've not completely gotten rid of that ever. I tend to<br />
sort of sweep it off with a paper towel before dying.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After you have your indigen extracted from your plant, or your powder mixed into your dye bath, you are not ready to dye. What you have is dye particles suspended in water, what you NEED is dye particles in solution. Indigen is grumpy about going into solution. The process works best at a PH of about 10, which is usually achieved by the application of soda ash. I do this by weight, and then by watching the dye bath, but the clever well prepared dyer can also use ph test strips. Then you use Thioruea Dioxide, added a little bit at a time, with 15 minute waits between additions, to force the dye into solution. The process of forcing the dye into solution is called "reducing' the dye bath. When the dye bath is ready, it will be bright yellow or yellow green and translucent.<br />
<br />
This all sounds like it should involve test tubes and lab coats and whatnot, but what it really means is mixing a teaspoon of Thiourea Dioxide into hot water in a mason jar. Bringing your dye bath up to 125-150 degrees F. Adding half the dissolved thiorea. Stirring GENTLY (because oxygen forces the dye back out of solution). Waiting fifteen minutes: checking the color of the dyebath, and repeating pretty much interminably. With or without supplementary and unflattering muttering about the dyepot and/or the life choices that led you to dye with indigo in the first place.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYcRXlriZ1xrJczBIwgcnCbWs24YMwuCJeRL70NgC1_YLZRPsS320DWOrRT5Akwg6r_vYFRFm53JQv3j-xOW3SisFDfhPM983Ly8CzWy2OowEGg9n4-ruLcGIY5jt4vH2kMduAGXKBNJjS/s1600/_DSC3884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYcRXlriZ1xrJczBIwgcnCbWs24YMwuCJeRL70NgC1_YLZRPsS320DWOrRT5Akwg6r_vYFRFm53JQv3j-xOW3SisFDfhPM983Ly8CzWy2OowEGg9n4-ruLcGIY5jt4vH2kMduAGXKBNJjS/s320/_DSC3884.JPG" width="320" /></a>Once it finally reduces you can run test skeins (presoaked) to see how long you need to dip! Never more than 5 minutes in a fresh pot, if you leave it in too long the color won't tend to be wash fast but will "crack" and slough off, turning you blue every time you handle it. these little samples were 30 seconds, 1 minute, and 2 minutes. I ended up dying my first dip 3 minutes, and my second dip almost four, as the dye bath was starting to run down. You can REALLY see the blue oxidized skin over the dyebath here (this was foamy skin because I had let it get too close to boiling) I skim that off with a paper towel, because it's almost oily, and if you don't get rid of it, it coats the fibers on the way into the dyebath and they don't come into uniform contact with the dye (learned THAT the hard way).<br />
<br />
Then dye! It pays to be careful here, you want to stir as little as possible and allow as little dripping into the pot as possible. Basically anything that will introduce oxygen is to be avoided. I pull the skeins out, let them stream into the pot, with the tip of the skein basically touching the pot, then wring them out over a second pot, and hang them on a line to oxidize fully. When I'm totally done dying, I pour the oxidized dye from the pot I wrung the skeins into back into the indigo vat. I ALWAYS do the actual dying outside. (another thing I learned the hard way) because drips are basically unavoidable, particularly as you need to spread the wet skeins out to contact the oxygen, and the drips stain most things. (I'm typing with blue fingernails at the moment....) Also it smells like boiling rotting plants.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJWnNs0rlcONsGUpYwxBa4saOo93I6EgeiwYDhZfzJL3g1FzxViMq8LV4OAxQel4CyJhUruBno1zdxw7Gt_T85scVfwZlwos4XloelUPqGujbit1QjfQ7OmFTkqAxpW_UY58U3vOyWh5CO/s1600/_DSC3885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJWnNs0rlcONsGUpYwxBa4saOo93I6EgeiwYDhZfzJL3g1FzxViMq8LV4OAxQel4CyJhUruBno1zdxw7Gt_T85scVfwZlwos4XloelUPqGujbit1QjfQ7OmFTkqAxpW_UY58U3vOyWh5CO/s640/_DSC3885.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spread out to oxidize! straight indigo, indigo overdyed over Weld, and the bright screaming yellow is weld. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once your dye has oxidized it can be sent back in for another dip if you want darker results, or even a couple more dips. Then you have the normal post dye routine: rinse, wash with syntrhapol (I use the Dharma brand) to remove any un bonded dye (so your fabric doesn't turn you BLUE). then rinse till the water is clear, and I send it through the spin cycle to speed dying. A retayne soak can be used right after it comes off the pot, I've done it in the past. I didn't this time, I don't have enough data from using the dyed material to know if this is worth it yet.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipDoFkEexCgHGennnA88n-KNJnEn3v_-nGKc1D1LRY37sC2qjtCaVuVxKWkqkneYnQFj5vjcgk86vrPcBSIHDhY9Egkf-JrIhEfhoyClWOWQ_RtYAdm2wYmgjqFukGZDi-K6QjkIY9yGVH/s1600/_DSC3892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipDoFkEexCgHGennnA88n-KNJnEn3v_-nGKc1D1LRY37sC2qjtCaVuVxKWkqkneYnQFj5vjcgk86vrPcBSIHDhY9Egkf-JrIhEfhoyClWOWQ_RtYAdm2wYmgjqFukGZDi-K6QjkIY9yGVH/s640/_DSC3892.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished dye (mostly finished. I decided some of the indigo skeins were blotchy/lighter and sent them in for another dip. also that one noticeably yellow green skein got re-dipped)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Things I learned: you have to tie indigo skeins far more loosely than you do simmering type dyes. you're depending on rapid, even dye absorption into the fibers, and evidently ties that are loose enough for simmering dyes, are tight enough to leave light spots on indigo skeins.You can't throw the whole lot in at once like you can when you do simmering type dying. anything RESEMBLING crowding in the pot means that you get light spots. I ended up finding that two of these skeins at a time was just right. You don't want to stir in a way that folds in oxygen, but you do want to kind of, swish the skeins back and forth under the dye to make sure that the dye has penetrated the interior of the skeins. Keep some thiourea dioxide dissolved in water handy and watch the color of your dye bath if you're doing a lot of dying. if the color starts to go green? Add some thiorea, and wait ten minutes for it to settle. It's worth how much of a pain it is in consistency of color (the green means that dye is oxidizing and therefore becoming unavailable to bond with your fiber, so in addition to removing dye from the bath on the skeins, you're making some of it unavailable, so your vat start unexpectedly producing a much lighter shade.) . The good news is, even my blotchy skeins came out pretty well after another trip through the pot, so most problems are non fatal if you're erring on the side of light, rather than dark.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8cuslqbBM1ezGFVZso-ox0DaC9qx4x78RsR0y0ifreCr74VK00MXy-jbNH-suiVDOTvat2C7QW_GL9MmUT_t8Bbh0bOP1r5-GaA3qhntJ5_OdHkltvKRQoKhmHwsObVqVmuYJsAiny3_2/s1600/_DSC3902%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1132" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8cuslqbBM1ezGFVZso-ox0DaC9qx4x78RsR0y0ifreCr74VK00MXy-jbNH-suiVDOTvat2C7QW_GL9MmUT_t8Bbh0bOP1r5-GaA3qhntJ5_OdHkltvKRQoKhmHwsObVqVmuYJsAiny3_2/s320/_DSC3902%255B1%255D.jpg" width="226" /></a><br />
<br />
The best news is, once you've got your vat going once, it's more amicable to keeping going. you can store it in a sealed bucket, stir it every so often, and it will last for months! if it's getting light, add some more indigo powder mixed into water, and as it oxidizes you add more thiourea to reduce it.<br />
<br />
This is just me fuddling through the process with the aid of the <a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/information/how-to-dye.html?lnav=information.html" target="_blank">dharma dying tutorials</a>, plus troubleshooting help from the dharma staff. there are entire books devoted to indigo dying (Dharma sells a couple that look interesting), and if you want to be more than a persistent dabbler, that's probably a good investment! </div>
Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-18716023018814310572018-10-15T07:34:00.002-07:002018-11-06T06:50:38.351-08:00Cheater stockings for the late period dandyMy poor Husbeast has been wearing an old pair of my leggings, pulled down over his feet, as stockings for the last 18 months. To be fair I've been scrambling to get (and keep) him in linens, and get him enough suits made that he's not always wearing the same thing. Then there's been household uniform to make and keep up, and new fencing helmet trappings. Never a dull moment in clothing the husbeast. But I actually finished his "leisure" outfit for War of the Roses this year, and wanted him to have something comfortable to wear on his legs that wasn't so obviously out of place as lycra dancers leggings. I did a little research and consulted with the wonderful knitting laurel Angharad, who specializes in stockings. Really he needs good knit stockings of wool or silk (wool for regular wear, silk maybe for his court suit) and fancy garters. The stockings would extend up into the trunkhose and be secured there either possibly by being laced onto the leg bands (by eyelets in some of the trunkhose in patterns of fashion) or I suspect by the older method where they pointed onto the brais, or into the waistband of the trunkhose even (And thence to the doublet). the very short trunkhose would require quite long stockings, and some way of keeping them up. I don't see why the method that worked so admirably for cloth hose wouldn't work here as well.<br />
<br />
More research later. For now I just need to cover his nether limbs in a seemly fashion for this season. (I took a class about calculating patterns for knit hose this summer, SUPER EXCITING, and I hope to knit him a proper pair over the winter)<br />
<br />
I will note that cloth stockings were worn by the lower to middle classes still at the time when his persona was living by the sword. However I have a couple quibbles about those. the first being I think they would have been on the low class end of how I clothe him. which is good quality clothing with few flashes of fancy: Things he might have picked up in his travels or as prizes/plunder. The other problem is his legs. When the Husbeast squats, his thigh goes from about 22 inches to about 27..... This has resulted in a lot of drama with the leg bands of his trunkhose, and I have my doubts about the ability of bias cut cloth to keep up with that kind of increase. My final decision was to make sewn stockings from machine knit material as a stopgap. Not, to be sure, accurate, but better by a long shot than what he has now. Especially if accessorized with good garters! I consulted the wonderful <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2015/01/tutorial-pattern-making-your-own-seamed-stockings/" target="_blank">Dreamstress</a> for method and pattern, since I remembered her doing it for the historical sew fortnightly. What she was doing was different, but gave me an idea of what the foot pattern should look like at least. Then I simply cut a long rectangle of knit fabric I had lying about, had the husbeast stand on one end and hold the other, and started pinning. There was a lot of pinning. Then I basted all the pinned bits so he could get it off without stabbing himself, and had him hold the long leftover bit up so I could mark a point at the top that could be pointed onto either brais or the waistband of his trunkhose. Having made a few pairs of cloth hose came in really handy here, because I had some idea of what the top edges should look like to be comfortable and practical.<br />
<br />
I marked all the edges of the basting, took the stitches out, and voila: one 3d leg rendered into 2d. Now I had to make more decisions. I decided to make a scant quarter inch seam allowance, as I would be sewing these with either stepped zigzag, or the serger. I cut around the drawn lines at that distance, then transferred the pattern to paper. At the same time that i did this, I made the heel point symetrical, although I left the foot shaped left/right. I also chose to make the foot portion separate from the leg, rather than leaving a giant dart that would have to be trimmed off. this allows for more creative arrangement of the pattern onto fabric as well.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYU7FsSxFnEGrcDRU4JfBjuOaXESjww1eZD_HPaWH3y5qaMWsGjVx9ltg3J9xPnnaYnL_wMUiwco8QGdla2aqtddmLfPuBvOQ3nNdgR5T4b8uaXOpku2_IFdh03x1pfjBldeOZ2UrX2NX/s1600/_DSC3898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYU7FsSxFnEGrcDRU4JfBjuOaXESjww1eZD_HPaWH3y5qaMWsGjVx9ltg3J9xPnnaYnL_wMUiwco8QGdla2aqtddmLfPuBvOQ3nNdgR5T4b8uaXOpku2_IFdh03x1pfjBldeOZ2UrX2NX/s640/_DSC3898.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">it's a weird looking pattern. The () is where the foot attaches to the calf. So left to right on the pattern you have: the heel flap, the bottom of the right foot, the top of the right foot, then the leg, with the pointy bit being the part for pointing into his waistband. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With a good pattern in hand, I cut the second hose from the same scrap knit, and sewed them up. i didn't have light thread in my serger, so I used a stepped zig zag on my standard machine, being careful to not stretch the fabric out as I sewed. this is one area where I'm a strong proponent of lots of pins. I faced the top edge with knit, interfacing the point with handkerchief linen so it would hold up to pointing. I top stitched the edge with a zig zag, and the point with a straight stitch, and worked eyelets in the point. Voila, a stocking. Repeat and you have a pair!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzTLnW2d0UDY50slailv0V6Z2t6jv7Sr-cqB58QPe51-Uh9KEflBXU58a9RqyQCaGBYiu6GvRLmidLt9vzjl21_zSkMNmTeZA6eLSlWXsgNQ03AuhAN_p2s2tCLfihqfT1LshC6m5ctAf/s1600/Giovanni_Battista_Moroni_008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="737" data-original-width="625" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzTLnW2d0UDY50slailv0V6Z2t6jv7Sr-cqB58QPe51-Uh9KEflBXU58a9RqyQCaGBYiu6GvRLmidLt9vzjl21_zSkMNmTeZA6eLSlWXsgNQ03AuhAN_p2s2tCLfihqfT1LshC6m5ctAf/s320/Giovanni_Battista_Moroni_008.jpg" width="271" /></a><br />
With this kind of stockings, he needed garters, to keep them from continually sliding down the leg <br />
and exerting a lot of pressure on the attachment point. The garters also keep the stocking sleek over the lower leg, adequately displaying the manly calf of the wearer. Well turned calves were MUCH in style, even to the extent that men sometimes resorted to padding to obtain a more pleasing proportion. Small projects like this are why I keep a silk scrap stash. I decided (somewhat uncharitably probably) that these garters were a gift from me, his beloved, and therefore should be in my colors. (right? Right?) I also HAPPENED to have a scrap of violent green silk lurking around..... Fortuitous really. I sewed these by machine, then worked over the edges in whip stitch to firm them up a little and give them some grip. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ul-xBv4KAYuq7xrCxUzXMlCmNOBWykrvdmssZyrnP5GnImUl-F3RV4R-6GGxlPmdVdgiUBRlk7vkuJaUp_4RzbiyoTMjneNgwJJyVFHd8QPDwyyvG6C2Dx7FUWsx3PzTko-Eh21JgqwJ/s1600/_DSC3899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ul-xBv4KAYuq7xrCxUzXMlCmNOBWykrvdmssZyrnP5GnImUl-F3RV4R-6GGxlPmdVdgiUBRlk7vkuJaUp_4RzbiyoTMjneNgwJJyVFHd8QPDwyyvG6C2Dx7FUWsx3PzTko-Eh21JgqwJ/s320/_DSC3899.JPG" width="320" /></a>Instead of tassels I made a little yellow silk needle lace edging on these, not a lot, just a row of loops worked out of tight blanket stitch to give the end a little pop. it's not my best work ever, but not terrible for a first attempt. Even though these are silk satin, which would NOT be my first choice (slippery) they stay tied just fine. Of course I'd like to make him several more pairs (maybe one with those fabulous silver tassels??) it's actually a really effective way to work on needle lace, because it's a small enough bit that you don't make yourself crazy with frustration!<br />
<br />
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9hwDy1PDfCjvbJr9u3vET5iKzGQ0V8fcNeWWyxwxHWvqSQI_IBzkfx2TAxgUwvHS3-djPvYOh_u3VlbbIAqyp2IeCeFwSU9Gnf8ANstA8v6WNvftetR6NlbW4ZhoY_tHsQlqVs_Kk1Tv/s1600/2018-10-01+15_13_12-Matt+Miklacic.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="495" data-original-width="294" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo9hwDy1PDfCjvbJr9u3vET5iKzGQ0V8fcNeWWyxwxHWvqSQI_IBzkfx2TAxgUwvHS3-djPvYOh_u3VlbbIAqyp2IeCeFwSU9Gnf8ANstA8v6WNvftetR6NlbW4ZhoY_tHsQlqVs_Kk1Tv/s640/2018-10-01+15_13_12-Matt+Miklacic.png" width="379" /></a>Of course I'm getting around to posting this four months later (that being the soonest I got a picture of him wearing them) which means that I can update with how these worked. I haven't gotten to the wool ones yet, but the cotton pair have been really sucessful. He points them to the waistband of his trunkhose, and they look about a thousand times better than the old spandex leggings, and are less hot since they don't come up over the waist. I'm still hoping to knit him couple "proper" pairs, but for now, these are working out ok. He doesn't even seem to mind the violent green garters! (and yes, better shoes are on the wishlist for him. but getting anything in 14 EEEE is difficult. I think we're going to end up having to go full custom which is $$$$) </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-5716087850706266752018-10-01T11:59:00.000-07:002018-10-07T07:20:37.656-07:00The Queen's Gift<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNrUy89PQ61MdBVoHfVnnTY9-JegbO0Tuy481YvDWQT7QLPNXvQ5iWawQLwxZuCmtgVrw-6zKy7_AKVEUE6TqQye2E96YZuQ-w8QN_5CJqsIGPR3ecQugs4Od9jsqPHAFlceAm55BcnqxQ/s1600/8f38053474fe7548911f2433cc5c8316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="267" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNrUy89PQ61MdBVoHfVnnTY9-JegbO0Tuy481YvDWQT7QLPNXvQ5iWawQLwxZuCmtgVrw-6zKy7_AKVEUE6TqQye2E96YZuQ-w8QN_5CJqsIGPR3ecQugs4Od9jsqPHAFlceAm55BcnqxQ/s320/8f38053474fe7548911f2433cc5c8316.jpg" width="213" /></a>This spring I was infected with a case of helium hand, and voluneered to make the queens gift for my embroider's guild. The queens gift is given by the keepers of Athena's Thimble to each queen around the time she steps down, as a tribute to her and her service. I had a glorious and terrible idea for something the at the time princess might like, and therefore, under the influence of caffeine and terrible ideas, raised my hand.<br />
<br />
I've long been inspired by this lovely bog dress: the original was woven in a contiguous tube and fastened at the shoulder by brooches. it looks a lot like a roman chiton, which frequently had decorative bands at both the folded hem and the bottom hem. I had the thought of adding wide embroidered bands at the hems. The queen's favor is based on a pictish rune stone, so there was a ready source of designs. I decided I wanted to showcase the wide variety of pictish beasties on the rune stones in the pattern, a wide trim at the bottom hem, and a narrower band across the breast featuring the princess's two tailed mermaids at the center front and back, and some celtic knotwork roses symbolizing her status as a lady of the rose.<br />
<br />
First I had to choose a fabric and techniques. The original gown is in wool, and I wanted to use wool for this one, but light enough that she could wear it in the summer. I also wanted to use purple, which was a color reserved for royalty in ancient Ireland (according to ye ancient irish bard of incredible helpfulness, Aife, who was my adviser in all matters ancient ireland for this entire project, and saved me innumerable hours of research and dead ends. ) I decided on a summer weight, almost sheer wool and that I could dye to get the correct color. Although Lichen dying has been a long time interest of mine, a little research showed it to be problematic. Aside from the fact that lichen dyes are notoriously difficult to get light fast, there is the problem with sustainability. It's generally recommended that lichen dying only be used for small projects or samples, because harvesting destroys the plant, which does not regenerate. I decided that I could use acid dyes to achieve the color I wanted. The fabric, a white wool crepe, was donated by a very generous patron.<br />
<br />
I decided to use mounted bands of embroidery, worked in wool on lightweight linen, both to make working the embroidery more portable and convenient, and to hide the messy backside of the work. The additional benefit is that HRH can transfer the bands to another garment if she should so wish.<br />
<br />
Rune stones of all sorts have been a long time fascination of mine, so it was fun to have an excuse to look at a lot of them. I spent a very enjoyable afternoon stalking museum collections and saving images, I came up with a large number of different wonderful patterns and beasts. In fact the most difficult part was deciding which ones to leave off.<br />
<br />
I drew my chosen desings on a long strip of butchers paper, 7.5 inches wide, by 96 inches long. I centered a rose with a celtic knot detail at the four quarters, and bracketed it with sea serpents front and back. Then positioned a pair of animals in each space. Some of the animals had to be slightly altered to fit the space, particularly the gryphon: who was squashed into a long narrow border space, and the merhorses: which were entwined vertically, not horizontally. I then drew on the back of the paper with a<a href="https://www.dharmatrading.com/transfers/sulky-iron-on-transfer-pens.html?lnav=transfers.html" target="_blank"> heat transfer marker</a>. This was my first time using this method of transfer, and I'm very pleased with it for this kind of work, although the line is fairly fat, so it's not a one size fits all solution. Working with it is a lot like working with the metallic paint pens, where you shake to mix the ink, then depress the tip to start the flow. I found it had the same weakness as those pens, after a while of use the tip starts to dry up, or the ink to separate again, so you have to occasionally shake the pen up and re-depress the tip to keep the ink flowing well. After i did the first transfer, I could tell where the pen had gotten a little dry because it didn't transfer as darkly. I ended up gong over the lighter areas with my fine tip sharpie to get clearer lines. The second transfer I worked I watched to be sure the ink was going on thickly enough, and shook/re inked the tip as necessary, and got very even dark transfer lines.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc31uMe3wCZUB7wyCb-myLeqxlP1u4LDr_c1UgUEF9kH6tx3_Os6TS8CT2Xvku4zZjLe4KQW78AM3tkHsXxhDu55BXNEtBhVUOywnz6GmkiL3p4sO85hiJiFu_56JUdb4jXYphuFiCMaoV/s1600/_DSC3835%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="1600" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc31uMe3wCZUB7wyCb-myLeqxlP1u4LDr_c1UgUEF9kH6tx3_Os6TS8CT2Xvku4zZjLe4KQW78AM3tkHsXxhDu55BXNEtBhVUOywnz6GmkiL3p4sO85hiJiFu_56JUdb4jXYphuFiCMaoV/s640/_DSC3835%255B1%255D.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrc0xt7jp6Y9_0ZJufBM2JEclKxGk68sEnvmuS3nKryzh5QimN32iqLn31ZjaeyRKW_f3UA_LhCLpIltQ5X30a-KvC161umEPFRVH8PATPMAl38C_FMYyFAX5M2x244ZdOJQ-CZ2MKY2Qv/s1600/_DSC3836%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="408" data-original-width="1600" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrc0xt7jp6Y9_0ZJufBM2JEclKxGk68sEnvmuS3nKryzh5QimN32iqLn31ZjaeyRKW_f3UA_LhCLpIltQ5X30a-KvC161umEPFRVH8PATPMAl38C_FMYyFAX5M2x244ZdOJQ-CZ2MKY2Qv/s640/_DSC3836%255B1%255D.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I had ordered silver thread for the detail work, and appleton's crewel wool for the bodies. I've used appleton's before and it's my favorite. very fine, very uniform. I worked the outlines in stem stitch in charcoal, which i thought would give a slightly softer look than true black, then mounted the embroidery in a hoop and started the long process of the bayuex stitch filling.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIFQdsDmEmA6bJePzXueZCekbQNc3bYxKjqNpvKgo7jo1CKCFMARyNbv5AXBpgq7DY-oZmKStZ3eKajfq8hFAClGMyKEy1xF0w14WfXLYcpLXIlywRF4x0OQLdfUyPnTzlt9tJRGBtGzqL/s1600/_DSC3807%255B1%255D.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1089" data-original-width="1600" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIFQdsDmEmA6bJePzXueZCekbQNc3bYxKjqNpvKgo7jo1CKCFMARyNbv5AXBpgq7DY-oZmKStZ3eKajfq8hFAClGMyKEy1xF0w14WfXLYcpLXIlywRF4x0OQLdfUyPnTzlt9tJRGBtGzqL/s320/_DSC3807%255B1%255D.jpg" width="320" /></a>I started with the roses which I did not do in bayuex totally. I worked the edges in stem, as seen in small areas on the bayeux tapestry. Then filled the petals interior with satin stitch, and held it down with the silver metallic couched down with silk thread. I'm really liking working with better metallic thread. it's still a giant pain, but it's considerably less painful than the cheap stuff. This from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/204807407/goldsilver-metallic-thread-5-skeins-set?ref=shop_home_active_4" target="_blank">Kyoto Embroidery</a> is reasonably priced, and comes from japan in a lot of weights and colors.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEEzUnKMlEipUMuW-yKG2NEgJGx2V88tuK1FXjSCTvtfTsQ9Ge2UIlg2I0k23qRYJs3tsmPEj5lxqVHBaL5qYkc1Bk0iSle24MrqH78M-ikyfFqmKAkjTBTMWqU25ahMuft0xdZUDvnjC8/s1600/_DSC3809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEEzUnKMlEipUMuW-yKG2NEgJGx2V88tuK1FXjSCTvtfTsQ9Ge2UIlg2I0k23qRYJs3tsmPEj5lxqVHBaL5qYkc1Bk0iSle24MrqH78M-ikyfFqmKAkjTBTMWqU25ahMuft0xdZUDvnjC8/s320/_DSC3809.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Then I did the bracketing sea serpents, working the bellies in bayeux, and then filling the backs with satin and couching it down with a lattice.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSgtX23_heP1XX9dlevo_1qgEHmjRSfv9aAYibGYFfWEnUejF33e4-ddZ-OmaHk370kACjhYGgOalM_RFZ01Jdd8w2m1VnSiIEC2mAA-_a8NF7uyHKkMf6o5-kNxpVocNo9hA3uUXZiVKg/s1600/_DSC3811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSgtX23_heP1XX9dlevo_1qgEHmjRSfv9aAYibGYFfWEnUejF33e4-ddZ-OmaHk370kACjhYGgOalM_RFZ01Jdd8w2m1VnSiIEC2mAA-_a8NF7uyHKkMf6o5-kNxpVocNo9hA3uUXZiVKg/s320/_DSC3811.JPG" width="320" /></a>Then it was on to the rest of the animals. First filling in the accent or shading areas, very small or wiggly areas with stem stitch, and blocks with more bayux (antlers are stem. colored areas are bayeux. the shading on the legs/belly was achieved by alternating threads of black and brown before couching over it with brown.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Ko-0kCkerF2ka3gF_puJDuiip-VYMXoC7d7mXWiN3q1rElJSiOsagbWTeuV55HeNjDGWpV3sH7v5lbgGrzEjL0TOHgmfPHg1BDnM55xFsHgKG-bO5N0S-HJIMLQ96Ls0uRZv6VMDPBA2/s1600/_DSC3815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Ko-0kCkerF2ka3gF_puJDuiip-VYMXoC7d7mXWiN3q1rElJSiOsagbWTeuV55HeNjDGWpV3sH7v5lbgGrzEjL0TOHgmfPHg1BDnM55xFsHgKG-bO5N0S-HJIMLQ96Ls0uRZv6VMDPBA2/s320/_DSC3815.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Then filling in the background color<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYm2QPX4EsNcJZIoBA6p3VvQNnILJzHsDi_wA_qzY5REiHT7aUOSJyN2wCFGSGVTpKBe-1l2-RPwYYbDZYizGYX2C_zQTI6aMcQt_dog5eZNr9hSjrvxraT2tULePAQC9BMHJH6cnw5lWT/s1600/_DSC3817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYm2QPX4EsNcJZIoBA6p3VvQNnILJzHsDi_wA_qzY5REiHT7aUOSJyN2wCFGSGVTpKBe-1l2-RPwYYbDZYizGYX2C_zQTI6aMcQt_dog5eZNr9hSjrvxraT2tULePAQC9BMHJH6cnw5lWT/s320/_DSC3817.JPG" width="320" /></a>Then repeat with the next animal.....<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKXhqmyBPFiBh8_Xhl8pBZnqJPC_suQA8HtgPeREV47g0GCkeTeWkZjC32jiGiMeveD1Rh1KoxTJBmkXtccAyR3HbIkysvTPMjSkzwprEzExhPDskE0amyzAL-E9ViypPVZUqtlKjYCnF-/s1600/_DSC3820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKXhqmyBPFiBh8_Xhl8pBZnqJPC_suQA8HtgPeREV47g0GCkeTeWkZjC32jiGiMeveD1Rh1KoxTJBmkXtccAyR3HbIkysvTPMjSkzwprEzExhPDskE0amyzAL-E9ViypPVZUqtlKjYCnF-/s320/_DSC3820.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
I had lots of help from his royal puttyness, in a supervisory and thread warming role......<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJRhy6PlgGxfiaDw1AFfSGrE-BW_Fv_rhBknVm1h1FyrXGYi4NG7Hg5hmvmcGHkB3ErsmukEaePzgAKPLwdOT6SVjXxm1keA9dA0jK8Yufm8_ACPez_qXhEk84cYSBbwZqe5JjuQf0Ay3F/s1600/_DSC3821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="1600" height="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJRhy6PlgGxfiaDw1AFfSGrE-BW_Fv_rhBknVm1h1FyrXGYi4NG7Hg5hmvmcGHkB3ErsmukEaePzgAKPLwdOT6SVjXxm1keA9dA0jK8Yufm8_ACPez_qXhEk84cYSBbwZqe5JjuQf0Ay3F/s640/_DSC3821.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally finished! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJRpX2y9DqIOfEsp2FtTy5eLxwOxLFO8E60jcUahhIBNq4-7jhFWI_L8Ljz6pGaL3zzyMflCPL9MumG1logYniiE-w5-JxpGc5k3-tuu0pstWnRo0JM6fJ9S9YvJzzDprH7adcMkGpYlQP/s1600/_DSC3818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJRpX2y9DqIOfEsp2FtTy5eLxwOxLFO8E60jcUahhIBNq4-7jhFWI_L8Ljz6pGaL3zzyMflCPL9MumG1logYniiE-w5-JxpGc5k3-tuu0pstWnRo0JM6fJ9S9YvJzzDprH7adcMkGpYlQP/s320/_DSC3818.JPG" width="320" /></a>With the hem done, I scoured the white wool crepe with dharma textile detergent (a synthrapol alternative) and got out my patent pending dying rig for large batches: a large steel garbage can, that I put on my big outdoor propane burner. I have an old shovel handle that's a perfect stirring device. I got lucky with this dye job: I was rushing, trying to watch the kids and work, and had a head cold when I did this. I made a paste with the dye powder and water, stirred in more water slowly, but neglected to strain this mixture into the dye pot. Just, dumped it in then added presoaked fabric. When I stirred? little clumps of dye all over the fabric. It hadn't all dissolved. I spent the next half an hour elbow deep in the scalding water, scrubbing little spots of undisolved dye so they'd dissolve in the hot water. Between that, and the glauber's salt I added to keep it level, amazingly the dye job is perfectly even. However, not at ALL the color I was expecting out of "purple haze." thankfully, while it's not Lichen purple, it is (as pointed out to me by BestLaurel when I panic messaged her) shoo in for tyrean purple, and very pretty. I called it a happy accident and went with it.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBoGLRqFUEEYeo40ox8BTc_XU5sFTSsLc4-N5eyYJGEaLF0_5Fe4Bxnolzc4CSWnIGSjIgqUAg4lXE-i7bzLOfvkVVk99hYQD-NWFAfJegFPBlZh740vIu76FFfdIuQP6mMCR3hyDUVoDB/s1600/_DSC3824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBoGLRqFUEEYeo40ox8BTc_XU5sFTSsLc4-N5eyYJGEaLF0_5Fe4Bxnolzc4CSWnIGSjIgqUAg4lXE-i7bzLOfvkVVk99hYQD-NWFAfJegFPBlZh740vIu76FFfdIuQP6mMCR3hyDUVoDB/s320/_DSC3824.JPG" width="320" /></a>thankfully the bog dress is just a tube, so it's a matter of sewing rectangles together with a reversible seam (in this case flat felled). I felt rather badly for mounting this much work on a machine sewn dress, but at this point I was rapidly approaching deadline and slightly panicked, so I swallowed my scruples and moved on to mounting the hem. FirstI pinned the SNOT out of it, and machine sewed it to the bottom edge of the dress. Because my slate frame was occupied I did this on a round frame, and it DID allow the fabric to pucker a little. Lesson learned, next time just suck it up and take the other project off the slate frame (or you know, buy a second slate frame??) You just don't get as even of tension on larger projects on the circular cross stitch frames, and they don't grip evenly if you're expecting them to grip over bumpy areas (like previously embroidered figures).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA__8LKgt79cRTczUDa8nZVQqk9x0Vn_LKh7I6x-C3YkrxfnUmNt6MJt7dQ_vXRD_xxbc7cEF7qq13mzkHAYlbFrPVX_E7cY4f2sHbx0pPYZslk-mJTv96_IqiUdR3Pstk8_xMTlERXM21/s1600/_DSC3825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA__8LKgt79cRTczUDa8nZVQqk9x0Vn_LKh7I6x-C3YkrxfnUmNt6MJt7dQ_vXRD_xxbc7cEF7qq13mzkHAYlbFrPVX_E7cY4f2sHbx0pPYZslk-mJTv96_IqiUdR3Pstk8_xMTlERXM21/s320/_DSC3825.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
then flip it up, and more pinning! Crepe is stupidly stretchy, and doesn't want to stay put)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHrHBAzaxeP0TKytdtizeejHn5zZACmXvDYu3YNA-cvcFj3xoJYG_22b-uUOPnp1KHvf_2DAeEUX_L73LUIUs1yohkr5To7qy__NYbLDTm9jrefzo0zFo-GdgbdoSbfGnWSdMKrDoMkrzJ/s1600/_DSC3828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHrHBAzaxeP0TKytdtizeejHn5zZACmXvDYu3YNA-cvcFj3xoJYG_22b-uUOPnp1KHvf_2DAeEUX_L73LUIUs1yohkr5To7qy__NYbLDTm9jrefzo0zFo-GdgbdoSbfGnWSdMKrDoMkrzJ/s320/_DSC3828.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I worked over the edges with couched silver thread. This thread comes in skeins, and I've found that toilet paper rolls, or better yet, sections of stiffer paper towel tubes, work great to wind them onto. It's big enough in diameter that the thread doesn't get kinks, and you can make a slit in the end to catch the thread, because metallic is SUPER springing and will basically leap off the roll. then I bound the top edge with a strip of blue, and sewed the edge of that down with couched silver. At this point I called it done enough, because I wasn't sure if I started the mermaid on the top, I would be able to finish it before the event.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhInaVAXM7El7A-aB6XsC0jMgBXBRCAZVZ93e25NfUjbPsgzCYGHLW0MKpeOOy2_4WlPhBNq4wumlaeLWcQFIGSp1sj-Yoqfo9elT-VV6D7ru-wHJrfoSvWh4mqqBEssfgOTzqR67Zi1bUB/s1600/_DSC3844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="1600" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhInaVAXM7El7A-aB6XsC0jMgBXBRCAZVZ93e25NfUjbPsgzCYGHLW0MKpeOOy2_4WlPhBNq4wumlaeLWcQFIGSp1sj-Yoqfo9elT-VV6D7ru-wHJrfoSvWh4mqqBEssfgOTzqR67Zi1bUB/s640/_DSC3844.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBea-MqX4ljNedQAbCJWqiCvLk84KMbvTYUTY96JHAclWe-qNi3nFnAunSo6a_XSNi1sA2W1Z5Wn__iazstWJhRRfLoodOTl1vwS0zd_JMQElbbfg0OLjE-hn93v3Bz4PGRlH9iyORNHFg/s1600/_DSC3841.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="1600" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBea-MqX4ljNedQAbCJWqiCvLk84KMbvTYUTY96JHAclWe-qNi3nFnAunSo6a_XSNi1sA2W1Z5Wn__iazstWJhRRfLoodOTl1vwS0zd_JMQElbbfg0OLjE-hn93v3Bz4PGRlH9iyORNHFg/s640/_DSC3841.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0IKun_RJckZcI7JPxnD3ZKB9_OPrKGnShFarZV-1bbleA2fNjhhmIU8CvUliMZ8dV4BgjFHJal2LxTKo3BNEu6ujNcqJZJ9TuG_r3anrlzeowtGI6nIeqQZ28RC6RGmV1Xykj6MQMIPZ/s1600/_DSC3838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0IKun_RJckZcI7JPxnD3ZKB9_OPrKGnShFarZV-1bbleA2fNjhhmIU8CvUliMZ8dV4BgjFHJal2LxTKo3BNEu6ujNcqJZJ9TuG_r3anrlzeowtGI6nIeqQZ28RC6RGmV1Xykj6MQMIPZ/s640/_DSC3838.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front, the mermaid will be centered on the fold down portion, with a pair of<br />
crescent moon and V rods. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRz_QtZU-gZd-hmscPm55yZ5qkkMeNRA1G-IJpvbJ7vH8bSzeQOJ2t7IG8ozKXLghxPBu0TMdUB2FAftJOIzV6T4BcfKkWibOXgaDCcInkNTappPpmKYM0Shifv17DF7gri_ovEP2ScCHV/s1600/_DSC3839.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRz_QtZU-gZd-hmscPm55yZ5qkkMeNRA1G-IJpvbJ7vH8bSzeQOJ2t7IG8ozKXLghxPBu0TMdUB2FAftJOIzV6T4BcfKkWibOXgaDCcInkNTappPpmKYM0Shifv17DF7gri_ovEP2ScCHV/s640/_DSC3839.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYI126QuUyMt5TnWdAgkI26tZPtMBraT8_lo0CJ8UB7gtOTcKhF7dVXqwIFmk38cnVkVq4N1pIx6rBdSmyUkgqPKbsqOUiUpy8D1in63YVlH_qxjeeXJ3c5eBDlxUemsYTMvrd_PsLekY/s1600/_DSC3840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYI126QuUyMt5TnWdAgkI26tZPtMBraT8_lo0CJ8UB7gtOTcKhF7dVXqwIFmk38cnVkVq4N1pIx6rBdSmyUkgqPKbsqOUiUpy8D1in63YVlH_qxjeeXJ3c5eBDlxUemsYTMvrd_PsLekY/s640/_DSC3840.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I was really pleased to be able to do this for the guild and for the queen! She really liked it as it was, but I did end up bringing it home to finish putting the mermaid on the front. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDiTnpi8ngt2BgpNByis67wnIcjwDzrG85TIdDJhpqttbKQHYIVugKEA4DUWDeQxY_qhizsRHlnIR3G4NUXONJg12-2vUBqmP2ytZNBOc77NHXLfTCcVHxAQTj0lCZtkZGs0fFg3hjuFF/s1600/42857480_10156881599309928_549999750850543616_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSDiTnpi8ngt2BgpNByis67wnIcjwDzrG85TIdDJhpqttbKQHYIVugKEA4DUWDeQxY_qhizsRHlnIR3G4NUXONJg12-2vUBqmP2ytZNBOc77NHXLfTCcVHxAQTj0lCZtkZGs0fFg3hjuFF/s640/42857480_10156881599309928_549999750850543616_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The deputy guildmistress and I present the gift in court. Photo Credit Cataline la Broderesse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1BHxVR4z1g6Dv8pF0Y911yQ8aYuvoHEZqXnbJk6wTz3JmAkbUjiqVPpyqE76DD6UbrwC5dDowHz7s3uMI7eQ10u7jwDCRxPXCfsWcPyj1BYgWfdWClx6echUDCTt257yYpLdaF1H-z6m/s1600/42885031_10156881599494928_5965066149388353536_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC1BHxVR4z1g6Dv8pF0Y911yQ8aYuvoHEZqXnbJk6wTz3JmAkbUjiqVPpyqE76DD6UbrwC5dDowHz7s3uMI7eQ10u7jwDCRxPXCfsWcPyj1BYgWfdWClx6echUDCTt257yYpLdaF1H-z6m/s640/42885031_10156881599494928_5965066149388353536_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The best thing is having something you made make someone else happy! (Photo credit Cataline La Broderesse) </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-15575894307974711942018-04-19T13:31:00.002-07:002018-11-06T06:51:10.129-08:00Spanish Traveling cloak (or the cloak of poor choices)I decided in January that this was going to be the year when I finally entered SCA arts and sciences competitions, and to pursue that goal, I was FINALLY going to work on some more difficult fleece to garment projects. I've had a few of them lurking half researched in the corners of notebooks for a few years now. I tend to be so buried in Needs sewing, that i don't get around to doing projects that force me to work to my capacity, stretch my skills and grow as an artisan. I've been doing that in a small way, by learning new embroidery things for Athena's thimble, and it's been very satisfying, but I wanted to do it with more than embroidery, which kind of necessarily means larger scale projects. Competing gives me an excuse for that.<br />
<br />
The first of these projects was my planned winter project for this year, a hand woven, hand embroidered hooded cloak for the husbeast to wear at chilly events like 100 minutes. My plan was to make as exact of a reproduction as possible of this "spanish style" cloak in the Germanisches National Museum.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCUXA_iuQT3-GRV9OlENbdpvfaIZs6RryhQNyM67mKDjLwzCPtblqgRetg2JsYIRJu6cx-Ptm1X9DLqUwl8J_Wc7K7QZ58nUGQqJNaMyn2Cwv-5ijPKXKHnuG2uY5HoYoUxNg__Gp0uTQ8/s1600/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="800" height="544" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCUXA_iuQT3-GRV9OlENbdpvfaIZs6RryhQNyM67mKDjLwzCPtblqgRetg2JsYIRJu6cx-Ptm1X9DLqUwl8J_Wc7K7QZ58nUGQqJNaMyn2Cwv-5ijPKXKHnuG2uY5HoYoUxNg__Gp0uTQ8/s640/image.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
This cloak is white twill wool, heavily fulled, embroidered with couched work in brown wool, and decorated with tassels and "bobbles" on the hood. Because white isn't a really PRACTICAL color for a cloak at events that may be say, muddy, I decided to do mine in natural brown wool with madder dyed accents.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxSYXrQfW1gVCH9bb0zXkKcLoOyPYFJPtjk4al7g7oDl4rKSkARHB6RHNJZQwqHnfD3fvxOg0fUg4kD08IElgo9BGPaxXiU9ljHFD7bXmlTbV58O-5nUcwep2CFEQO0TdDEWnbEgAVDQm_/s1600/30714053_10156492017294928_4817456316735815680_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="640" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxSYXrQfW1gVCH9bb0zXkKcLoOyPYFJPtjk4al7g7oDl4rKSkARHB6RHNJZQwqHnfD3fvxOg0fUg4kD08IElgo9BGPaxXiU9ljHFD7bXmlTbV58O-5nUcwep2CFEQO0TdDEWnbEgAVDQm_/s640/30714053_10156492017294928_4817456316735815680_n.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
<br />
Because I started it later than I wanted to and only had 6 weeks to work on it before the competition, I finished this with scaled back embroideries for entry into Keepers of the Central Flame, an East Kingdom arts and sciences competition that was hosted by my home barony, concordia of the snows. For that I did a VERY comprehensive write up of my research and the process. So if you want to read a 20 page research paper about it, Here's a <a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cFq1CYQvLkLrMqbRpqo5hbFDn5dxXxGeFoo99TRLCTs/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">linky</a>! I'm hoping to finish the embroideries and enter it in the display at pennsic this summer, so keep your eyes open for "finished" pictures of the husbeast modeling it! Here's a bunch of the process photos and pictures of my display for your enjoyment. this was a real stretch project and I learned a lot. I can't WAIT to take what I've learned and start something new!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjzBrEEh2w4dKqoTCJdBA-L0cjhRAoW9hA3sYcEooEwCkRLaHBNlfNkMjgIkVGreEOu1qQ39896s6TxBYzaXTa6kltk-YrUYWT_rsTWyX-wFZJMrAgyLaV9ZCGH30uAJdQoMDJ-HjZK0xD/s1600/DSC_3240%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjzBrEEh2w4dKqoTCJdBA-L0cjhRAoW9hA3sYcEooEwCkRLaHBNlfNkMjgIkVGreEOu1qQ39896s6TxBYzaXTa6kltk-YrUYWT_rsTWyX-wFZJMrAgyLaV9ZCGH30uAJdQoMDJ-HjZK0xD/s640/DSC_3240%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">weaving in progress, you can see my measuring tool pinned to the left selvedge, just a strip of fabric a yard long that helps me keep track of larger projects.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVG-23KSGk9EKQSIsp5IYSKPDHvIfRlEn7LSjIIB9GBRIRs7RZCQ9b9KRIAUdsD0sDfrCODpExpK3mJJMrW6HcdfIVsBDrti4KgSRnJoqwCOkVtUgGD40Hw1M88nBKhwqnktHu-qayLKX/s1600/DSC_3242%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVG-23KSGk9EKQSIsp5IYSKPDHvIfRlEn7LSjIIB9GBRIRs7RZCQ9b9KRIAUdsD0sDfrCODpExpK3mJJMrW6HcdfIVsBDrti4KgSRnJoqwCOkVtUgGD40Hw1M88nBKhwqnktHu-qayLKX/s640/DSC_3242%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entire project may be hell, but that's a fine straight selvedge!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVlPk5JhOhiMOZuQUtm2KkV67qRRFO7yjpLFaAn2qk7HNi7Bk6Ox6B1OM1mK570cfEo-wgL0oRqqixy7B6Rq5LaRNB_A8xMTG1wSIIVQ9fiqH5OipS9hk9fdoT3_gA0rL3gRvPIRyrYH1k/s1600/_DSC3292%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVlPk5JhOhiMOZuQUtm2KkV67qRRFO7yjpLFaAn2qk7HNi7Bk6Ox6B1OM1mK570cfEo-wgL0oRqqixy7B6Rq5LaRNB_A8xMTG1wSIIVQ9fiqH5OipS9hk9fdoT3_gA0rL3gRvPIRyrYH1k/s640/_DSC3292%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut from the loom, but not yet fulled.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBpMjZwq1UIwbRcOjAzNrY-2dyMX28J7wca4SuQelRX4YjF9hiBgKk8Qg19MIpUsG1RBUYX-bULK17I6DaUOSAkJYE7bNw_rzxeGH9wPmSRzsPsl3p0C_ETnMlaKRO37Yn7T0G45NWMbfA/s1600/_DSC3298%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBpMjZwq1UIwbRcOjAzNrY-2dyMX28J7wca4SuQelRX4YjF9hiBgKk8Qg19MIpUsG1RBUYX-bULK17I6DaUOSAkJYE7bNw_rzxeGH9wPmSRzsPsl3p0C_ETnMlaKRO37Yn7T0G45NWMbfA/s640/_DSC3298%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fulled down, I used an entire inch per foot of width in shrinkage and could've used more (or used more ends per inch in the sett to begin with.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVY-7E96Wzki1aLIKjyIvLZBMZczD6CJacqtuIEvRRq1_HePD0FJaJU0LDNppuzB3KHzesOKCyKstdUZ4ED3qYMiwDoj_oj73f6HQqi6x27v1_pr29t60q75zckf9x9Gt81pHQ4NqhvRx/s1600/_DSC3301%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcVY-7E96Wzki1aLIKjyIvLZBMZczD6CJacqtuIEvRRq1_HePD0FJaJU0LDNppuzB3KHzesOKCyKstdUZ4ED3qYMiwDoj_oj73f6HQqi6x27v1_pr29t60q75zckf9x9Gt81pHQ4NqhvRx/s640/_DSC3301%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">edge blanket stitched in weaving thread, and the 6 strand braid being applied</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVW6NeqrpAmRPGuqFmFDDhbUXR10RhGxrHNvvzVQNCrd-D-Len8eL3hl6j6F7N1YTukc1QV-5hZ8fqlnxsIfZ07lXL17saz38iRNz5Z_WvLFr5HYTAvlv3cfEvbKEQBwJdxEa7-RvN1tHm/s1600/_DSC3304%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVW6NeqrpAmRPGuqFmFDDhbUXR10RhGxrHNvvzVQNCrd-D-Len8eL3hl6j6F7N1YTukc1QV-5hZ8fqlnxsIfZ07lXL17saz38iRNz5Z_WvLFr5HYTAvlv3cfEvbKEQBwJdxEa7-RvN1tHm/s640/_DSC3304%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting the crossed blanket stitch hem. You can see the front facing flap that will be turned back along the line of crossed blanket stitch. This doesn't serve the usual purpose of a facing (to cover a raw edge) but rather firms up the front edge so it hangs nicely.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpQkUnnoyTC7H7rbgIbvkoFvPa_w7yPbt3Rkq5k9zWeI4jVdyN8CC4gVnKRlE9A5xfOkx2aUTvaL2fIhWwk-s-8yNXtti3MTozwGVUEMG7YZpPFTgYAKjtUyDI8Fne8mKBUYxqsNuoG-V/s1600/_DSC3305%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpQkUnnoyTC7H7rbgIbvkoFvPa_w7yPbt3Rkq5k9zWeI4jVdyN8CC4gVnKRlE9A5xfOkx2aUTvaL2fIhWwk-s-8yNXtti3MTozwGVUEMG7YZpPFTgYAKjtUyDI8Fne8mKBUYxqsNuoG-V/s640/_DSC3305%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">spacing all the "rays" which are self applique pieces, and basting them down. I was confused. why applique something in a way in which you can't even tel lit's there? Well those pieces are all cut on the straight of the grain with the grain running vertically through the ray. sewn onto the partially bias semi circular cape, they act like a support scaffold and force it to hang evenly all the way round, and drape beautifully from the neck. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfYhwLZvmdlKeRY93Hx5NxlpQPYE9FxmqneqOM5BcWy0GTCszll9OmcEedxIbcW1Ot7cs9dHYuLPLYDRyJS35unZQ-EeiZiYG7NmETBJMYzKacTPdEi8H96sCFD9BuW7I8UH4ZHVCDxZQ/s1600/_DSC3307%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfYhwLZvmdlKeRY93Hx5NxlpQPYE9FxmqneqOM5BcWy0GTCszll9OmcEedxIbcW1Ot7cs9dHYuLPLYDRyJS35unZQ-EeiZiYG7NmETBJMYzKacTPdEi8H96sCFD9BuW7I8UH4ZHVCDxZQ/s640/_DSC3307%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting the hood marking. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLaounnbYH8WZV63-TMQD11PxAH8LO1RIMcH5xsLESHtPHNV-S_jOQrCaXivd2-HGveUwJBu5FwqwaRrVczT9yEHfxfPh9Ied7OBB8HP5W0g2uiji1uRyAbXWx2xyNP8nCE5oAgb_f_4N/s1600/_DSC3308%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJLaounnbYH8WZV63-TMQD11PxAH8LO1RIMcH5xsLESHtPHNV-S_jOQrCaXivd2-HGveUwJBu5FwqwaRrVczT9yEHfxfPh9Ied7OBB8HP5W0g2uiji1uRyAbXWx2xyNP8nCE5oAgb_f_4N/s640/_DSC3308%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rays all appliqued. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnnPoT5QXb-wDoD6OAnOFPa_y0WEHq5r_Sm-Xy3QHLzrz3riBfS6kC6kWAskMt92vRfTXHjBg7EE4h8Be3lxb7HPrBZvuPLhb0Fb_LW3zxgmXbr9INT6_9COfvVJSfUQ3Z3EpbnVsOkglg/s1600/_DSC3309%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnnPoT5QXb-wDoD6OAnOFPa_y0WEHq5r_Sm-Xy3QHLzrz3riBfS6kC6kWAskMt92vRfTXHjBg7EE4h8Be3lxb7HPrBZvuPLhb0Fb_LW3zxgmXbr9INT6_9COfvVJSfUQ3Z3EpbnVsOkglg/s640/_DSC3309%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is cross stitch worked over 3 strand braid. some of the points are wonky. if I had it to do again I'd baste both sides of the rays down with the weaving thread (so it didn't have to be removed) and THEN do the cross stitch. That'd keep everything from getting funny. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxyYKeiOxHLtSjTnmY3VDz2ZT8tvdaqxmTJK5te4sj9lkPspay4vjHHqViupt91_dMmvp_CC0byOBYVL1Uz9zKFkQMmIDJRdFt4PsziiOMzzjT4Kh3nWXIhDqvccCWSRNVjIBgiQKoqbS/s1600/_DSC3310%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYxyYKeiOxHLtSjTnmY3VDz2ZT8tvdaqxmTJK5te4sj9lkPspay4vjHHqViupt91_dMmvp_CC0byOBYVL1Uz9zKFkQMmIDJRdFt4PsziiOMzzjT4Kh3nWXIhDqvccCWSRNVjIBgiQKoqbS/s640/_DSC3310%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hood totally marked and working on the couching.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXrx23xpB5cuPaUjNiWLVKF2q3MGwdGvrQKyqsxo_ywL4MjyjJcvqU_xW_2eJUYMoUJpBww5hhjfATTnajzq1aEfCwPuS36G297QtZDKeC5btz_AWtPekffK7B4BuYuQKqljXbaK45RRa/s1600/_DSC3315%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGXrx23xpB5cuPaUjNiWLVKF2q3MGwdGvrQKyqsxo_ywL4MjyjJcvqU_xW_2eJUYMoUJpBww5hhjfATTnajzq1aEfCwPuS36G297QtZDKeC5btz_AWtPekffK7B4BuYuQKqljXbaK45RRa/s640/_DSC3315%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hood finished and lined with the bobbles mounted! Getting there! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5jtmgC-2mkI9GA0XRu9GYyv6-K7urNyknN5ZH2gAs3WEdjMJvODN6atAOJ5ptDAYR94b20KBhw_UrWVK0lZD93V-7zMymHDxIkOQvnmTKNFwJRek1UwoveTL1-l7Tm0d1Ot5ds2x03sTv/s1600/_DSC3317%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5jtmgC-2mkI9GA0XRu9GYyv6-K7urNyknN5ZH2gAs3WEdjMJvODN6atAOJ5ptDAYR94b20KBhw_UrWVK0lZD93V-7zMymHDxIkOQvnmTKNFwJRek1UwoveTL1-l7Tm0d1Ot5ds2x03sTv/s640/_DSC3317%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The home stretch, marking the fronts: first with prick and pounce, then with thinned whit gouache.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsT19xiBtUZtSfzC41cZGI5oQv3c5tehyphenhyphenapFozhQt2mswm_EQZyvawCWzq6_Ciub1W00QKJ_5PrpytYsFwqytbwOs5rgtthy4dtIgZQchxH7_CFZ4xTaVKEGWabrdmH-1jJKP7bKIzpvAF/s1600/30714152_10105307547384409_2408156092346400768_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsT19xiBtUZtSfzC41cZGI5oQv3c5tehyphenhyphenapFozhQt2mswm_EQZyvawCWzq6_Ciub1W00QKJ_5PrpytYsFwqytbwOs5rgtthy4dtIgZQchxH7_CFZ4xTaVKEGWabrdmH-1jJKP7bKIzpvAF/s640/30714152_10105307547384409_2408156092346400768_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the stand at competition! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYp8YENKjrN1Ea1Ct0T7aMkAs6AbnNpmIv9lAcKw3CMf5k1FiM2q9QmIJmeyq5XWZqdw7-1Y-E9tgVtSZg9mlcfXrnW5m9Lzo3z5KTVGVE9QsrD-qSfgcF6tfIlWjvSrychtQgiKyQld0/s1600/30714284_10105307544310569_8369144651323539456_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtYp8YENKjrN1Ea1Ct0T7aMkAs6AbnNpmIv9lAcKw3CMf5k1FiM2q9QmIJmeyq5XWZqdw7-1Y-E9tgVtSZg9mlcfXrnW5m9Lzo3z5KTVGVE9QsrD-qSfgcF6tfIlWjvSrychtQgiKyQld0/s640/30714284_10105307544310569_8369144651323539456_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished hem. You can't see the stabelizing blanket stitch in the weaving thread under the crossed blanket.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj00mCYfJwcQNwntxATjZIQXIoCkvHgzMRnFWyIylI_wwmsyxFHecgE2uhcnYytJSeZ1Snm88Xi-Vos23WQ5QgMcSPrdcd61loVE3_pGiHWuKJbD8Ru4I_7L2ejNPNqv8hhFH8s5KQf6YZY/s1600/30712383_10105307545797589_4697933793569275904_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="966" data-original-width="1286" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj00mCYfJwcQNwntxATjZIQXIoCkvHgzMRnFWyIylI_wwmsyxFHecgE2uhcnYytJSeZ1Snm88Xi-Vos23WQ5QgMcSPrdcd61loVE3_pGiHWuKJbD8Ru4I_7L2ejNPNqv8hhFH8s5KQf6YZY/s640/30712383_10105307545797589_4697933793569275904_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of my display. The husbeast made me the wonderful wood display cards for my threads.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_1726219738"></span><span id="goog_1726219739"></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-73685097470950138702018-03-12T12:34:00.000-07:002018-03-12T12:45:36.856-07:00Embroidered Viking KaftanI decided last fall that I wanted to finally make myself a kaftan, and not only that, but I wanted to make a nice Kaftan, not just, fling something together as quickly as possible so I have something to wear. I have a shawl, I have a square plaid cloak, I can keep warm adequately at most events, but a kaftan is another layer, and more convenient in a lot of ways than a folded shawl or cloak.<br />
<br />
while men's jackets, wrapped and belted in the style found in Hedeby, or in the case of Birka, fastened with buttons, are extensively (for viking garments) documented, women's Kaftans, or long coats, are not even a little. There are instances at birka, where silk loops, of the kind used to fasten a garment, have been found in a brooch positioned below the breasts. There was a hemmed piece of wool found running over the edge of a tortoise brooch. That and worked silver bands around the wrist area, not obviously associated with a serk, and decorative bands possibly associated with a lower hem, are about the the sum total of the evidence. Figurines are, notoriously, difficult. Women are shown wearing large triangular wraps which obscure the upper half of the clothes, leaving which layers are which at the bottom, debatable at best. But, considering the existence of a similar men's garment, and the practicality of another layer in a cold climate, it's not a far leap.<br />
<br />
The presence of the single closure under the bust, the partially covered tortoise brooch, along with the practical difficulties of closing a garment over bulky brooch and beads, and the impracticality of covering your knife, keys, needle case, etc with a garment, argue for a sort of scooped cut away neckline, going around the broochs. This allows for the continued display of beads, and makes it possible for the chatalaine items to fall over the outer garment, thus remaining accessible. Some argue a high neckline could have been allowed to fold open, and while this is certainly possible, the shaped neckline of the hedeby mens coat, and the fact that the one fragment found over a tortoise brooch was hemmed, not folded, argues some against this.<br />
<br />
The general consensus then, is that this was a long sleeved, calf length at least garment, with a scooped neckline, possibly trimmed with silk, held closed beneath the breasts with probably a Trefoil brooch threaded through loops. I will fully admit that this is the shakiest of all the viking garments in terms of evidence for it, and that building a full fledged garment from the very miniscule facts we have is questionable at best. Some people decline to admit such a garment even existed! But, my previous arguments about practicality stand, and I decided to make one anyway.<br />
<br />
Having set my hand to the plow, so to speak, I looked through my woolens, determined to use one of the larger pieces. I had a large peice of very soft grey, in a very pretty color, that I've been using as a mantle since the beginning of my little viking adventure more than three years ago. It had been in my mind to upgrade it into a kaftan for some time. But grey is very boring for a viking. They weren't much for undyed wools, and from chemical evidence liked flash and bright colors. Besides, the grey would have made a kaftan of scanty length. I also happened to have a chunk of heavy orange in plausible madder, which I quite liked ,but was too heavy, and too small to do almost anything with. That and the bag of wool threads my mom had given me, in shades of orange and red (originally intended for a color wheel that she never completed), sparked an idea: I would embroider the grey, to give it some flash, and then border it with the orange.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc38K33xlogf7w-3W54CGKZnm4o9jrsx_7DAg4no8RCF8MBOGEZtTReRgwhVxkKAnbwHKTvZY1qexg0FDsUN24RCOd0Bhyphenhyphene_ylBT_A0W0kQ8uvMklYddqFqC0F9IATYLG31gLkzUrmoL-B/s1600/odin%2527s+raven+9th+century+isle+of+man.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc38K33xlogf7w-3W54CGKZnm4o9jrsx_7DAg4no8RCF8MBOGEZtTReRgwhVxkKAnbwHKTvZY1qexg0FDsUN24RCOd0Bhyphenhyphene_ylBT_A0W0kQ8uvMklYddqFqC0F9IATYLG31gLkzUrmoL-B/s320/odin%2527s+raven+9th+century+isle+of+man.jpg" width="275" /></a><br />
Of course there is the usual difficulty about large scale embroideries on viking garments, which can be argued ad naseum. I decided that I didn't care if it wasn't the purest interpretation of a garment already based on slightly dodgy evidence, and went for it. Animal themes are common in what embroidery we have remaining from the viking era, as well as in their artwork. I looked a lot of images, and decided to render a pair of my favorite birds, ravens, on the shoulders of the garment. I took the shape of the raven from a carving showing Odin with one of his birds perched on his shoulder (9th century rune stone from the isle of Mann), embellishing it from several brooches in raven form.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVFEqHmhWgeVOl_kOEOjtHpVu5hzmMuTwCIu48IayQbZLi0b22SGvf8SLba8qn9W3Vz7PFwlW9eBkSFTxYKENJRTbE-xpEhfKVY-TwiEp9_ZGjZQCqOgQJuX9BAD5MEmnJW_QoampyyRXs/s1600/vsymb2b.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVFEqHmhWgeVOl_kOEOjtHpVu5hzmMuTwCIu48IayQbZLi0b22SGvf8SLba8qn9W3Vz7PFwlW9eBkSFTxYKENJRTbE-xpEhfKVY-TwiEp9_ZGjZQCqOgQJuX9BAD5MEmnJW_QoampyyRXs/s400/vsymb2b.gif" /></a>I particularly loved this little brass piece. it was listed as a horse harness ornament, but I was unable to find a specific date, or location for it. I loved how all the feathers had different textures in the tail. I decided to use different textures in all of the tail and wing feathers of my ravens, and try to use stitches to imitate textures found of pieces of raven jewelry.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnbQhi7r8gXhGJYfgkj90weuQN7rgL9FWjBVnST6eNQXfIWeVXS59t-4Yo1slspjR5nwIoivUx5HvKe9MboNGOA3DxH-oB9GAzmGio9gAST2a-ma0ASeAvOKPvrcIceUM3dLSrK4EGhPST/s1600/DSC_1794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnbQhi7r8gXhGJYfgkj90weuQN7rgL9FWjBVnST6eNQXfIWeVXS59t-4Yo1slspjR5nwIoivUx5HvKe9MboNGOA3DxH-oB9GAzmGio9gAST2a-ma0ASeAvOKPvrcIceUM3dLSrK4EGhPST/s320/DSC_1794.JPG" width="320" /></a>I cut the kaftan in a very basic style similar to the hedeby coat. Straight fronts and backs with a sloped shoulder, with a center back gore, and side gores to provide fullness in the skirts. Since it's desireable to have the over layer slightly open in the front to display any decorations on the smokkr below, and since the coat didn't need to wrap like the hedeby coat, I did not use a split front gore. The sleeve has a slightly shaped head, and a underarm gusset, Because of fabric shortages the sleeve is a bit wodgy. The gosset is long and tapered at one end to give me more upper arm room, because I could fit that on the fabric I had, but not a wider upper sleeve. Considering the extremely funky piecing we've seen on some extant pieces I am going to call this totally period. Then I turned all the edges under, and whip stitched them down to finish the edges, using modern cotton thread in a matching color of grey. on a nice thick wool, it's easy to pick up the threads on the inside without your stitches showing on the outside.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7KwYbhmHSRpSrDd3R-NF0SvUMbpR1lsK5scgoVlRT0Jq5HpKX87sObr4WRL_XmpCc5Q-VU-LKXG6gV9iCjjLTTx6xxu5qQzR1WIQ3NKnsEA3h3SKT4U1fJ0ptvGwk2nGJ8zbDBOP8KpaW/s1600/DSC_1795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7KwYbhmHSRpSrDd3R-NF0SvUMbpR1lsK5scgoVlRT0Jq5HpKX87sObr4WRL_XmpCc5Q-VU-LKXG6gV9iCjjLTTx6xxu5qQzR1WIQ3NKnsEA3h3SKT4U1fJ0ptvGwk2nGJ8zbDBOP8KpaW/s400/DSC_1795.JPG" width="267" /></a></div>
I traced half of the upper back into my big sketch book, and drew one of a pair of ravens. The very vertical pose of these ravens makes them ideal to use across the shoulders, because they fit very nicely. The scale worked out so their tails end right above the tip of the back gore. Since they're not attached to odin's shoulder, I interlaced the toes for a little extra detail. You will notice the feet are staggered as in perspective view, but the same size. That's a typical feature of this period of art. I originally was going to use the curled beak you see on so many of the brooches to echo the curled toes and the swirl on the wing, but decided, as period as it is, i just don't care for it that much, and went back to the simple beak from the isle of mann carving.<br />
<br />
Transferring it onto wool was, as usual, a lot of fun. wool is a super huge pain. I ended up measuring and marking reference points, then drawing the ravens on free hand with a fine tipped sharpie marker.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4KmmXKiaJrHZcOGMF8JRrXxx6YtILOPoe0K-DWqsOxYXn_RXbknAqkgIKCNPwfSViLSq1h0mnXFIwPUZ4TiiRBVfBXVuUcHSD5IoDXgc1E1CvYngE6u5I9Z0S6eYDah63kZAeezEk4y_/s1600/DSC_1796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4KmmXKiaJrHZcOGMF8JRrXxx6YtILOPoe0K-DWqsOxYXn_RXbknAqkgIKCNPwfSViLSq1h0mnXFIwPUZ4TiiRBVfBXVuUcHSD5IoDXgc1E1CvYngE6u5I9Z0S6eYDah63kZAeezEk4y_/s320/DSC_1796.JPG" width="320" /></a>I chose to use chain stitch for the outlines. I worked the ravens on the cut out back piece before putting it together both to ensure I had enough embroidery thread to do the outlines all in once color (since I was working in a limited supply) and because then I didn't have to wrangle the whole coat around I did not use a hoop for any of this work. Although a hoop can be an invaluable tool, I don't generally care for using one in the first place, and particularly dislike it when working on wool. There are some situations in which it's unavoidable, but the way I work a lot of my outlining stitches make it somewhat counterproductive.<br />
<br />
With the ravens outlined, I started on putting the kaftan together. My original plan was to use a decorative stitch both to construct and embellish. I had used van dyke stitch to construct a hood for Kitten earlier in the year, and it had both gone quickly and looked pretty. Since I was using one of the cousins of that stitch for this I decided to work it the same way. I ran the first half of the center back gore, from the point down. The ends didn't line up. This was odd, but I decided I hadn't measured correctly, and started the other side, working from the point down as well. This time the OTHER edge was longer. This was clearly not an issue of mis measurement. I laid the piece out flat on the floor, and the issue was clear to behold: the stitching was pulling up one side of the work as I went. Since I had worked both sides tip down, one seam had pulled up the gore, the other side the back of the kaftan. it was terrible and rumply, and steaming wasn't going to solve it. At this point the whole thing went into bad project time out for a few months.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6M0UPtwK8HKvJitrspMkzMCobOnzWDeSwH_FmhSsM32oYTkvN36hTbzGriU2hUQNST03f0ZsbrRaigb2B2aIlm4SenKNa5JLYszYc8-EMEs-aID1KXOA0i27IunGpv2CYuQ1dwISEngcK/s1600/DSC_1810.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6M0UPtwK8HKvJitrspMkzMCobOnzWDeSwH_FmhSsM32oYTkvN36hTbzGriU2hUQNST03f0ZsbrRaigb2B2aIlm4SenKNa5JLYszYc8-EMEs-aID1KXOA0i27IunGpv2CYuQ1dwISEngcK/s320/DSC_1810.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Once I was over sulking and wanting to kick things. I took out all the stitching I had done, carefully, so I could re-use the wool thread (remember limited thread and no way to get more!) and (grumpily) basted all the seams. Then I went back and worked all the seams in the decorative stitch. It was really hard to get this as even as I wanted it to be, and I'm still not entirely happy with the outcome. I love the look of the stitch but don't love how un tidily I ended up working it.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2upwSf3x3ngz0hvMfiPqvsBWusCL76LOQh6eiqXcfv32pHHG1USAwhsyKUfK4Xr__I8ZVedI77Ky9bwTOtWV8OihBR8HHpd1lj-O3YPNomzYYLPZpgrVBUtbDEk-U_FAJ2m85s6ZwZTe5/s1600/caftan+stitching.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="331" data-original-width="815" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2upwSf3x3ngz0hvMfiPqvsBWusCL76LOQh6eiqXcfv32pHHG1USAwhsyKUfK4Xr__I8ZVedI77Ky9bwTOtWV8OihBR8HHpd1lj-O3YPNomzYYLPZpgrVBUtbDEk-U_FAJ2m85s6ZwZTe5/s640/caftan+stitching.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working the decorative stitch is a two step process.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx9ZnnysNqS7hPAKTdbxWnorTBWJfItYmlVzdD8qz6OJQ5AMzaSBy_KRVx5J209WW2_jxUZoU30zE_kJocq9kgW4yW8Wq3r-NMlYJwD4RQvV1zcD6Fg6QI3-39-ZRVubzqDWveAOV6Lpli/s1600/DSC_2904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx9ZnnysNqS7hPAKTdbxWnorTBWJfItYmlVzdD8qz6OJQ5AMzaSBy_KRVx5J209WW2_jxUZoU30zE_kJocq9kgW4yW8Wq3r-NMlYJwD4RQvV1zcD6Fg6QI3-39-ZRVubzqDWveAOV6Lpli/s320/DSC_2904.JPG" width="214" /></a>I finished all my tails by the simple expedient of working a few split stitches on the seam allowance then running the tail under a short ways.<br />
<br />
In between running the seams I worked on the ravens, being sure that all of the colors of thread used in the seams were also represented in the embroidery on the back. I used a feather texture worked in cloister stitch, a couched lattice work, spiraling split stitch on the lower beak, and bayeux stitch on the upper beak. I needed one more texture. I decided to run a series of tall and short osberg loops down the last feather to recreate the stamped circles used on a number of the brooches.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qvEFnqsr4_oUBz2yKqlmSUFPFHJ3aBQgOohdi9880vMp6n71WrUk1KxNd-i08bSZ2Jr7H7_INCegnROLpzCy0VUJ1_ieO0ieOlo_ZODgbGbNhPiwxp5a1hMsY71mnupxU5HLRTrNLu3j/s1600/DSC_2905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qvEFnqsr4_oUBz2yKqlmSUFPFHJ3aBQgOohdi9880vMp6n71WrUk1KxNd-i08bSZ2Jr7H7_INCegnROLpzCy0VUJ1_ieO0ieOlo_ZODgbGbNhPiwxp5a1hMsY71mnupxU5HLRTrNLu3j/s320/DSC_2905.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first step of osberg loop stitch: pin all those loops!<br />
(so many pins)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The bodies of the ravens looked empty and sad without any fill, after I'd filled in the feathers, so I used spirals to loosely fill in some of the upper bodies and sort of flying wedges of couched thread in the spiral of the wings. Again, textures taken off pieces of raven jewelry, which had knotwork or circles worked to fill in the bodies or portions of the body.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNBjamUmQqTALysBHIyP5vskKyq4YKsT2fVHdLQqbVJnRrj9Q7jswakPp3wXlxdH1T54wx7JsxHO0sjE2ak3btwSe-nvaGpYniCl-f0kosnwFFWF-CvJAdo5NBgmlbTb6uFUjej3OA3bNI/s1600/DSC_2914.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNBjamUmQqTALysBHIyP5vskKyq4YKsT2fVHdLQqbVJnRrj9Q7jswakPp3wXlxdH1T54wx7JsxHO0sjE2ak3btwSe-nvaGpYniCl-f0kosnwFFWF-CvJAdo5NBgmlbTb6uFUjej3OA3bNI/s640/DSC_2914.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished ravens! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-H0LPuSMf9rwIwEhVcwYmeiZmiQFxdO8aUBybQe33Ht4ZDPx6tfA6ZNHLRttaEzxIJBlgI0-gAZUOlqMC2Bc0Ymz24L3ARNVISTV6DaSeV1o18HXX35vAmcAryPj2_usu8JPAzYN2UO7a/s1600/DSC_2916.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-H0LPuSMf9rwIwEhVcwYmeiZmiQFxdO8aUBybQe33Ht4ZDPx6tfA6ZNHLRttaEzxIJBlgI0-gAZUOlqMC2Bc0Ymz24L3ARNVISTV6DaSeV1o18HXX35vAmcAryPj2_usu8JPAzYN2UO7a/s320/DSC_2916.JPG" width="320" /></a>Once I had run all the seams on the body, I had to attach the trim to the bottom. I had cut wedges and rectangles that continued the shape of the pieces of the main coat, I sewed them together and felled the edges down with white wool handspun.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmjaEiKWRvDVDG0TOUclPO1KsCQA5UHwLnmZhFCGJIPevO-lOyNatn1INntYfduDFOGH7lpNT7E2KInjwXZs1ZAf41Kcxju8h9ArSmz34ca487SI_JZPWf5BNQJYK8RKDOCFOCxw7Io04Z/s1600/DSC_2919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmjaEiKWRvDVDG0TOUclPO1KsCQA5UHwLnmZhFCGJIPevO-lOyNatn1INntYfduDFOGH7lpNT7E2KInjwXZs1ZAf41Kcxju8h9ArSmz34ca487SI_JZPWf5BNQJYK8RKDOCFOCxw7Io04Z/s320/DSC_2919.JPG" width="320" /></a> I sewed the seams with the allowance to the outside, trimmed the grey down short, and turned the seam up over the body, where I basted it down. I covered the seam with a couched down whip cord braid.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kiIAbg1qYOFShjgsXvVAg5PReFBkBDeLEBpIwPTHHGrdXKpFRX-TT9pq3yU2MpTQqdvD-IKxg3tQxvgCLIRdQzNWwmSwF0w87EjkMdBb98tRK18VTWXmy_qzJ2T5BeujwMXk1_NjjUTz/s1600/DSC_2920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kiIAbg1qYOFShjgsXvVAg5PReFBkBDeLEBpIwPTHHGrdXKpFRX-TT9pq3yU2MpTQqdvD-IKxg3tQxvgCLIRdQzNWwmSwF0w87EjkMdBb98tRK18VTWXmy_qzJ2T5BeujwMXk1_NjjUTz/s320/DSC_2920.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Then I hemmed the coat with a herringbone stitch, which shows neatly on the outside as a parallel row of straight stitches. This is a documentable period technique. Actually it's the only documentable period use for herringbone, as much as we vikings love to use it over seams on the outside for the fancy.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1HFUqSOZifYTsXYBrxZNHr2KgYf7NSzTgKInFIG3hkQl-OMJ85fn1jls1Mx92H1X2sBmnqWUdo380bsCARvxoyadJs72Z8XE3Rno1YeF-DfircGy0jPapckCXcU-sRRU2tj8I61POQQxj/s1600/DSC_2936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1HFUqSOZifYTsXYBrxZNHr2KgYf7NSzTgKInFIG3hkQl-OMJ85fn1jls1Mx92H1X2sBmnqWUdo380bsCARvxoyadJs72Z8XE3Rno1YeF-DfircGy0jPapckCXcU-sRRU2tj8I61POQQxj/s320/DSC_2936.JPG" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whip cord braiding in progress with my<br />
improvised bobbins.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then I edged the front opening with bands of orange, and the neck edge with orange cut on the bias, which used the last scraps of the orange. I had enough cord to cover the raw edge of the bias wool with couched cord, but whip stitched the front edges down with white wool. That made it "finished not done" and wearable in time for Edlvatten's Winter Thyng which seemed like a reasonable debut. I'm now making more whip cord braid to finish edging all of the orange, and maybe run another line around the bottom somewhere, maybe with some decorative doodles. I'd also like to embroider some rondelles around the bottom, but have to figure out the exact design for that, so this project is on the back burner for now!<br />
<br />
Of course no images of me actually wearing the garment seem to exist, but I did get some nice ones of it in outside light to share with you. It is a lovely sweepy flowy thing, and I do enjoy wearing it. It's also VERY warm. With the addition of my mittens and hood I am warmer than in a mundane outside jacket wearing it! And of course, for a really cold day I could add a cloak on top of this, plus wool stockings under my gown and possibly nallbound socks over them and under my turnshoes for outside wear.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDeDdfe6MZwqq7lYJANL8n54odO9FwJJmB5nftsLyWfKsrtjVUnLaeW4AQToY1owOKWAeGKRMAVnoyaQNZPDitM7nTPCXjGSt7EpbLDHbS8TdY0WyWEIgOnP0CWl1_b48MRpaBaheHF8yq/s1600/DSC_3157.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1559" data-original-width="1600" height="622" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDeDdfe6MZwqq7lYJANL8n54odO9FwJJmB5nftsLyWfKsrtjVUnLaeW4AQToY1owOKWAeGKRMAVnoyaQNZPDitM7nTPCXjGSt7EpbLDHbS8TdY0WyWEIgOnP0CWl1_b48MRpaBaheHF8yq/s640/DSC_3157.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFscam3BGc5WyHIMsTmRQcaMFbC-aPAQEapowjvQvbNzZuEoM8Zj_FyD8TIqYvMwDgXnpqnqJNb8H4AHptoBa3s_He1l0EYAcOOLAyJfaQUKHClB6UgPEudvgUrYFJcSu2xRnmrAva8b9T/s1600/DSC_3159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFscam3BGc5WyHIMsTmRQcaMFbC-aPAQEapowjvQvbNzZuEoM8Zj_FyD8TIqYvMwDgXnpqnqJNb8H4AHptoBa3s_He1l0EYAcOOLAyJfaQUKHClB6UgPEudvgUrYFJcSu2xRnmrAva8b9T/s640/DSC_3159.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGk7ZostxUkbCjlJfyEsY9P_Rc2YIiWQutt_sHvmAiiuD7ogBCgsVjDXci3zjz9oKS0HtpMfx8Yx10r7GVBgrQ7KInE3tsl1m2-bfsMpjE3nsVYn5JUKC25OYnhCfcXG5yNauNhOis4fJh/s1600/DSC_3160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1305" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGk7ZostxUkbCjlJfyEsY9P_Rc2YIiWQutt_sHvmAiiuD7ogBCgsVjDXci3zjz9oKS0HtpMfx8Yx10r7GVBgrQ7KInE3tsl1m2-bfsMpjE3nsVYn5JUKC25OYnhCfcXG5yNauNhOis4fJh/s640/DSC_3160.JPG" width="522" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-85324924487365676852018-02-25T09:16:00.000-08:002018-02-25T09:16:41.279-08:00Tips and Tricks: Choosing and Washing FleeceI'm currently embarked on my first fleece to garment project in a number of years, so it occurred to me that it might be a good time to write up a series of brief how to's on the process, with some of the things I've learned along the way by trial and error. I've been doing this whole spinning thing for a long time now. I think I was maybe less than twelve when I started: My mom caught me picking up little off cuts of fleece in the sheep barn at the fair, twisting them into yarn, and winding the yarn around a stick. I got a drop spindle and spinning lessons for christmas that year. I've been hooked ever since, and although I don't have as much time to devote to my spinning as I used to, I still get through about a fleece a year most years. While you can purchase prepared fiber, I find I prefer to work from fleeces, unless I happen to stumble over some amazing dyed roving I can't resist! Fleece is more economical, and I find it very rewarding to work with. I can pick general purpose fleece, or something for a specific project, like the romney fleece I'm working with in this series, which will grow up to be a cloak.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCMnLO0a8fJ7tL_XuFFigy7gDCpYLHuKus521YPPa6nXHgGCrdIzYTuFmlYiepwDFkF4ZmiOYxzxGEkBbVbCgKWYDH-LtNX5UNC1M97N9A7LXzwF6EmRwIEH_AD8vMkbG5ysfIjpRC4X3w/s1600/DSC_3106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCMnLO0a8fJ7tL_XuFFigy7gDCpYLHuKus521YPPa6nXHgGCrdIzYTuFmlYiepwDFkF4ZmiOYxzxGEkBbVbCgKWYDH-LtNX5UNC1M97N9A7LXzwF6EmRwIEH_AD8vMkbG5ysfIjpRC4X3w/s320/DSC_3106.JPG" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medium to long staple length, good medium<br />Crimp. Not super fine, but not coarse. This<br />Romney is the vanilla of the spinning<br />world! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
First you have to pick your fleece! You have to kind of know what you're looking for, in terms of fiber weight, crimp, staple length, etc, so If you are newer it is good to take a fiber friend along to help you! Once you've worked with a few different fleeces you'll start to develop a feel for how different kinds of wools spin, and act as yarn when made into a finished object. You'll start to have opinions about what you like and don't like in a fleece too. I, for instance, firmly believe that the only GOOD use for merino is as bird nests. Or felt. It makes lovely felt.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8veZ6hLAlNlyONfWUS3YyvtGKeZzjv_6tG3vLG-7RJv0yWzQyqwbF-kGva1Lqb-H4UcttoFJN3VBA_Xwv8Xm9G2A_6dwZ2hgGuRd-rTGgu7Gy8BT2mwNdZ0063avtNpYk8Dl6ss97s9f-/s1600/DSC_3105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8veZ6hLAlNlyONfWUS3YyvtGKeZzjv_6tG3vLG-7RJv0yWzQyqwbF-kGva1Lqb-H4UcttoFJN3VBA_Xwv8Xm9G2A_6dwZ2hgGuRd-rTGgu7Gy8BT2mwNdZ0063avtNpYk8Dl6ss97s9f-/s320/DSC_3105.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is my nice Romney fleece. Romney is basic, I don't<br />love it, but it's easy to work with, and it's suitable for the<br />Project I am doing. This fleece was not coated, You can see<br />that the tips are sunburnt because of this. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Some things stay the same no matter what kind of fleece you're choosing: Poke around in different parts of the bag to inspect the fleece, or ideally lay the fleece out so you can see all of it. You want to look for a fleece without a lot of Vegetable Material (VM) which is little bits of hay, dirt, weeds, and sometimes poop stuck in the fleece. You want to avoid second cuts, places where the shearer went over the same spot twice and left little short pieces that have to be laboriously picked out. And you want to look at the general condition of the fleece. it should be shiny, fairly uniform in color an length (although some colored sheep have natural variation across their coats, or you have spotted sheep like jacobs), the ends of the locks shouldn't be matted, brittle, or gross (although they may be slightly darker or lighter in color.) The best fleeces typically come from sheep that have been coated, and it's a good practice ask if it was coated (there are always exceptions to this rule, Icelandic for instance is not typically coated, and there is very little difference in the fleece because of the long guard hairs). This protects the fleece from sun damage, dirt, and VM. Ideally the fleece should have been skirted at least some already, this means that the sections around the tail, and the belly, and parts of the legs have been taken off the fleece and discarded. If it has not been skirted, you should pay less per pound for it, because you will have to throw some of it away (or leave it out for the birds to make nests.)<br />
<br />
When you get your fleece home, lay it out on the floor, cut side down, and give it a good going over. remove any sections that are very short, matted, or have a lot of VM in them. Then flip it cut side up, and have a look for any second cuts that you can pick off. It's much easier to get those off now than when you're trying to card! If you've bought a fleece that hasn't been skirted yet, there may be quite a bit to come off. Don't be afraid to be brutal! You don't want to be trying to work with the crappy bits of the fleece! If you can't bear to throw it away, (do through away and bits really matted with dirt, trust me.) wash it separately and make it into dryer balls or something.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vP__zKTgNMIKYjSW340AGm2TJfb5u1q4JKBalhGQxTJfD9MxIKjAp5gVj6KyaM9ZcTW1ZP9Q5CPMMAwTDHm8ltPXiMIG7U8PHmH9ulL6hucBp15xao8MHSmjFYebzD38AwC46KT4zhhy/s1600/DSC_3108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vP__zKTgNMIKYjSW340AGm2TJfb5u1q4JKBalhGQxTJfD9MxIKjAp5gVj6KyaM9ZcTW1ZP9Q5CPMMAwTDHm8ltPXiMIG7U8PHmH9ulL6hucBp15xao8MHSmjFYebzD38AwC46KT4zhhy/s320/DSC_3108.JPG" width="214" /></a>Now you're ready to wash! You need a plastic tote large enough for your fleece, and good quality hand dish soap, like dawn, or palmolive. Stick the tote in the tub, and fill it most of the way full with water that you can JUST stand to submerge your hand in. It should be uncomfortable, but not scalding. Too cold, you won't get enough of the lanolin out, too hot you scour the fleece and it ends up dry, scratchy, and brittle. Mix in a very large squirt of dish soap. More if the fleece is very greasy, less if it's fairly dry, but better a little too much than not enough. I probably squirted around 2-3 tablespoons worth into this wash. Now dump in your fleece.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc4l4CA90qWLvGPQOEsXBTrgA7STgqwxhbVUdIrZellCRDpjh6v1putzhRLgZGCh8Wo0Ajtqog0gGSLAlFTkTBmkbH4tbC71tyKsR9kok0BdajaCQy73QX1XpIVtU7eVks6limxQ2rzxYH/s1600/DSC_3109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc4l4CA90qWLvGPQOEsXBTrgA7STgqwxhbVUdIrZellCRDpjh6v1putzhRLgZGCh8Wo0Ajtqog0gGSLAlFTkTBmkbH4tbC71tyKsR9kok0BdajaCQy73QX1XpIVtU7eVks6limxQ2rzxYH/s320/DSC_3109.JPG" width="320" /></a>Here's the tricky part! We need to wash this sucker, but: <b>Agitation + Soap + Hot = Felt. </b>Felt is bad. The finer your fleece is, the thinner the individual fibers, the more prone it will be to turning into a felty mess (which will make you sad sad sad, ask me how I know.) superfine fleeces like merino or rambuilet felt practically if you look at them. So, pick a nice medium fleece to start with, and be gentle. You NEED to get the water swished through the fibers, but not rub the fibers together, or against your wash tub, so stick your hands flat on top of the fleece, push straight down until you feel resistance, but not till you squish it against the bottom of the tub, and let straight back up. Straight down, straight up. and Slowly and gently. do that all over the fleece until it's all submerged, Then leave it be. You'll want to come back a couple times and push it all down again, other than that, let it sit until the water is tepid. If you are washing a very fine fleece, First do yourself a favor and buy one that is very clean, preferably coated, then GENTLY submerge it, then don't touch it again. Better to decide that you need to wash the yarn because it's still a little oily than to have a felted mess.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4hlOHcPbaKWLyFkzNdE4Vmk8STaVWxt6Q9xAwcth-qJtVmSFzBwlUyjhTiiJyDANZtmJzcMW7k2BF_aoORtOQ-USYiGJqy108V5M-9G-Wg-aLcMVZrfQ2ZjUolpqWEG8mqVfkSQlt0dkm/s1600/DSC_3110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4hlOHcPbaKWLyFkzNdE4Vmk8STaVWxt6Q9xAwcth-qJtVmSFzBwlUyjhTiiJyDANZtmJzcMW7k2BF_aoORtOQ-USYiGJqy108V5M-9G-Wg-aLcMVZrfQ2ZjUolpqWEG8mqVfkSQlt0dkm/s320/DSC_3110.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
Now to rinse! Dump the wool into the tub, if you have a screen to place over your drain, that's helpful, if not, use your hands to keep the wool away from the drain (Wool clogs drains evidently??? Who knew!). Let the wool drain a minute or two, then use your hands to press as much water out of it as possible. Again, you do NOT want to rub the fibers together, so you want to press down hard, release, fold/turn the fleece a little, press down till water stops running out, and repeat till most of the water is out and you have the fleece gathered up into a small mountain. Do NOT wring it, just press it against the bottom of the tub. (For a superfine fleece, you will limit this step as well). Then refill the tub with water about the same temperature as the water you just dumped out, dump the fleece back in, press it under the water, and let it sit five minutes. Repeat this process until the water runs fairly clear. There are two important considerations here: firstly, "shocking" the wool, by taking it from cold to hot or hot to cold WILL lead to felting. so keep the water an even temperature. Secondly, the more times you repeat this step, the more chance your fleece has to felt, so rinse it well, but don't be overly fussy about how "clear" clear water is. Three times was enough for this fleece, which was clean but had not been coated. Another real advantage of a fleece that's been coated (and why you may pay more for it) is that while the fleece still has plenty of lanolin in it, it has less dirt stuck to the lanolin. Less dirt = less rinsing = less chances for your fleece to felt (are you noticing a common refrain here?)<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmKdBBLkqxBBUO5Xf8FQIW6lqYgS43z5yZZLQe-p0NI6Tdbra6Em3g30JBwRIeNhOEchH_3p2d8f8hPUX3PZgeU4bsVqifXBX22w2SmYeivqcGyn_qswa_j51D7DEOBfmHqhjleTunPBou/s1600/DSC_3113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmKdBBLkqxBBUO5Xf8FQIW6lqYgS43z5yZZLQe-p0NI6Tdbra6Em3g30JBwRIeNhOEchH_3p2d8f8hPUX3PZgeU4bsVqifXBX22w2SmYeivqcGyn_qswa_j51D7DEOBfmHqhjleTunPBou/s400/DSC_3113.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Clear Enough" this tub has some iron stains, so the water<br />is a little lighter than it appears. There are no longer little<br />Sandy particles suspended in the water, which is the most<br />important sign that it's thoroughly rinsed. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA87-rgo5cKdz8iRzAPoU-58NWIJrTTGL0p2dp3oODHo2w2Gb_RYhPu5Uv1Qfg-R8ykYp2JmAvFhxvdpz5TVEs3IKyPl2lcz3Ls82OsJuj_edya5ziJR9rPelMWe01-EyJpOzR9va_IuRA/s1600/DSC_3114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA87-rgo5cKdz8iRzAPoU-58NWIJrTTGL0p2dp3oODHo2w2Gb_RYhPu5Uv1Qfg-R8ykYp2JmAvFhxvdpz5TVEs3IKyPl2lcz3Ls82OsJuj_edya5ziJR9rPelMWe01-EyJpOzR9va_IuRA/s320/DSC_3114.JPG" width="320" /></a>Dump it out one last time, and squeeze at least so it's not sopping, and then put it in your washing machine (the tub is a handy transport medium) run it through the "spin" cycle, and spread it out onto a rack to dry. I will note here that if you are within reasonable distance of your washing machine, you can spin it after the washing, before the first rinse. the more of that really dirty, soapy water you get out, the less times you have to rinse it. I have to trek across the house to get to the washer, and this isn't a superfine fleece I'm hyper concerned about felting, so I didn't bother. If you do not have a drying rack or screen, you can lay it out on a sheet, preferably outdoors in the sun. but it will dry more slowly, and you will need to turn it several times so it does all dry. Even on a rack, like this, if the fleece is really piled up you may need to turn it so the interior dries.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmYObH2P1tMX_gJ0IdpBIqbMUyVAwaqYSIaIOCVqfWITmNMM3bOQW6lO1_CI7iegIGmKb8veYMCId0BfiXNWW2Uia5AvfFCQufnQ_iNLxBbQIxn-PisUPiPvpjA-T5lO5ZPYgPj4NdgxEs/s1600/DSC_3115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmYObH2P1tMX_gJ0IdpBIqbMUyVAwaqYSIaIOCVqfWITmNMM3bOQW6lO1_CI7iegIGmKb8veYMCId0BfiXNWW2Uia5AvfFCQufnQ_iNLxBbQIxn-PisUPiPvpjA-T5lO5ZPYgPj4NdgxEs/s320/DSC_3115.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Now your fleece is all ready to process for spinning! it should be soft, and shiny, and still have some oils in it. you can see that the locks haven't formed little coats of matted fibers over them, that means I've done my job right and it will be easy to pick and card for spinning. It shouldn't be oily, but it shouldn't be dry either. the lingering lanolin aids in the spinning, <br /><br />You do NOT want to stuff this back into the plastic bag! Washed fleece needs to breathe! (in fact you really shouldn't store any kind of fleece in a sealed plastic bag. Better to wash it and store it clean even if you're not going to use it right away) Old pillow cases are the best way to store fleece, Stuff it all in there (an amazing amount fits, but you don't want to compact it too much, use two if you need to!) and tie off the top with a string. I always put a tag with a description of the fleece on the tie so I don't have to open all the bags to find the one I want. Then I store the bags in a plastic bin. <br /><br />You should stick a moth repellent into the pillow case with your fleece. Cedar chips and lavender tied off in a knee high stocking work just fine, Frequently at fiber fairs you can find people selling herbal moth repellent blends loose in bulk. These are particularly nice typically, and work well. You can make sachets but honestly, a knee high stocking knotted off is easiest and works best, as it lets out the scent, keeps in even very tiny herb fragments, and doesn't stick to the wool and get all tangled.<br /><br />
Any of you have additional tricks/tips? Leave a comment for me! I'm always super curious about other peoples methods!Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-32756501092279791592018-02-05T08:06:00.004-08:002018-04-19T13:42:11.341-07:00Purple SmokkrAbout a year ago, I aquired a lovely piece of wool twill, in a color I like to refer to as "plausible purple," with the intention of making myself a second smokkr, of the un-pleated variety, to expand my somewhat scant wardrobe. My black pleated smokkr is, at this point, more than three years old, and has made the rounds of many, many events. It's beginning to show some wear, and to be frank, I do get a little tired of wearing the same thing all the time. With the massive rush to get us ready for camping events last year, I did little to expand my own wardrobe, aside from necessary new undergowns and fighting gear. But this winter I wanted to add a couple nicer pieces to my wardrobe, made properly, not in haste and out of absolute panicked necessity. With a kaftan and a second smokkr, I would be set for any events for the next few years, until my old things started wearing out at least. It would be a relief to just not have to worry about my own garb, and be able to focus on keeping the gremlins in clothing that actually fits.<br />
<br />
As far as historical reference, I could go on at great length, but that would be reinventing the wheel, instead I would like to direct your attention to these two fabulous articles by Hilde Thnumen, who has gathered all of the primary source material, translated as necessary, and discusses the conclusions that may be reached at length. I cannot do better.<br />
<a href="http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html" target="_blank">Viking Apron dress: Smokkr</a><br />
<a href="http://urd.priv.no/viking/haithabu.html#thunem-interpretation" target="_blank">haithabu smokkr interpretation</a><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigxj3asNLOlUiRKHWYCH55pE3RgHz75QivAiel4vh6PsE2dNIeIRViTFQAjQKYJL5Fs-gF9vsWxJ7Wozs5Jvj1lQkLy3myJPj6UZVN9P5-3mmluB9fb6AQSjgA_Al8P6_fvDiryAF2Jw0-/s1600/Valkyrie_Viking_Pendant_Original_Artefact_grande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigxj3asNLOlUiRKHWYCH55pE3RgHz75QivAiel4vh6PsE2dNIeIRViTFQAjQKYJL5Fs-gF9vsWxJ7Wozs5Jvj1lQkLy3myJPj6UZVN9P5-3mmluB9fb6AQSjgA_Al8P6_fvDiryAF2Jw0-/s320/Valkyrie_Viking_Pendant_Original_Artefact_grande.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silver-gilt Viking pendant, Oland, Sweden, <br />
6th century</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I am going to be basing my reconstruction on the Haithabu smokkr, which is closest geographically to my persona's residence in what is modern Scotland, and on this wonderful little figurine, usually interpreted as a Valkyrie. I love the surface detail of the braided decorative bands. although this figurine seems to be wearing a separate trained garment over the top of her smokkr (we assume it is a smokkr, although we cannot see the turtle brooches) the slightly trained silhouette seems to be a theme among the figurines, and, as I find it graceful personally, I have maintained it in my recreation.<br />
<br />
I started out by pinning the wool around my bust, to a comfortable tightness. that gave me a measurement of 41 inches (without seam allowance) separating half to the front, and half to the back, and adding seam allowance, gave me two panels of 21" Measuring down from where the top of my smokkr sits now, to where I wanted it to start to flare, gave me a measurement of about 8"<br />
<br />
Then it's a matter of fitting the pieces onto the available fabric in the most efficient way possible. there are a number of hypothosized layouts for the fitted style smokkr, and you can make one work for almost any size and shape piece of fabric. I made the first cut with the front and back, then unfolded the leftover square to make the side gores. I did not curve the bottoms of the side gores because I wanted a train effect, the longer, diagonal side will go towards the longer train side. This also keeps the front relatively flat while flaring the back out, which matches with the shape of existing figurines.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL_2hKiPYg7jNbOylxeeXRd4W2BJF8ecc22NrXJFlcmgqE6UdkWiXzDXq98xaTnnER-OFAyq5a_B5MjZf8sQZWyyNrgL-gfO7mOUTbNqLn8B7V762FalWRkYKWiOfE3FNLUjSLtsheFdGh/s1600/DSC_2970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL_2hKiPYg7jNbOylxeeXRd4W2BJF8ecc22NrXJFlcmgqE6UdkWiXzDXq98xaTnnER-OFAyq5a_B5MjZf8sQZWyyNrgL-gfO7mOUTbNqLn8B7V762FalWRkYKWiOfE3FNLUjSLtsheFdGh/s320/DSC_2970.JPG" width="214" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWRt9Av6TIfo8xx25rar7tyKUAjuc4CqzcOS_b_kJVO1kP1iyaM_eApYKWIw0qFoXZ-6F1fiAUWw1N8RotO8WgR5SqB7u97kDQTSYe-EXtCPySSGg6TEIC19TXt-Dr3FlxM0uMDttG76Fp/s1600/DSC_2971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWRt9Av6TIfo8xx25rar7tyKUAjuc4CqzcOS_b_kJVO1kP1iyaM_eApYKWIw0qFoXZ-6F1fiAUWw1N8RotO8WgR5SqB7u97kDQTSYe-EXtCPySSGg6TEIC19TXt-Dr3FlxM0uMDttG76Fp/s320/DSC_2971.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_nPMsrfK_Be_atpJN9e5923LRncg_-2v2fVUy0rfeDElCDJ3r2yM1KFDSUyWVx1sCrH2sU5E8BoDU0ZZxd93z9v9HolpHmItkVaLvvSzseyzTE66D_glYMrTJlPPDXAfAtomiV945GPKv/s1600/DSC_2972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_nPMsrfK_Be_atpJN9e5923LRncg_-2v2fVUy0rfeDElCDJ3r2yM1KFDSUyWVx1sCrH2sU5E8BoDU0ZZxd93z9v9HolpHmItkVaLvvSzseyzTE66D_glYMrTJlPPDXAfAtomiV945GPKv/s320/DSC_2972.JPG" width="320" /></a>With the rough seams sewn, I popped it on. I had the usual problem in the back, and had to take a large pinch out. I have an extremely curved lower spine, and it makes for a funny fit for almost all the basic layouts. One of the advantages of the pleated front smokkr is it alleviates this issue. I will probably have some horizontal wrinkling on this dress almost no matter what I do, although cutting the back top down some helps, as does not trying to fit it tightly through the waist, which would be unflattering on me at present anyhow. with it on inside out I placed pins for the darts at the front, and also for the loops to hang my brooches from.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC9Use7LwiTynsrk6rUnjakFjwGneM6oIADTxO5i-L6DROvC3s4pc4bkmIUXUZKQq6J52tiFcVeNDkJy5FNkp5yRM_2TJm1fKR0vV1LcLpLe-GaCsxrbO_KI95rxi15j90jkPI0NBa_aYg/s1600/DSC_2973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC9Use7LwiTynsrk6rUnjakFjwGneM6oIADTxO5i-L6DROvC3s4pc4bkmIUXUZKQq6J52tiFcVeNDkJy5FNkp5yRM_2TJm1fKR0vV1LcLpLe-GaCsxrbO_KI95rxi15j90jkPI0NBa_aYg/s320/DSC_2973.JPG" width="320" /></a>although I did run the long seams by machine, it was easier to run the very narrow darts (no more than a quarter inch at the widest!) by hand. Although the original piece, the ridge appears to have been set to the outside, then covered by fine braid, I had an oopsie here, and went on autopilot and put them to the inside. This is incorrect, however I plan to cover them with braid, so it will not be obvious.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
Then I overcast all the seams by hand with contrasting thread, which is a period approved method of seam finishing. I used blue DMC floss, since my ball of blue linen has gone walkabout. I'm not... entirely thrilled with the results. it's not as tidy as I'd love it to be, although certainly it's just as tidy as the overcast stitching on the dart of the extant garment.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfQ8jjdUlyzBgLcMXKb6tSMYnKl-eJU_MmTlZXqpUu_9U1u0wvA_fNixsxYOjbTPf79PhvrJlV_hVD8J0FGhqvVqCMXXqMnBu4j4GsyoLi2q787jXpJTaL-WUSQxgHTYPMwcDxxbKVwVz/s1600/DSC_2977%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwfQ8jjdUlyzBgLcMXKb6tSMYnKl-eJU_MmTlZXqpUu_9U1u0wvA_fNixsxYOjbTPf79PhvrJlV_hVD8J0FGhqvVqCMXXqMnBu4j4GsyoLi2q787jXpJTaL-WUSQxgHTYPMwcDxxbKVwVz/s320/DSC_2977%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
A number of the smokkr fragments found have been lined, or faced, with linen. It's impossible to know whether they were fully lined or not, since no full length garments have been found. because I ended up cutting the back of my smokkr down quite fat to make up for my curved spine and prevent unsightly wrinkles, I had a long bias edge from brooch to back. I wanted to stabelize this and keep the weight of the gown and pulling it on and off, from distorting the edge, so I used a partial lining of a natural colored linen. I also used this linen for the bottom brooch loops. Linen is actually more common, particularly for the hidden lower loops, than wool on extant smockkrs, probably because it wore better. I sewed the long hidden seam by machine again, doubling seaming it along the armpit/back portion. Then flipped it into the inside of the dress, hand top stitched with purple wool, and used threads pulled from the selvedge of the linen to whip stitch the loops, and hem the lining down to the shell of the smokkr.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNh2RgrpYVPOgGt1osbAqNIetgcCEt8c2XDSul0noYnVPcellG5bHoIXunmEbsgbKPjCGGLABijPMULbZF-DuqtOw7E2lcKmHhfEpSsMHSo2fYJ948DET3Lxn1XYU1r-m4DWw5xxldVoX/s1600/sandanger-b10722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNh2RgrpYVPOgGt1osbAqNIetgcCEt8c2XDSul0noYnVPcellG5bHoIXunmEbsgbKPjCGGLABijPMULbZF-DuqtOw7E2lcKmHhfEpSsMHSo2fYJ948DET3Lxn1XYU1r-m4DWw5xxldVoX/s400/sandanger-b10722.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fragment from Sarnanger b 10722 showing corded hem</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiik9yMeq7yRtXthWtKuzzz_JvsaGI16QWX0ZvkwHGMO56oERKbe8Iu9saWWvFpnP1yxokrN034jceh5japih3w2lsOdMVvo_BKmY6VrzO4bcytbMfqX9uvLPJP10lUUoKrkJJsxjt0eyCO/s1600/DSC_2979%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiik9yMeq7yRtXthWtKuzzz_JvsaGI16QWX0ZvkwHGMO56oERKbe8Iu9saWWvFpnP1yxokrN034jceh5japih3w2lsOdMVvo_BKmY6VrzO4bcytbMfqX9uvLPJP10lUUoKrkJJsxjt0eyCO/s320/DSC_2979%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>Then remained hemming. I had my imagination caught by a fragment of twill, edged with a cord overcast with woolen thread. this seemed tidy, and like it would give the hem a beautiful shape. According to the article about the find (Thnumen covers it in her paper about smokkrs) it's a braided cord, whip stitched over with a two ply thread. I extrapolated that the cord was probably wool, since it still remained, although it could have equally been linen. I had wool, so I braided a 3 strand cord. The easiest way was to baste it to the edge of the smokkr, which kept it even, then overcast it with 2 ply wool, as seen in the fragment. you can see that the stitches are close, but not crowded. I attempted to recreate that, as well as the scale of cord/fabric. Of course I ran out of thread with an small section left in the center front. I was left with a few options. I could use another color to do the front section of the hem. I could undo the braid for the darts and use that thread to finish the hem, then make different braid, or I could find a way of decorating the front that hid the block of missing hem. Number one would have been the most historically accurate, and in the end, the least time consuming. Of course I chose the less historically accurate, more difficult, and super fancy option, and decided to make the front block purple, and root an appliqued tree into it.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizVRl55hpnkNnrU7_D24J1HN6jXbakNb9xFVUTkLBW-181u0IS0GdAmfEJ0uE-Iedp0ea9Q6YyL-kkFbAHsDBFAhVj9isq2LOcbROzIFnje-heqMWgc_QQ3KwA_ygW-YgyD318YclXV3nC/s1600/25645fe56580cf0545a828c050a00f4e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizVRl55hpnkNnrU7_D24J1HN6jXbakNb9xFVUTkLBW-181u0IS0GdAmfEJ0uE-Iedp0ea9Q6YyL-kkFbAHsDBFAhVj9isq2LOcbROzIFnje-heqMWgc_QQ3KwA_ygW-YgyD318YclXV3nC/s320/25645fe56580cf0545a828c050a00f4e.jpg" width="256" /></a>My original plan had been to tablet weave wide trim and apply it in horizontal bands like on the valkyrie figurine. That plan is completely authentic and documentable (by viking standards) The new plan was less historically proveable. We do know that the vikings did use applique, the Osberg ship find included a wool gown with blue animals applied to the hem. Valkyrie figures show bands of decoration on skirts, but there is not real evidence for large scale blocks of decoration of this type. Even so, I liked the idea so much I ran with it. the best tree image I could find, was this one from a church in sedestal (for people with so many trees in their mythology, they sure didn't use tree images that much. Or my google fu for viking stuff has gotten weak), it's 12 century, so later, but the art has the proper shapes. I loved the acanthus like tree leaves. Acanthus shaped embroideries were part of the Mamman find, which is 10th century, so I felt the use of acanthus shapes was not out of context for my persona.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaphXNu-dP5udRxfDSWU0XxBCuEp9c4_xNEjV2jGk-bjkwwAfjkOrEsKeLLEVtMyEEFz_IVyuk-ociaGsdE2ECfhhWtyz7WA-dudish2ZsGWqIQvVdU4K1gihl2r9stD_vb7Tdjaa7U2xV/s1600/DSC_2988%255B1%255D+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaphXNu-dP5udRxfDSWU0XxBCuEp9c4_xNEjV2jGk-bjkwwAfjkOrEsKeLLEVtMyEEFz_IVyuk-ociaGsdE2ECfhhWtyz7WA-dudish2ZsGWqIQvVdU4K1gihl2r9stD_vb7Tdjaa7U2xV/s320/DSC_2988%255B1%255D+%25281%2529.JPG" width="214" /></a>Also at Mamman was a embroidery showing two beasts (perhaps leopards?) facing a tree in the center. This was a common motif in oriental textiles of the period, which we know the vikings had access to, particularly from the pskov find that Thnumen goes over in her articles. It is thought that this motif was a reproduction of that style of artwork. Working from this base, and digging through my wool stash, I decided to use an appliqued tree with two Eastern Tygers facing it. Making my dress both a reference to the extant embroidery finds, and a nod to the east kingdom.<br />
<br />
I drew the tree onto some aqua wool, and pinned it onto the gown. and then I started basting. And basting. And MORE basting. Followed by stitching it all down. I used small whip stitches, spaced out slightly. I've seen this technique used on early surviving applique pieces, and it was the most apt for the material I had to work with. The wool was more loosely woven and less fulled than is ideal for applique, so the edges required more stabelization, and I needed to cover more of the edge to keep the applique from just tearing out of the stitches.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqetN-YQSfAXQ7tmLx5o7zgLCQaFkZOQYGjTl4BzYod1J3s-TgcaNPYaWtKrSu7L0OjuQHWifXVxqjoKEvL9D179BmSj3Kc-MJnTValG2AbJ3B977tZIlnQ0ugQ4fvi6Y__DtmbcCus7qY/s1600/DSC_2996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqetN-YQSfAXQ7tmLx5o7zgLCQaFkZOQYGjTl4BzYod1J3s-TgcaNPYaWtKrSu7L0OjuQHWifXVxqjoKEvL9D179BmSj3Kc-MJnTValG2AbJ3B977tZIlnQ0ugQ4fvi6Y__DtmbcCus7qY/s320/DSC_2996.JPG" width="320" /></a>That done, I sketched a quick Easter Tyger, slightly simplified to be more in line with the style of the mammen embroideries, and the extent oriental textiles. The extreme detailing of the EK tyger is much more in line with later artistic styles, so I just dialed it back a bit while trying to keep it recognizeable. I cut that out of a gold wool skirt that I had for upcycling (moth holes) and pinned/basted it down. and by baste I mean overcast the edges with very tiny whip stitches to keep the little points from flying apart when I tried to applique around them.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyVkFgqJtiGE9z670CPoZFJOvNfzNsqDgk3Z8QUF1b6QbqZHFEeqDajmqUR0ixYQGssvv1sgb3HR0Ry5QTEtdOb61GvQpeynhcxO0v6N_JVkSo5xfVVG1e9sPq6xZYcoBtZyMLS5z53bi/s1600/DSC_2997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyVkFgqJtiGE9z670CPoZFJOvNfzNsqDgk3Z8QUF1b6QbqZHFEeqDajmqUR0ixYQGssvv1sgb3HR0Ry5QTEtdOb61GvQpeynhcxO0v6N_JVkSo5xfVVG1e9sPq6xZYcoBtZyMLS5z53bi/s320/DSC_2997.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbh_-vKOPdcW3TxLwsdxIilTwcMEzfXQ1TECDPMY8zYPHyPYBwOZc45nk6LEj5BiLb8BZEfUSLVxKbg4iu0qjFOC5t7YFRjGIf_cuqwXy_nBMSDdjDfzsW3feJByxEfPWRSa0-kgc6ejAJ/s1600/DSC_2998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbh_-vKOPdcW3TxLwsdxIilTwcMEzfXQ1TECDPMY8zYPHyPYBwOZc45nk6LEj5BiLb8BZEfUSLVxKbg4iu0qjFOC5t7YFRjGIf_cuqwXy_nBMSDdjDfzsW3feJByxEfPWRSa0-kgc6ejAJ/s320/DSC_2998.JPG" width="320" /></a>Then I couched blue cord around the Tygers. Technically the Eastern Kingdom Tyger is blue on a field of yellow, but this looked good, and was still a nice nod at the East.<br />
<br />
With the embroidery done, and thoroughly steamed (Even being careful it gets a little lumpy while you're working it) all that remained was to baste the braided trim (six strand braid in two colors like <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihFoZblueZJ7AqC7PV-MBAa6c4LmO8dHALYZqyCnQtJ5A60MOgSHiRqjaWEakMEyc3YcIf04pA7XER3hqLPoqg7VjK1K051wth0EwFqLGrnnpAQlUSqX3UAzfOqwIisk-JmvTESEZSqbCz/s1600/DSC_2999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihFoZblueZJ7AqC7PV-MBAa6c4LmO8dHALYZqyCnQtJ5A60MOgSHiRqjaWEakMEyc3YcIf04pA7XER3hqLPoqg7VjK1K051wth0EwFqLGrnnpAQlUSqX3UAzfOqwIisk-JmvTESEZSqbCz/s320/DSC_2999.JPG" width="214" /></a>in the Haithabu fragment) over the darts, and make the shoulder straps. Although there are plenty of examples of Smokkrs with both the upper and lower loops out of linen, I decided that I preferred the look of the matching straps, and made the upper straps/loops out of a remaining scrap of purple wool. these were whip stitched down to the lining with my newly found blue linen thread, and my new EK Smokkr was done! and in plenty of time to wear to Birka. Of course Birka then didn't go as planned due to car trouble, and I missed the fashion show and only got to wear my new getup for a little bit. I did however, get to wear it with all my other fancy for walking into court at a part of my friend's pelican procession this weekend at dancing fox. I had the privilege of being the person who got to put together all the bits of his regalia cloak (it was a group project which a lot of hands worked on), and they asked me to carry it into court, which was a surprise and an honor! so I was happy that I had my new fancy EK Smokkr to wear. Now I just have to get an eye bleeding gold Serk to wear under it!<br />
<br />
Of course there are no actual pictures of me wearing it in which you can see the garb.<br /><b>Edited 4/19/18 to Add: Someone took a picture of me in it!</b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRfM-Amkrdrgf9BzESUIoNogQFVBXFLxmnpTOnh130Ba_BPBX-bol8jXyglt2IWUNI00uVKAZzpVaIbnflFAAttkyV97FrL942EaC5Hnxi4dRYGZlK29IqN68o7SNbJHZbDZSCFOGyyECn/s1600/30716759_10105307546461259_8926237287260356608_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1231" data-original-width="924" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRfM-Amkrdrgf9BzESUIoNogQFVBXFLxmnpTOnh130Ba_BPBX-bol8jXyglt2IWUNI00uVKAZzpVaIbnflFAAttkyV97FrL942EaC5Hnxi4dRYGZlK29IqN68o7SNbJHZbDZSCFOGyyECn/s400/30716759_10105307546461259_8926237287260356608_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></b></div>
<br />
<br />
A couple final notes: because it's more fitted through the body, it makes my serks shorter! ACK. So I will at least make my fancy court serk to wear with this longer. Also, this lay out doesn't lay as gracefully across my back as I would like, due to the previously noted curvature of my lower spine. I think I need to add a small center back gore to alleviate this problem and make the gown flow gracefully from top to hem. Possibly I could also flip the center back pieces so the angled edge is at the center back, and the straight edge at the side back and get a similar effect, although that would effect the side flare (which I like) some. As it is cut, there's a little wrinkle lump in the small of the back now, and there's not much I can do about it. I'm going to take the gown to my mom's and put it on inside out and see if with another set of experienced hands I can somewhat sort the problem, but alas, the only real solution is to put at least a small gore into the center back seam. Again, the pleated front smokkr doesn't have this problem. it's actually much more modest in fabric use as well. It's interesting the things you discover about fit while doing this sort of reconstruction work. I wonder if one of the reasons for the pleated fronts was because it provided good fit with less fabric. We'll never know of course, but it sure is fun to speculate! </div>
Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-58491933419816385452018-01-15T08:33:00.000-08:002018-01-15T08:33:17.093-08:00Viking hood and mittensI attended my first fall outdoors event this year, fighting at 100 minutes war in November with my household, and realized the week before the event that I haven't got warm outerwear for my fighting, thorsbjurg trouser clad self at all. As in ANY. My gear is designed with the 90 degree summer heat in mind, not 45 degrees and raining. In my armor, it's not as big of a deal: I have my gambeson, and can layer under it, and I'm moving, but out of my armor waiting for go? I was going to get COLD, and fast. Now there are a number of very good naalbound finds for vikings in terms of mittens and hats and suchlike, as well as some woven/fur edged caps. But I needed this fast, and didn't want to fiddle with naalbinding, (my understanding of which is rudimentary) and I wanted something a bit warmer than a cap. Headgear was easy enough. A couple years ago I researched and made a <a href="http://mousewerks.blogspot.com/2015/08/toddlers-skjoldehamn-hood-out-of-your.html">Skjoldehamn hood</a> for my toddler, so that was an easy, authentic, warm solution. Something for my hands was more difficult. I resorted to scrolling through google image search hoping to find something I hadn't seen before, and stumbled on these pairs of woven woolen mittens.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQR6eIHcUM0sDk1g3gjB6y77E89L-DdK88K26Gs_pErQhvO_5B9GnNlhzMI_FjVjojLQS0A56dLE-5GqJHqsMpxyRwY9URfNUnqlU6082ZxGjlD3IRbt8lU8VJOdiKjgx24sdnwMAwdBBf/s1600/viking+mitten+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="333" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQR6eIHcUM0sDk1g3gjB6y77E89L-DdK88K26Gs_pErQhvO_5B9GnNlhzMI_FjVjojLQS0A56dLE-5GqJHqsMpxyRwY9URfNUnqlU6082ZxGjlD3IRbt8lU8VJOdiKjgx24sdnwMAwdBBf/s320/viking+mitten+2.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBoMQJ33kOJB7EjMOYsINdg4bsuB-KWF-dTjEAxkp5y7dFOn9pJFdz3Xbz6b6mt1A4ph0pdp1gjhRA1NjNHUiAPEBvBEQJS4XXIJK-7oPw7ffc2pCkIQ1QAua7yEiWnspMMilCT10PqQHO/s1600/viking+mitten.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="333" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBoMQJ33kOJB7EjMOYsINdg4bsuB-KWF-dTjEAxkp5y7dFOn9pJFdz3Xbz6b6mt1A4ph0pdp1gjhRA1NjNHUiAPEBvBEQJS4XXIJK-7oPw7ffc2pCkIQ1QAua7yEiWnspMMilCT10PqQHO/s320/viking+mitten.jpg" width="213" /></a><br />
<br />
I managed to track these back to the national museum of Iceland, and confirm that they were from the viking era, but that was, sadly, all the information I was able to find on them. I was unable to locate them through the <a href="http://www.thjodminjasafn.is/english/">National Museum of Iceland</a> website, or find more information about them on a reverse image search. I could however copy them roughly from the pictures. The thumb is a standard pattern, exactly like the ones on my gloves. it even looked like it might have a gusset extending into the thumb from the hand, based on the seam lines. There was a gore inserted to the outside hand seam to give extra room. So far, so good. I used my glove pattern for a base, and drafted something that looked like it would work.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKxGqh6i3M1ZJjAXvJ2AnGA5vbwQGrEj6eesinawXhv5EF6uqm-xURoqAEtXbSf5QPu8tLRoSzhpWXoKsnxLRsLOU0vOW6N5GY_9q-sfND42Mva6Pno0iqp5E9XCwhIO87R1Fgxzq8NmPo/s1600/DSC_2638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKxGqh6i3M1ZJjAXvJ2AnGA5vbwQGrEj6eesinawXhv5EF6uqm-xURoqAEtXbSf5QPu8tLRoSzhpWXoKsnxLRsLOU0vOW6N5GY_9q-sfND42Mva6Pno0iqp5E9XCwhIO87R1Fgxzq8NmPo/s320/DSC_2638.JPG" width="214" /></a>I had to decide what fabric to use for these items. The gloves look like tabby weave, and the Skjoldehamn hood was as well. Color is hard to tell without chemical testing. I retreated to the B̶a̶t̶c̶a̶v̶e̶ basement to check the stash for possibilities. I had several likely suspects, all heavily fulled tabby woven wool, in varying shades of brown, and one piece of black. Now I KNOW that black is not even the smallest bit authentic for viking era. But my house's colors are black and red, and I had just acquired several hanks of red crewel wool. I couldn't resist. Besides the black was brushed to the fuzzy delightfullness of fleece on one side, which would be lovely on the interior of the hood and mittens. It was so fleecy that I questioned whether it was 100% wool, and lit a piece on fire. It is, indeed wool. Delightfully warm and beautifully fulled and brushed.<br />
<br />
Fabric choice made I traced the mitten pattern onto the fleecy side of the wool with my trusty silver metallic sharpie. (with supervision from Kitten) and cut them out.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil2ATO7aKg5me0V0tn1ksUV5vZtERGEmgUOvVi3nLUMWIjYr3mVJvf_LcsWBig4sUnZZjKzyIvbQJynLQaeuXCp0r7YgvAEFe37Qa8tDmWIFcyE_C0XCsnmnUS2s3jUxBscg7CGFkxXMm_/s1600/DSC_2639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil2ATO7aKg5me0V0tn1ksUV5vZtERGEmgUOvVi3nLUMWIjYr3mVJvf_LcsWBig4sUnZZjKzyIvbQJynLQaeuXCp0r7YgvAEFe37Qa8tDmWIFcyE_C0XCsnmnUS2s3jUxBscg7CGFkxXMm_/s320/DSC_2639.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The original mitten shows a standard seam at the thumb. I don't like the feeling of that against my hand, even with the seam allowances felled flat, so I overlapped and whip stitched, just like I do on gloves, and the seamed up the finger portion of the seams and felled the sides down flat.<br />
<br />
I used the same technique for the rest of the mitten, I overcast the gore on one side, for a decorative touch, then sewed the side seam, opened it flat, and felled it down with a running stitch. I used contrasting thread, and let the running stitch show on the outside. I have mixed feelings about this technique, which is currently quite popular amoung the SCA vikings. I've seen documentable evidence for interior overcast seams with contrasting thread, and herringbone'd hems with contrasting thread that showed on the outside as a double row of running stitch. The seams on the skjoldehamn hood were not felled at all (although the seaming method there tends to let make them lay flat) I tend to think this trend is a reenactorism, but haven't done the research to decide 100% yet. (If anyone has sources to point me at, please do share!) I chose to use it on the gloves because pretty and practical. I hate nubby seams on the insides of things on my hands!<br />
<br />
I had to fiddle a little with the shape of the top of the hand, but eventually got something I was happy with. Since I was in a hurry, I just cut the pattern a bit generous, then pinned, seamed, and trimmed to fit. I left the hems unfinished, which is the beauty of fulled wool.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK41Rtwa63z7swuQECWCIqSLFQ4u_e9E9hBpxCKaBtoG361KFvWiGNNaKHl76aVqKNGhdTtHgxOqBBpzPlEDQ3B6iSvVOduHbiPiLlBpHc69mIk-jgtMrYnrTQ030-IUrSRUAbpoF5wlMH/s1600/DSC_2641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK41Rtwa63z7swuQECWCIqSLFQ4u_e9E9hBpxCKaBtoG361KFvWiGNNaKHl76aVqKNGhdTtHgxOqBBpzPlEDQ3B6iSvVOduHbiPiLlBpHc69mIk-jgtMrYnrTQ030-IUrSRUAbpoF5wlMH/s320/DSC_2641.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I had decided I wanted to use a decorative seam on the hood. Van dyke stitch is very close to the osenstitch found overworking seams on one of the osberg garments, and it's a relative of the stitch found on the cushion at mammen. It has high plausibility and the advantage of running the seam at the same time as decorating it. (unlike the evils of the decorative members of that family, which is why my kaftan is in time out right now.... ) Van Dyke stitch is easiest if you first hem all the pieces, then work the stitch. So I hemmed all the pieces with a basic overcast stitch, mitering the corners of the front and back squares, and leaving the edges that would make up the hem raw.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaX_DqUjnXkRlaiPnsw8GM9XaAEEmVTmGRAuSw0mibS6GFQ1jAZgP-iA6Joxsotzq8pwbcu_tNhqwG6G4GQ7ojwTYAh5xr8tm99qlcrrZJQhmU78t-tIfU4DnCZPzHaUK9zZ-YWnXPAxWE/s1600/DSC_2640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaX_DqUjnXkRlaiPnsw8GM9XaAEEmVTmGRAuSw0mibS6GFQ1jAZgP-iA6Joxsotzq8pwbcu_tNhqwG6G4GQ7ojwTYAh5xr8tm99qlcrrZJQhmU78t-tIfU4DnCZPzHaUK9zZ-YWnXPAxWE/s320/DSC_2640.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
Then I pieced it together with van Dyke stitch. Van dyke, with it's cousins, can tend to ease one side of the seam in, causing a lopsidedly bunchy seam when you open and steam it, also ends that do not to line up. So I controlled that with pins. I worked right over the pins, instead of taking them out as I came up to them, forcing the two sides to remain the same length.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp23mqW0bWnljN425dCuZFOfKocBflm5xr_aw_pL0K12xIh6b71mCB_tEiaMzEm4F-NNzzMRfaahd8n4JZwXmMsQm_KaXyD-LVmMm6LjVYVD7x9OQTG72wJmNf0_Mh6uYA-F1JQc4BWAUM/s1600/DSC_2649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp23mqW0bWnljN425dCuZFOfKocBflm5xr_aw_pL0K12xIh6b71mCB_tEiaMzEm4F-NNzzMRfaahd8n4JZwXmMsQm_KaXyD-LVmMm6LjVYVD7x9OQTG72wJmNf0_Mh6uYA-F1JQc4BWAUM/s320/DSC_2649.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
I ran out of time, and hemmed in the car, on the way to the event (muttering THIS IS CROOKED the whole way, much to the amusement of the house brother I was riding with) which meant I just got the points hemmed before I wore it, and the face wasn't treated at all. But it worked like a charm, I wasn't exactly TOASTY but neither did I turn into a viking popcicle.<br />
<br />
It's hemmed with a overcast stitch, perpendicular to the edge of the fabric, and paralell with the threads of the weave, as in the extant piece. This is more moderately spaced than my last overcast edging, because this wool is too fulled to fray, and therefor It's much closer to the original. I darned the stitches at the points at the front and back on the reverse side, to keep them from spreading.<br />
<br />
I finished the hemming, and the stitching inside the hood opening when I got home. I did not stitch the cockscomb onto it, because I liked the fact that I could drop the hood almost over my face. It kept me warmer. I like this hood the way it is now, but am considering using it as a slate for some further embroidery. I think it would lend itself well to some mammen style work front and back, and maybe a pair of maltese crosses on the shoulders, since this is something I will basically only wear when I've put on my leg wraps and gone to war (to paraphrase the saga). The mittens, I decided to be super fancy and trim with a little grey fur.... because... pretty that's why. Caps were trimmed with fur, so I figure the mittens are plausible at least, although I fully admit it is a bit of a stretch.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQWrF3UiDF9bC47JdquTWjzN6Xfa6QGNiiRHCrwZNGJf3zMF9aNfGN8zeqS_rBtCcGjL8POAa1KywThSpA19y0TK5hrDoCIuSurRK0ectv331fJc8SK2b7dwW_M-oIvELsSWoQ0u1sIA2/s1600/DSC_2956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQWrF3UiDF9bC47JdquTWjzN6Xfa6QGNiiRHCrwZNGJf3zMF9aNfGN8zeqS_rBtCcGjL8POAa1KywThSpA19y0TK5hrDoCIuSurRK0ectv331fJc8SK2b7dwW_M-oIvELsSWoQ0u1sIA2/s320/DSC_2956.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Then that was so fun and pretty I decided to put a little black fur around the face of the hood. In for a penny in for a pound right? The result is pleasingly pretty, although I can't vouch for the strict historical accuracy of it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiP2cyEMRNA81Xs15dK7OAzaAs2v2b6uxMLDfgHhG4HHTaHM8anVIpIDq_JQw8GT5AHKgdKdHFLstSEokmcvJ4G_lTH9yrqMYtVr-wfnEEduX7fN1jf1MdGIDGYEwRALsrST2OVEwFxoT5/s1600/DSC_2974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1488" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiP2cyEMRNA81Xs15dK7OAzaAs2v2b6uxMLDfgHhG4HHTaHM8anVIpIDq_JQw8GT5AHKgdKdHFLstSEokmcvJ4G_lTH9yrqMYtVr-wfnEEduX7fN1jf1MdGIDGYEwRALsrST2OVEwFxoT5/s320/DSC_2974.JPG" width="297" /></a></div>
<br />
The only problem with the hood, is that it doesn't work well at all with a flat folded cloak. AT ALL. so if I want to wear it regularly I'm going to have to make myself something along the lines of a birka coat to wear with it. If I want to wear a cloak, I'm going to need to make myself a hat.<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-78159983313990693362018-01-10T09:37:00.000-08:002018-01-10T09:37:34.897-08:00A Soft Parry Cloak for Husbeast (with cutting diagram) <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPXUZfkOplM9J2hJZffpfN33a5IF7Fkt4DE8_dkXM6Gk2d9_x3NpId9vC67ZV63Dz16xIqGn2WO5s9by7-uiMcJoK_XqVXGdhQdEGY7mYvQC2fQ2q_R1HD_sa4_9RmZrFcsdpZGw1JW933/s1600/895dfe84a68e8f0eaa7f80fc9f6421e8--th-century-fashion-jacques-callot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPXUZfkOplM9J2hJZffpfN33a5IF7Fkt4DE8_dkXM6Gk2d9_x3NpId9vC67ZV63Dz16xIqGn2WO5s9by7-uiMcJoK_XqVXGdhQdEGY7mYvQC2fQ2q_R1HD_sa4_9RmZrFcsdpZGw1JW933/s320/895dfe84a68e8f0eaa7f80fc9f6421e8--th-century-fashion-jacques-callot.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1629 etching from <br />"Le Jardin de la Noblesse Française..."</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I'm not usually effected by "scope creep" the phenomenon where a project starts out simple, and then gains momentum until it's a jaugernot of complexity, for the simple reason that most of my projects start out at "crazy person" and go from there. But this one definitely hit that pitfall. What started as a "make something for the husbeast two days before christmas" project turned into..... Well, you'll see.<br /><br />For christmas this year, the husbeast got fencing gear. My contribution to the haul was was a small cloak for use as a soft parry. A soft parry can be anything floppy, a piece of leather, a towel, a floppy hat: but typically a small cavalier style cloak is used. Although the cavalier style cloak is very late in our period, and it's heyday seems to have been in the early 1600's, (along with the wide brimmed hat and floppy topped cavalry boots, it's one of the signatures of what we modernly think of as the "Musketeer" look) period fencing manuals do show people using a similarly sized cloth or cloak in defense.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUIbUwryunIIYkpb06WCbI77wyEEVtZrfjlw4AHy6ksOyooLkYcfehAR5E2GLrlBD8_srFpdxH9CuCnpa7YPr4s1TSIRpi-Nw-V-UYss3UoFd_TafI__badXOxhDcFMrwu2FDABJr1qFV0/s1600/d666357945c9da854afb8d1c07c91c5e--true-art-fencing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="262" data-original-width="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUIbUwryunIIYkpb06WCbI77wyEEVtZrfjlw4AHy6ksOyooLkYcfehAR5E2GLrlBD8_srFpdxH9CuCnpa7YPr4s1TSIRpi-Nw-V-UYss3UoFd_TafI__badXOxhDcFMrwu2FDABJr1qFV0/s1600/d666357945c9da854afb8d1c07c91c5e--true-art-fencing.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">diGrasse's True Art of Defense </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was, myself, unsure what a good size for this object would be. Husbeast has a small cloak taken from similar patterns in Patterns Of Fashion, made of wool, trimmed with velvet, and lined in silk. It fits him perfectly, but is manifestly too large to be used effectively as a soft parry. My conclusion was that, because of his size relative to normal humans, anything that would fit him as a cloak would be on the large side for use as a parry. So I consulted my rapier fighting house sister, and she measured her fiancee's cloak for me, which is heavier than she likes, but of a size suitable for a bigger guy. It's a wonderful pattern because it makes a very nicely draping cloak from a yard of 60" wide fabric, if you're willing to have a seam at the center back of the collar, or a yard and a quarter if you want the collar in one piece. It makes a very dashing shoulder cloak for a person of medium size, if not for my linebacker sized husband. Originally I did not plan to use the collar, since he won't wear it, but after I cut it and flapped it around a bit, I found the collar stiffens the neckline and makes gripping the cloak easier, as well as making it easier to fan the cloak out when you need to. I suggest using the collar even if you won't be wearing the cloak. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_6OJD_KHtvzeuFVNGd9Yub0OAFrKbLao87MT49n-W09zQf9cZc59wGVHmI0eUNV02EXcguRXiZhsYcwq2z_UPRQzIY38yVLiuSwnvkqbaNqbPf-d2mw5XbCoi9l915bxpdNZ048kYeOK3/s1600/DSC_2941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1176" data-original-width="1600" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_6OJD_KHtvzeuFVNGd9Yub0OAFrKbLao87MT49n-W09zQf9cZc59wGVHmI0eUNV02EXcguRXiZhsYcwq2z_UPRQzIY38yVLiuSwnvkqbaNqbPf-d2mw5XbCoi9l915bxpdNZ048kYeOK3/s640/DSC_2941.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting Diagram for 1 yard of 60" wide fabric. Half inch seam allowed at center back of collar. if you don't want a seam in the collar, use a yard and a quarter and cut the collar 13.5" long on the fold. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj79xS1MbwiMxeFHbnw5UASUurcBJUvaAhN-KOhRPjnW5JpVJn2ZMoTHDAauyQ-XwwJc8AP0Q0oEo9_BHzPUHT7pFF50CzLkkU1uG4eDbiC4uIG4HxZbmRkF98dVym2nswMCr5-50nzY08e/s1600/DSC_2898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj79xS1MbwiMxeFHbnw5UASUurcBJUvaAhN-KOhRPjnW5JpVJn2ZMoTHDAauyQ-XwwJc8AP0Q0oEo9_BHzPUHT7pFF50CzLkkU1uG4eDbiC4uIG4HxZbmRkF98dVym2nswMCr5-50nzY08e/s320/DSC_2898.JPG" width="214" /></a>I won't get into construction here, as this is a pretty simple project (and I didn't take any pictures) I will note that if you plan to wear the cloak you may wish to slightly curve the collar piece so it will lie flatter, up to you. In that case you would want to cut from a yard and a quarter. It is also preferable to cut the lining at the same time as the cloak, with the two layers pinned together, so as to avoid having them be different sizes. <br /><br />I am still trying to make things with only items I have on hand, so I used a brown faux suede material for the outside of the cloak, and a burgundy satin for the lining. The faux suede is sturdy, drapey, and slightly grippy, all useful in a soft parry. I added some appropriate trim I had in stash, wrapped it and stuck it under the tree.<br /><br />And this is when the scope creep happened. I kept thinking about how the trim was the perfect mount for spangles, and how it would sparkle in the light when he flipped it..... so with christmas safely past, I fished out my spangles and started applying them.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgkeiFLaBBFXh0MR0c6roiG-yL75oMs7yMGI9c3x1gmAW0zosYL-2Qaarmd_sFfh8UhnJgevpPhu-yr0hJyhCON3oW3-xAfzUCMMHpw1LsKJRvjCzSMWTgr7Ll7gGpOmKFXltBrgbJ-d5/s1600/DSC_2949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgkeiFLaBBFXh0MR0c6roiG-yL75oMs7yMGI9c3x1gmAW0zosYL-2Qaarmd_sFfh8UhnJgevpPhu-yr0hJyhCON3oW3-xAfzUCMMHpw1LsKJRvjCzSMWTgr7Ll7gGpOmKFXltBrgbJ-d5/s320/DSC_2949.JPG" width="214" /></a><br />
It takes a remarkable amount of time to spangle all of the everything, even on a moderately small cloak. I applied the spangles every other bunch on the trim, and knotted each one down with it's own knot, then ran the thread under the lining to the next spangle. This eliminated tails, but if he snags one and pulls it off, it will only be the one that is pulled off. The spangles are put down with Sulky 12 wt cotton, matching the lining, each sewn down with three equally spaced stitches, as seen in my favorite source book for these things: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Elizabethan-Stitches-Historic-English-Needlework/dp/0952322587" target="_blank">Elizabethan Stitches</a>.<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdt-tBShQfMWtrhtlpnKN_CDVww6TOYl4vJY90ZyLNzaj6zQxhS47-KvRv6Q9DqYdoK6Byn3EmoOQuDm8FlARf24xgi9EFgVukUyrvZgc6NJO12_Culy9ZqC80gvIyRzj-L6MmFaWmV35/s1600/DSC_2937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdt-tBShQfMWtrhtlpnKN_CDVww6TOYl4vJY90ZyLNzaj6zQxhS47-KvRv6Q9DqYdoK6Byn3EmoOQuDm8FlARf24xgi9EFgVukUyrvZgc6NJO12_Culy9ZqC80gvIyRzj-L6MmFaWmV35/s320/DSC_2937.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Then I decided those spangles looked a little lonely, and wouldn't some gold braid set it off. I have a cone of Krenik braid, but I also have a lot of semi worthless DMC metallic floss. Having just learned how to bobbin braid..... Well I separated the floss into strands, wound it onto bobbins, and braided it, two strands of gold, two strands of copper.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA7dL9wFp138hpj4ZlMDj4_sEOLqIMDop3eoodamC6dwDZ1V5sfnsgQYqSe44LQyX7QCgzwBpgNtbQquff6UA21a-aaXWq-q8uraodK6BfVzjmkm4J1rZfu4w5ttDUGtUF9SeDtd0YKH9f/s1600/DSC_2938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA7dL9wFp138hpj4ZlMDj4_sEOLqIMDop3eoodamC6dwDZ1V5sfnsgQYqSe44LQyX7QCgzwBpgNtbQquff6UA21a-aaXWq-q8uraodK6BfVzjmkm4J1rZfu4w5ttDUGtUF9SeDtd0YKH9f/s320/DSC_2938.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
and couched it down onto the cloak with the same 12 wt. cotton thread. I couched it fairly closely to prevent snags. Gold elements are seen couched both with matching silk threads, and with contrasting silk threads in period pieces (according to my same favorite source book.)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
There was enough braid to edge both sides of the trim and do a little fancy in the corners, I left the collar plain because with the multiple rows of spangled trim, the effect of adding gold braid was a touch frenetic. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhzGSPHG0SCdSV_H7kBH4v5tEaek9GqBxWtm6eaSxXY_HFZykPFFHtu2Sn672-42hBMRaqOtcJvZz14BGACiiW03GpWG0mi_VPI3pFszk9CyxVU-pzaDFgpI5mjMJjm_nMevaLW8CyLTA5/s1600/DSC_2942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhzGSPHG0SCdSV_H7kBH4v5tEaek9GqBxWtm6eaSxXY_HFZykPFFHtu2Sn672-42hBMRaqOtcJvZz14BGACiiW03GpWG0mi_VPI3pFszk9CyxVU-pzaDFgpI5mjMJjm_nMevaLW8CyLTA5/s640/DSC_2942.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
The only complaint I have, is working along the bias, it was easy to slightly stretch the fabric as you couched the cord down, you can see a few kinks in the cord where that happened. Not the end of the world but a little frustrating.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Pq7nz9H4janH9TlfKjYN9UNTuGmHkWUKbQEiPlS285txamX5X2q-9ugdI5OUXQDXWLy2eXh-foJiibSCIYy_hx12bnFDPaM7NMvTS0vjwu_AxN303s5sxXsAwpnqSMe0JrwHdXZjMJcB/s1600/DSC_2944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Pq7nz9H4janH9TlfKjYN9UNTuGmHkWUKbQEiPlS285txamX5X2q-9ugdI5OUXQDXWLy2eXh-foJiibSCIYy_hx12bnFDPaM7NMvTS0vjwu_AxN303s5sxXsAwpnqSMe0JrwHdXZjMJcB/s640/DSC_2944.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
Of course ideally this would have all been done before I put the lining on, but it does have the unintended benefit of stabilizing the edges of the lining, although it's not as tidy as it would have been if I had done it all before I lined it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsPGzNYRHq8HM2Ey_HHUSu2DN6yiKJ1yz9E5KwCZYU_BO9l0EJSoW47RkHpPa0ZzznNAD_yok1mOERydefw4P768K3ZqMJMyPamRjZee9xSXCD6-31Rr9VqP0M-NW1eYPH6Jl4XjlrOvfR/s1600/DSC_2947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsPGzNYRHq8HM2Ey_HHUSu2DN6yiKJ1yz9E5KwCZYU_BO9l0EJSoW47RkHpPa0ZzznNAD_yok1mOERydefw4P768K3ZqMJMyPamRjZee9xSXCD6-31Rr9VqP0M-NW1eYPH6Jl4XjlrOvfR/s640/DSC_2947.JPG" width="428" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
All in all a pretty outcome, and the Husbeast loves it. If you were going to wear it, you would add cords at the neck. since he isn't going to, they'd just be an encumbrance.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br /></div>
Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-60952530920808503332018-01-05T10:07:00.001-08:002018-01-10T10:14:14.585-08:00Dipping my toe in the deep end: My first pewter casting<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkd0l56r9tvaoR6BugXE5hCv6wDInGjSjVV2iwo5qLwtcv2S-bFjFqnoZX5ZNrwjJcmFD20rq6uF74R7VOOqGIjfWxbInsTNU1CWavwV5nYE5jnv3G6AsqnLf14JS7ThoevVfNfnd0UQVv/s1600/DSC_2236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1289" data-original-width="1600" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkd0l56r9tvaoR6BugXE5hCv6wDInGjSjVV2iwo5qLwtcv2S-bFjFqnoZX5ZNrwjJcmFD20rq6uF74R7VOOqGIjfWxbInsTNU1CWavwV5nYE5jnv3G6AsqnLf14JS7ThoevVfNfnd0UQVv/s320/DSC_2236.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sneak preview of finished product! I MADE A BUTTON. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
About a year ago, I decided, that even though I'm not that great with 3 dimensional art, it would be really awesome if I could make some of my own viking bling, so I could get exactly what I wanted at a price I could afford. That led to a flurry of research on metal casting, historical and modern, and the decision that Brass/bronze casting,which was the best choice for economical jewelry, was more than I had time to play with, more equipment than I had funds for, and generally that I needed yet another hobby like I needed a hole in the head. So I filed all the links for my research on a pinterest board, and let it sit.<br />
<br />
This summer I made the mistake of showing my husband some maltese cross button's I'd found in cast metal. I told him I thought they'd look great on his garb, but they were a little pricey. His response was to make puppy dog eyes and ask me if I could make them. I remained firm. I needed another project like a hole in the head. Husbeast then went online and posted the buttons, and before I knew it I had been elected, by general consensus, to spearhead a button making effort for the household in the fall..... There was some logic in this. I had poured pewter at a baronial workshop in the past, and gotten the feel for it pretty quickly. I had already done most of the research about metal casting, and although I'm not a great 3 dimensional worker, I can carve a wax positive of a button. I caved.<br />
<br />
Although in the modern world we're very fond of it, historically Pewter was a lower class metal that was accessible to the masses. I didn't even consider working viking jewelry in it, because for my persona I would have had plated brass or even silver jewelry. The hierarchy of metals for vikings seems to have been: Pewter, brass, plated brass, silver, gold. But in later periods pewter, particularly for buttons and dinner ware, was quite popular. Metal buttons were a status symbol, even made of lower quality metals like pewter.<br />
<br />
Pewter was, and is, the easiest of the metals to work: it doesn't require special heating equipment, a simple low heat crucible is useful, but you can melt it right on the stove, and you can pour it with a stainless spoon if you need to. Historically it has been available since at least roman times, and it was cast in soapstone, clay, or even antler molds. Because of the low melting temperature it doesn't destroy the molds as quickly, and it won't explode improperly made molds, spraying everything with molten metal and shrapnel, if you don't do it right (which is one of the major downside to casting other metals).<br />
<br />
Because 3 dimensional art is not my first choice, I wanted to work a positive, then cast a mold, rather than carving a negative (like you do in a soapstone mold) I felt more confident in my ability to get a good result this way. That got rid of the #1 choice for molds: soapstone. Historically clay molds were also used, but that requires the right mix of clay. In period vikings mixed clay, sand, and cow dung in precise proportions to make durable clay molds for mass producing jewelry like tortoise brooches. Although some people have made interesting strides down that road, I was just looking to dip my toes here, I needed something easy and accessible for the beginner. A little research led me to the unexpected discovery that bondo makes great pewter molds. You can cast it off a positive, and the result is carveable to add details, and sandable as well. It sounded ideal.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI_KVw6hc9buy_UFlRfPjKZ37VhzhYXpCbDzTa8EYrCkOFDb2WPeEkGkgdrf6kutnL2gANVwlRVZz9aTKTDWq0_2OXV-NcaC-jifj3FN1hWOcPt61vBBWBWJI7_g-KLrNhKJqJQAcbdgio/s1600/DSC_2227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI_KVw6hc9buy_UFlRfPjKZ37VhzhYXpCbDzTa8EYrCkOFDb2WPeEkGkgdrf6kutnL2gANVwlRVZz9aTKTDWq0_2OXV-NcaC-jifj3FN1hWOcPt61vBBWBWJI7_g-KLrNhKJqJQAcbdgio/s320/DSC_2227.JPG" width="214" /></a>With my idea set, and a little direction from my wonderful baron, who is a metal caster extraordinaire, I ordered my materials and set about carving a positive. This I actually did in the period approved way, starting with beeswax. I used a piece of copper tubing to cast a stick of button blanks, and cut a little tiny maltese cross point out of paper.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEtlbFMe4oZXK0kbmIGH2RGu8jyv7YjehHJ3xaRWZ_2KL7837tI9hEVf-DUlJEV2V32q2C7l0mVtbIIwAxpA41oqz4Yd_HeLznrmV_pwLKMb4_3V7TU-wB-ZFy6mOEnUw_cKwobY6zkZl/s1600/DSC_2229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwEtlbFMe4oZXK0kbmIGH2RGu8jyv7YjehHJ3xaRWZ_2KL7837tI9hEVf-DUlJEV2V32q2C7l0mVtbIIwAxpA41oqz4Yd_HeLznrmV_pwLKMb4_3V7TU-wB-ZFy6mOEnUw_cKwobY6zkZl/s320/DSC_2229.JPG" width="320" /></a>I worked on the face of the stick of beeswax, rather than cutting off a chunk, because it was easier to manipulate without hurting myself. I first rounded the top to a dome, then traced my maltese cutout with a pin. I filled that in with black sharpie so I could see what I was doing, then used an exacto to cut out the shape, and texture the background.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh30zMjZYlOxhfzf6Zqo6P0SeRCUpIfeFFQ2vbdwMpO9Vesrirb-zt-BoiIxylk25JD6D5GsWrtXCNg7dvP-IiB_3ICnUPLJrsBjTiCp9WjCp8zDlW-y9VAuxtqyuh-r4Cy_l0rOqIrFwp7/s1600/DSC_2228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh30zMjZYlOxhfzf6Zqo6P0SeRCUpIfeFFQ2vbdwMpO9Vesrirb-zt-BoiIxylk25JD6D5GsWrtXCNg7dvP-IiB_3ICnUPLJrsBjTiCp9WjCp8zDlW-y9VAuxtqyuh-r4Cy_l0rOqIrFwp7/s320/DSC_2228.JPG" width="320" /></a>The beauty of beeswax is that once you have a rough cut down you can detail with heat. You can even drip a little extra wax onto a spot you messed up and fix it. A fairly large needle, and a candle, and I was able to get all the details just right.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBY-8r2pHxQ-Slds1lI5x0Jn1ZZciuAQhM-2NvIpSwqXoBdX2I3KDitYYy7FM_up-BrebUWO7gJwd4QTqF5JKWfmkO87rImmjAAXlZqnYXUn5Ord4eSU-kPwjVEPQyw2zSk67QDvMJj26/s1600/DSC_2231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBY-8r2pHxQ-Slds1lI5x0Jn1ZZciuAQhM-2NvIpSwqXoBdX2I3KDitYYy7FM_up-BrebUWO7gJwd4QTqF5JKWfmkO87rImmjAAXlZqnYXUn5Ord4eSU-kPwjVEPQyw2zSk67QDvMJj26/s320/DSC_2231.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
Then I used a sharp knife to cut the button off the wax stick, and flattened the back with the hot needle. A hot wire would have probably worked best for this, but would have taken two sets of hands, one to hold the wax stick, one to cut.<br />
<br />
You will note that this button is just a flat disk with no hasp on the back. This isn't just because that would be a fiddly pain to carve out of wax, it's because it's almost impossible to cast a mold around a hasp. it's easier to carve it out in the mold.<br />
<br />
Husbeast made me a take apart 2 level wood frame for the mold, and I mixed the bondo. His Excellency had recommended submerging wire mesh around the button, both to stabilize the mold, and more importantly, to help dispense the heat, I had gotten the wire sculpting mesh from amazon, and cut a square and molded it into the half circle. I poured half the mold, smushed the wire down into the goop, and filled the rest of the mold. Then I stuck the button down into the bondo so that the back was even with the surface. So far, so good, I left and waited for the mold to set.<br />
<br />
And that's where everything went pear shaped. I didn't know that the chemical reaction that causes bondo to harden is exothermic, but I found out when I came back to check and found my wax positive a little jiggling puddle. Oops? Luckily the bondo had hardened enough to take a fairly good impression before it melted the button, so I was able to just use a knife and some sanding paper to clean up the edges of the impression, and come out with a good mold, but it was about 2x the work. Next time I will carve in wax, cast a plaster positive, and then use that to make my molds.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoSN5S2O5X_H6l7lCtlu8xzkzAF0m8Pc_tJD29Vv-qJ9saZoY-cF5zen2755oHwENVknV9E-2wDh6LLBCKWx0VnQtkZ_dOGFCZt5XZdQ3s4H3gD_ZrnVyAi_XNEW3t9m8x8oqLvkx9ajVV/s1600/DSC_2910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoSN5S2O5X_H6l7lCtlu8xzkzAF0m8Pc_tJD29Vv-qJ9saZoY-cF5zen2755oHwENVknV9E-2wDh6LLBCKWx0VnQtkZ_dOGFCZt5XZdQ3s4H3gD_ZrnVyAi_XNEW3t9m8x8oqLvkx9ajVV/s320/DSC_2910.JPG" width="320" /></a>Buttons have to be a 3 part mold if you cast them with a hasp. I cast the back as a solid flat slab, then had my husband cut it in half on the band saw. I marked the hasp on one half with marker, then quickly put the halves back together so the mark transferred. Then I carved out the hasp, and pouring funnel (sprue). Again on recommendation from his excellency, I carved the sprue out as a flattened funnel almost he entire width of the top of the button hasp, giving the pewter as little of a choke point as possible during pouring.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDxktCAOAe5ZrAHaj8l31y3z6CabShyphenhyphenkV6tx8hI6qOf7pu3SbfxPkXGYBWVoxXhiJQHDv_BbZ2JoHCj5D7kBm-FMTWIu46vC4zav4g6Tt92WFKIgtVgt8gDH5vUDQeLYKIP7ANyHk_hpo/s1600/DSC_2909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDxktCAOAe5ZrAHaj8l31y3z6CabShyphenhyphenkV6tx8hI6qOf7pu3SbfxPkXGYBWVoxXhiJQHDv_BbZ2JoHCj5D7kBm-FMTWIu46vC4zav4g6Tt92WFKIgtVgt8gDH5vUDQeLYKIP7ANyHk_hpo/s320/DSC_2909.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
My husband drilled holes in the pieces, and I pounded in pieces of coat hanger wire as pins, and we were ready to pour!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5swuKfD1YfiLxAZZ8lrq-gatsrntlO6YX1hgLbQXqZJhQwLREd_eDuNXkswfo2bMSvBjm0_Qv1N9PcsH2YQqpC9tLDOeEpH2rffkG-4QMRPpDJdHJFq7WfB_3hMb6aTwApMZ4-ESXQbe/s1600/DSC_2912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig5swuKfD1YfiLxAZZ8lrq-gatsrntlO6YX1hgLbQXqZJhQwLREd_eDuNXkswfo2bMSvBjm0_Qv1N9PcsH2YQqpC9tLDOeEpH2rffkG-4QMRPpDJdHJFq7WfB_3hMb6aTwApMZ4-ESXQbe/s320/DSC_2912.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I marked the sides so it would be easy to put it together the right way, the pins only fit one way, but the markings eliminate some fumbling.<br />
<br />
The first pours showed I needed to clean up the carving a little. Since bondo can be easily carved with a craft knife, and sands nicely, that was pretty easy, although tedious to get it just right. a couple hours and 4-5 test buttons later, I had a good mold.<br />
<br />
Which was good, because I had procrastinated (shocking I know) and was finishing this the night before we were supposed to have a household get together to make buttons! Because I procrastinated and then had some trouble (which is why you don't procrastinate) I only got one mold done, but it worked out ok. Even with a single mold, I could pour fast enough to keep ahead of 5 people trimming, sanding, and polishing the buttons. Which is the very tedious part of casting. Even with a firmly clamped well made mold, there's a lot of tidying up to be done between fresh casting and useable button! The only downside of the single mold was that it occasionally got too hot and had to be put in the freezer to cool down. Two molds I could have rotated in and out to keep them cool. Hot molds didn't cast as clean of a button. <br />
<br />
Many hands make light work and we managed to make about a hundred buttons in a day, enough for all of us and some left over. Everyone got to learn to pour, and we had a delightful feast of brisket and ribs provided by Husbeast afterwards.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4myJ78uJ9D-0wVfOiEs0Z1mI7MeAFvCm_GAO82cz9qQ1Ehmyz8CkUVtdpTtrHsrM3Pc20cBAYxLzRqCf3mDDkhlPUC4elDOKJ3MjQ2vHj76AG4bILqXiymbIFzpgupxicjOMW8N_0-jI8/s1600/DSC_2234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4myJ78uJ9D-0wVfOiEs0Z1mI7MeAFvCm_GAO82cz9qQ1Ehmyz8CkUVtdpTtrHsrM3Pc20cBAYxLzRqCf3mDDkhlPUC4elDOKJ3MjQ2vHj76AG4bILqXiymbIFzpgupxicjOMW8N_0-jI8/s320/DSC_2234.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I actually really enjoyed the process and I have some plans for other pewter casting projects coming up. I'd like to play with false enamel as well perhaps. I might even figure out a token for myself? Which is something I really should do but have dithered over.</div>
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-77925340948478602732017-12-18T11:49:00.000-08:002018-01-10T10:14:37.435-08:00Husbeasts favor, an experiment in hair work. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR73K0bPYFlulnnObYV_9tf_I0OGTCbAocUhrxaGtDsRZBg2mzxpr8bE3dnD0qWzeKSlXoCb8UM4ECpsw0rh_9HHTebT5Tzy-3kEDV6iqQ9tgmsVlaf8JACgIESeErhwlzpFnRiGNdb9N/s1600/LadysFavor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR73K0bPYFlulnnObYV_9tf_I0OGTCbAocUhrxaGtDsRZBg2mzxpr8bE3dnD0qWzeKSlXoCb8UM4ECpsw0rh_9HHTebT5Tzy-3kEDV6iqQ9tgmsVlaf8JACgIESeErhwlzpFnRiGNdb9N/s1600/LadysFavor.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">"Many an ensign of red, blue, and white, many a veil <br />and many a sleeve </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">were bestowed as tokens of love"</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">- Romances of Chretin de Troys,<br />Erec et Enid</span><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The SCA has the delightful habit of adopting some of the more grand romantic gestures from times past into the society and making them part of our own particular culture. To my mind, one of the best of these is fighters carrying favors onto the field, typically these favors will have been made for them by their romantic partner, although not always (one of my friends has carried a favor made by a child of marker on napkin onto the lists with great pride). This practice is rooted in the tournament tradition where a lady would give her "favor" to knight on the field, and as a visible sign of her support, she would give him an object to carry onto the field, one of her detachable sleeves, a scarf, a ribbon, could be tied around their arm, a handkerchief or similar small object could be tucked into the armor over the heart as a more private token.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHC4icGY6ULAFiBFviCm70y8G9eeJEeHZiUuYLbbtvdhjCjPpA-NQB04osFog5drayQ3BB8NIJCKlsVSbL1Ah8yGWQ6yNK7MyDsHdv1EhnmcdYbWvIW3nSqgBm7-byODxMhbQUek7Zi67/s1600/Codex_Manesse_Heinrich_von_Breslau.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1452" data-original-width="1027" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHC4icGY6ULAFiBFviCm70y8G9eeJEeHZiUuYLbbtvdhjCjPpA-NQB04osFog5drayQ3BB8NIJCKlsVSbL1Ah8yGWQ6yNK7MyDsHdv1EhnmcdYbWvIW3nSqgBm7-byODxMhbQUek7Zi67/s320/Codex_Manesse_Heinrich_von_Breslau.jpg" width="226" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A knight receives a token from a lady<br />
Manesse Codex</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The earliest mention of this seems to have been sometime in the 12th century, although the practice became more popular later, it still wasn't by any means as universal as the idea of it became when it captured the imagination of the victorians. In fact, it's reasonably difficult to separate the fact from the fiction in this instance. Very likely it was done in real life as well as period fiction, but exactly how, and what (aside from detachable sleeves) was given is somewhat unclear.<br />
<br />
For SCA purposes usually a belt favor or a scarf is given as a token to the fighter you support, whether just for that day, or in a long term relationship. Belt favors can also be used to show household and other allegiances. My children, for instance, each wear a belt favor with household arms, and their animal badge on them as ID tags: so if they get lost they can be returned to sender.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwRjccFzZj_gQYelujQ8_o6ko9-jCAm_TaKq7AjV09WYr4LkT4yYbz-CZA-lj9871OtNVWNvhxD7YAmx0G9zCDzMbu5yup-beYRXFJl3EIolZlmhErNwS32CyBXDgvlRUIjsF8FjNlaSD/s1600/DSC_1790.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwRjccFzZj_gQYelujQ8_o6ko9-jCAm_TaKq7AjV09WYr4LkT4yYbz-CZA-lj9871OtNVWNvhxD7YAmx0G9zCDzMbu5yup-beYRXFJl3EIolZlmhErNwS32CyBXDgvlRUIjsF8FjNlaSD/s320/DSC_1790.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
For my husband's favor, I wanted to make him something really special as a token of my affection. A way of taking my love with him into the lists, even though I frequently can't be there when he fights to cheer him on. I decided on a scarf, since he doesn't always wear a belt, and I made a design with my personal heraldry: a mouse, and my favorite flower: a rose. Many of the favors I've seen are linen, but I wanted to make this super fancy, but still sturdy, so I chose a tightly woven, plain weave shot silk in blue/green. My own arms that are on their way to being registered are green, and his are blue, so that seemed appropriate (not to mention my enduring love of iridescent silks. They were much loved in his persona's period too).<br />
<br />
With the design down, I had to decide on materials. I had read an interesting throwaway reference in my wonderful book <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Elizabethan-Stitches-Historic-English-Needlework/dp/0952322587/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1513364361&sr=1-1&keywords=elizabethan+stitches+by+jacqui+carey" target="_blank">"Elizabethan Stitches</a>" referencing Elizabethan's couching down all sorts of things to prettify embroidery design, human hair, feathers, anything pretty, and had been super excited. I've had a great interest in fiber arts using human hair for a long time, I enjoy the symbolism of it, and I think that as a love token it's particularly meaningful. I was super excited to find that it was a period thing, not just something thought up by the victorians, and decided to do the mouse, my personal symbol (based off a nickname the husbeast gave me long ago and far away) in my own hair. Since that is a couched technique, Idecided to make this piece a couching sampler. I had seen stems in another piece, part of a glove, worked in gilded leather couched with gold, so I decided to do that for the woody rose stems. Likewise I had seen floral elements on extent gloves filled with sort of squiggled couched threads, I chose to do that in silk for the floral elements of the design.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiVEDqHFpAY811hrnBnuZ3eUZgb0z4GTCZdZ61-oQkZXRAdtc2aKYisWt9NNPK2VJFxRNuv9Pl-qIo4XQIKmEQgoeBU3Eu5QDfD_KJ1CQhSZrT5mzq1QkQTlZjJQxQlU-Yh8RbCzqFFVhX/s1600/DSC_2193.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiVEDqHFpAY811hrnBnuZ3eUZgb0z4GTCZdZ61-oQkZXRAdtc2aKYisWt9NNPK2VJFxRNuv9Pl-qIo4XQIKmEQgoeBU3Eu5QDfD_KJ1CQhSZrT5mzq1QkQTlZjJQxQlU-Yh8RbCzqFFVhX/s320/DSC_2193.JPG" width="214" /></a>I used my fancy new white permanent<a href="https://sublimestitching.com/collections/tools/products/carbon-transfer-paper" target="_blank"> transfer paper</a> on this project and it worked GREAT. I really suggest it for working on dark materials. it doesn't smudge, and it's easy to work with. I bought it for the gloves of doom, and was trialing it here.<br />
<br />
First I cut the stem portion from the gilded leather, and couched it down, then I couched a thread along each side of it to outline it. The extant piece I had seen was likely worked over in ladder stitch, which I did not do here, because I didn't think I could control the curve of the leather as well. I will try that another time. I tried outlining the leaves with couching, since my original intent was to use nothing but couching on the whole piece, but it was so clunky, I tore it out and went to stem stitched outlines for the leaves, which were much more pleasing. I continued to stem stitch the outlines for the rest of the piece.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPKpksYlCf9PKICYwiQiDygv9jZmmPfvRThr-k6Iv7EWC_hjeQexfv2iO9doqyC5BisWZFfZ_cuUybojUP6w-o_bmfRZNdRkbfq-WYnrj1VpnZ0Y-47xGEl6BH4CV0oHqwvjDKeU8rarW/s1600/DSC_2194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYPKpksYlCf9PKICYwiQiDygv9jZmmPfvRThr-k6Iv7EWC_hjeQexfv2iO9doqyC5BisWZFfZ_cuUybojUP6w-o_bmfRZNdRkbfq-WYnrj1VpnZ0Y-47xGEl6BH4CV0oHqwvjDKeU8rarW/s320/DSC_2194.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
With the outlines set, I began to fill, using three strands of floss stitched down with a single strand of the same floss. Because the area was small, and because I wanted it to be snag proof, I worked the fill on a very small scale, very tightly stitched, and very small turns in the thread. Techniques like this would have been popular in period (and indeed are still popular with me!) because they would have used the expensive silk to the best advantage: hardly any of it is wasted on the back of the work.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaiG55rJ3a0cO_u2tTtpinwJNCdVG-zEuI1kLxaOamCnIfGdinTspxydAAkC7D3luPPQxY2plTxxKChhhhR7CriTFyMIu3rarHOtAgbjfFDAAxpMXdH9fklRMXjJPH-VS8pP7eUWLTSiow/s1600/DSC_2210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaiG55rJ3a0cO_u2tTtpinwJNCdVG-zEuI1kLxaOamCnIfGdinTspxydAAkC7D3luPPQxY2plTxxKChhhhR7CriTFyMIu3rarHOtAgbjfFDAAxpMXdH9fklRMXjJPH-VS8pP7eUWLTSiow/s320/DSC_2210.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
with the leaves filled I went onto the flower, outlined in stem stitch, and decided on some shading to highlight the petals. I drew on the shaded areas with white colored pencil, and filled them in with couching in pink silk, being careful to leave edges that I could fill in against easily with the darker color.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzxWcT69j3kN3jE-_rNUs8_ax2wT8J42hTmugiqjkfdxw16zgi4Oe31nm_TIWPjkb2aELI5TSulHaXnf7K0icGf7GgHnufeE8hgxhNd3COdqvO7TSFjZ_wgRW_asvjnURsLwwTtX62Kw53/s1600/DSC_2224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzxWcT69j3kN3jE-_rNUs8_ax2wT8J42hTmugiqjkfdxw16zgi4Oe31nm_TIWPjkb2aELI5TSulHaXnf7K0icGf7GgHnufeE8hgxhNd3COdqvO7TSFjZ_wgRW_asvjnURsLwwTtX62Kw53/s320/DSC_2224.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Then onto the dark fill, still working in the same manner. I started and finished the couched threads by pulling them through the work to the backside with a large needle and then running them through some of the stitch loops on the back, avoiding any large knots I might have to try and stitch through/around. I started and finished the couching threads with small sewing knots. The scale of the work is still very small. The silk fill was a little faster to work than opus anglicanum/split stitch, and MUCH more thread saving. I worked the dark fill of each rose petal in an evening's worth of embroidering.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBXidDBky-T5q8u6m67z4P4TBFNkPG2J_MUU_Al3-YpZ4GZrizJXdGawLArlAy2XC1Ea1KQ-yLDaUKn5U4y1We_Iat2QXjQK2x94iOqfX6JkNNCrZY9kJTM2uYB0wBa85RDEagxb4dsrb3/s1600/DSC_2657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBXidDBky-T5q8u6m67z4P4TBFNkPG2J_MUU_Al3-YpZ4GZrizJXdGawLArlAy2XC1Ea1KQ-yLDaUKn5U4y1We_Iat2QXjQK2x94iOqfX6JkNNCrZY9kJTM2uYB0wBa85RDEagxb4dsrb3/s320/DSC_2657.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
With the rose finished, I outlined the mouse in silk that matched the variegation of color in my hair. I have a bunch of cut hair from me chopping it all off after various pregnancies (when it would start falling out), which ranges from the almost brown of my roots, to sun and bleach lightened ends. I wanted to use that variegation in color to highlight the shapes with subtle shading, and so outlined the various portions of the mouse with different shades of brown, to accentuate that eventual shading.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcEK3Mx9_qETGhn2HeWJUA0ylBxw9wDgp_tk9HwOA9gVfucHZaGfs9bAh9zHUNa-KVRjQWOMgpuig1Q5E0wJEZR8T5TaDQOOnVf0ow397PRC95l1SdAL8rXO5PdTq_5UsdJ7jj4nKMCYcH/s1600/DSC_2658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcEK3Mx9_qETGhn2HeWJUA0ylBxw9wDgp_tk9HwOA9gVfucHZaGfs9bAh9zHUNa-KVRjQWOMgpuig1Q5E0wJEZR8T5TaDQOOnVf0ow397PRC95l1SdAL8rXO5PdTq_5UsdJ7jj4nKMCYcH/s320/DSC_2658.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
As soon as I started working with the hair, it was clear that it was going to be tricky, time consuming, and require lots of patience and concentration. First, it was hard to start the hair. I used the technique used with gold passing thread (shown in "elizabethan stitches), and stitched a tail down with small whip stitches to the reverse, knowing that the stitches would be covered by the fill. Even so, a gentle tug would pop the tail right out of the stitches.<br />
<br />
Then it became instantly obvious that I wasn't going to be able to turn the hair at the ends of the rows like I could other threads (much less use it for the free form fill I had been doing!), it was simply too springy, and the loops wouldn't properly close. So I started working in linear couching, keeping the hair threaded onto a large needle, and would pop each row through the fabric at the end, then come back up for the next row, rather like working the thread saving variant of satin stitch. I was able to come up and down under the stem stitch outlines, so you can't see the starts and finishes, it just looks like the hair disappears under the outlines.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Btvcr370edEmhIOCRo1MC5f2HEK2HIKGRx0TKf74zio_wSg9qq6qMfZJOCOyUe7i6xQkJcLshBEBsteECzUVhOq3frdE6ne5R4EMmg97PpB5gZ3PWVTpVddkYW9P0pEseoFnNhBKgFX3/s1600/DSC_2659.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6Btvcr370edEmhIOCRo1MC5f2HEK2HIKGRx0TKf74zio_wSg9qq6qMfZJOCOyUe7i6xQkJcLshBEBsteECzUVhOq3frdE6ne5R4EMmg97PpB5gZ3PWVTpVddkYW9P0pEseoFnNhBKgFX3/s320/DSC_2659.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Here's the reverse of the work showing the long tails I left starting and finishing on the ears. Since I only wanted the dark root portion of the hair, I couldn't use the whole strand. I left the tails, then stitched them down and trimmed them short once I had a few.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8-FkKN88L4Q2-YJV4LmYSYNPT5Sp0nFEbczkMgMRhu8vkGPV7rkeGwlE2DvFTTOWICcZEIrFamexstPQmQO38ZMG28j7uPjhoihXnqBpyhGzSSDoV0hlyVtONcf9RO9RoJ8pZN8_HmlM9/s1600/DSC_2748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8-FkKN88L4Q2-YJV4LmYSYNPT5Sp0nFEbczkMgMRhu8vkGPV7rkeGwlE2DvFTTOWICcZEIrFamexstPQmQO38ZMG28j7uPjhoihXnqBpyhGzSSDoV0hlyVtONcf9RO9RoJ8pZN8_HmlM9/s320/DSC_2748.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
in progress on the inside of one of the ears.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1f0q-P4fHoKgxAVFapTfmBzwqS86gM9T1iE9GoPtZSyWyIUCPowKWekqkL0q8VOxZbXRBU0nEww78lvbF3ZAG7BlbFyUdn3IiDR2U1Dleg9GBNtFUQDeGx1WzFxlaex2jXFmTqxLMRvqy/s1600/DSC_2751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1137" data-original-width="1585" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1f0q-P4fHoKgxAVFapTfmBzwqS86gM9T1iE9GoPtZSyWyIUCPowKWekqkL0q8VOxZbXRBU0nEww78lvbF3ZAG7BlbFyUdn3IiDR2U1Dleg9GBNtFUQDeGx1WzFxlaex2jXFmTqxLMRvqy/s400/DSC_2751.JPG" width="400" /></a>I ended up taking a hint from Opus Anglicanum with the mouse, and using the direction of the lines of couching to help show the shape of the creature as much as the changes in color. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The mouse was the last of the embroidery, all that remained was to take it off the frame, fold it in half, sew it into a tube, and turn it out as a scarf. I finished JUST in time for Husbeast to take it to Kings and Queens rapier championships with him. When he gets home I will properly top stitch all the edges to keep it flat, and finish the (currently unfinished selvedge) ends. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY94utYPCazg7HpvXh8d8VMCKYtRPTXVNbg-pSJKEZGUzolK3H027Etu9ghT93QHcbq6DGm3qrBQC5t-KfJqXKChih0viOjCYn1l6ElE-_9BiUu1pD8Jilhq4dmh0flBe_dSBKdB2vc9Tf/s1600/DSC_2752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY94utYPCazg7HpvXh8d8VMCKYtRPTXVNbg-pSJKEZGUzolK3H027Etu9ghT93QHcbq6DGm3qrBQC5t-KfJqXKChih0viOjCYn1l6ElE-_9BiUu1pD8Jilhq4dmh0flBe_dSBKdB2vc9Tf/s640/DSC_2752.JPG" width="428" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I asked the husbeast to take a picture of himself wearing the favor at tournament so I could post it, and he sent me this: such a comedian.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7y6hr2yMgjWYmN66RF2YcUffjrhhFFDW5cRIfc8gpz0tyRqsgzRTf55gEuelS-OzXd52DTDbCFsb0dfxj0DdOO8LmKiqhbALRQhIt5Dmc7eFq8vB-8DBiEkpGHGXxve_i6EnWSWZUPKVp/s1600/2017-12-18.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7y6hr2yMgjWYmN66RF2YcUffjrhhFFDW5cRIfc8gpz0tyRqsgzRTf55gEuelS-OzXd52DTDbCFsb0dfxj0DdOO8LmKiqhbALRQhIt5Dmc7eFq8vB-8DBiEkpGHGXxve_i6EnWSWZUPKVp/s400/2017-12-18.png" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Evidently it was sliding down his arm, so he tied it on his belt instead. I don't know if he couldn't get it tied tightly enough over the elbow by himself, or if it's just slippery. The solution will be either a small fabric loop attached to the sleeve, or a safety pin. I'm leaning towards the fabric loop on the sleeve because it will be easier for him to do that himself. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here's a good article about love tokens in history and the SCA</div>
http://www.florilegium.org/?http%3A//www.florilegium.org/files/ACCESS/p-favors-art.html<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-15868251969521324182017-11-21T12:11:00.000-08:002018-01-10T20:21:21.879-08:00In Search of Armor: Kidney beltWith my gambeson done, I could start on the rigid layers of my kit, which needed to be fitted over the padded garment to avoid accidentally ending up with something that didn't fit at all. I decided to start with my kidney belt, which will go under my tunic. I had some dilemma over how to design this item. Most of the guys who use a kidney belt sort of protection just use a straight belt. For someone with as much hip as I have, that didn't sound like a comfortable option, especially with the weight of my leg gear hanging off of it. It seemed like the best solution would be to have it extend slightly over my hips, not far enough to limit motion, but far enough to solidly seat the weight there and keep it from digging in. I immediately thought of the shape of a "waspie" corset. It seemed to me to be the ideal amount of coverage, so long as it was adapted to be snug, but not create a reduction in waist measurement.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-xB_T4oWMMW3AOaaEjH9gLRXs9qAtxRsR3H427gthB73-_75Qq0ehOmiHEfOJopnK-98Xyn8NA3-bgfQafZs3985CnP1ybgACjOdV8y8XEVtEFrcYeSDYnDRevCM9vuznjg0zeLnclXQM/s1600/DSC_1967%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-xB_T4oWMMW3AOaaEjH9gLRXs9qAtxRsR3H427gthB73-_75Qq0ehOmiHEfOJopnK-98Xyn8NA3-bgfQafZs3985CnP1ybgACjOdV8y8XEVtEFrcYeSDYnDRevCM9vuznjg0zeLnclXQM/s320/DSC_1967%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>I set about making a pattern. Drafting from my block, I made a basic short, 8 panel corset pattern, fastening on either side of a center front panel to allow adjustments in waist size. I cut it out in some canvas, and fitted it, taking tucks where it needed to be reduced. Once the fit was comfortable, I transferred the alterations to the patterns, and then double checked the final waist measurement of the mockup against my own. It was exactly the same, so I reduced the front panel a little further to allow room for lacing.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhSjTQCdnbh06yKpSQ5g15fm22RnruwudPoABEJ9o9uwJ3XMaSS0KiRXsT_vXSPpyV4uwVus9FGNoS_5wwCGKokGXffcyTCsw2Bl6qx_7b0bpcpyIzsz2dB1K2eXN8E-aCJLph7F9lVe3h/s1600/DSC_1968%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhSjTQCdnbh06yKpSQ5g15fm22RnruwudPoABEJ9o9uwJ3XMaSS0KiRXsT_vXSPpyV4uwVus9FGNoS_5wwCGKokGXffcyTCsw2Bl6qx_7b0bpcpyIzsz2dB1K2eXN8E-aCJLph7F9lVe3h/s320/DSC_1968%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">you will note that I have both the number and<br />
an arrow on every one of these patterns. Corset<br />
patterns can be ambiguous as to which way is <br />
up. Using an arrow means you won't put<br />
them together wrong. it's worth the time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I had originally planned to just cut the panels directly out of heavy leather, then lace them together. After further thought I decide that this was inadvisable. People who make corsets become aware, quickly, that leather, although beautifully stiff, and not needing extensive boning, stretches and distorts under pressure. Particularly if it has moisture and heat. Strapped to the body of a hot sweaty fighter seems like the perfect situation for leather to stretch totally out of shape, particularly given mumblety mumblety pounds of leg harness hanging from it. So I decided that a better option would be to rivet the leather plates directly to a fabric base, a fabric base made of something not terribly stretchy, but still comfortable and breathable. The corsetierre in me immediately suggested coutil as the best option. Although this belt wouldn't experience the pressure exerted on my corsets, it does share some of same attributes. As a bonus, I still had some good quality german coutil lying around, so I fished it out and traced the pattern.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjitd8TxKTiSVPq9xANi8IsHXFr5P9Uij7GXoLHWL7df2RpkdZKz7pifGjcMlYHggaL44Bd6pU4b498JwNsrz1xHK6r_qdqfi-z6p-K3j_zCHuyBFDqZvqyCXIU58_Sz2gM1X6cOoYL-c/s1600/DSC_1970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifjitd8TxKTiSVPq9xANi8IsHXFr5P9Uij7GXoLHWL7df2RpkdZKz7pifGjcMlYHggaL44Bd6pU4b498JwNsrz1xHK6r_qdqfi-z6p-K3j_zCHuyBFDqZvqyCXIU58_Sz2gM1X6cOoYL-c/s320/DSC_1970.JPG" width="320" /></a>How to manage the seams was the next question. When I make corsets I prefer to use an elaborate folded seam system that eliminates bulk and creates a boning channel. This wasn't going to NEED boning channels, and the origami element of that seemed tedious and unnecessary. I could likewise just put the seams to the outside, and hope the riveted leather plates would cover them. That seemed like leaving too much to chance though. if the seams worked free and poked out between the plates it would be unsightly and it wouldn't wear well. I finally decided on a partial lining to cover the seams as being easy, attractive, and practical. Seam binding would have worked too, but I still had some of the skull fabric from my gauntlets lying around and wanted to use it, and it wouldn't have shown to advantage cut into small strips for seam binding.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiiim6Rd50uyug6I31WOA5aV-xLNxawwlJtIcx-_IDZEnLOQSpWB0keYWrucL5n6L27d0dpyewMA65ARa2NWqvIHguuw27XwSVYsUe86wlJIL2Ihg3VnI6OBeREGibU_xk65T4Jt6vuPWI/s1600/DSC_1973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiiim6Rd50uyug6I31WOA5aV-xLNxawwlJtIcx-_IDZEnLOQSpWB0keYWrucL5n6L27d0dpyewMA65ARa2NWqvIHguuw27XwSVYsUe86wlJIL2Ihg3VnI6OBeREGibU_xk65T4Jt6vuPWI/s320/DSC_1973.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Once I got it all together I wrapped it around me and bent back and forth a couple times. This set a wrinkle at the waist, which marks the spot for me to sew in a waist tape, a further precaution against stretching out of shape. Probably overkill, but a 10 minute investment now guards against a total re-do six months down the road.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVmpTFJd1qEoUnh3Ra5SQIe4wShiZUrH9f86aksI6Qgmf63iQ3nBgnuxWr-Ml4XynEWMp7dFcnv7Mo4gB5ynGFsA5iL_YR2BDL_uDIIwVRCEXOHOAX43emg6iQAXb_PcFAlsT4S65qywJA/s1600/DSC_1974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVmpTFJd1qEoUnh3Ra5SQIe4wShiZUrH9f86aksI6Qgmf63iQ3nBgnuxWr-Ml4XynEWMp7dFcnv7Mo4gB5ynGFsA5iL_YR2BDL_uDIIwVRCEXOHOAX43emg6iQAXb_PcFAlsT4S65qywJA/s320/DSC_1974.JPG" width="320" /></a>Waist tape on, I bound all the edges with bias tape. Bright red and black are the colors of the household I fight with, so it seemed like a good choice. Plus I like the red with the silver skulls. The belt was now ready to have the armory bits riveted to the outside of it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIY2t5KStSwbWuZAyO5Xjj1c93TC4cKyeUy3eSOfonGm5QMzSEj0l-LGZNvmFkwhCYe6u-8AQVp8qy2eJ3NAFaLj0X94jjyxyyf4S0hxPJ0H3jwdNANmkOFnl_Kfq3w5SRzySg4iwepWff/s1600/DSC_1975%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIY2t5KStSwbWuZAyO5Xjj1c93TC4cKyeUy3eSOfonGm5QMzSEj0l-LGZNvmFkwhCYe6u-8AQVp8qy2eJ3NAFaLj0X94jjyxyyf4S0hxPJ0H3jwdNANmkOFnl_Kfq3w5SRzySg4iwepWff/s320/DSC_1975%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>To do this I first folded back the seam allowance on all my pattern pieces, and traced them onto leather with the tip of my awl. I cut them out carefully with an exacto knife, and rounded off any sharp corners a bit. Then I punched even holes along the vertical edges for rivets. Now I had to decide whether I was going to water shape them or not. I didn't want the belt to be rigid, like my gauntlet backs, or even as hard as my hot water hardened rerebraces, but it was instantly obvious that the pieces over my hips and the center back would HAVE to be shaped. I decided in the end to wear it for a while and see if heat and sweat would be enough to shape it, or if it needed to be sprayed with water and cinched down to take a better shape.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjM0Vjb6udrg-k1b0DtwHyP02eveeZv-7ZwUdEDEVW3BhfCOgZELkhpYoIOnulbaEwhb2pO2swJb07HjXmsgdOCfq1t73731gA4f6qfNmhVxEncTYMK73CN90fazvK-7i3zIhMSk4v4ZKZ/s1600/DSC_2642.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjM0Vjb6udrg-k1b0DtwHyP02eveeZv-7ZwUdEDEVW3BhfCOgZELkhpYoIOnulbaEwhb2pO2swJb07HjXmsgdOCfq1t73731gA4f6qfNmhVxEncTYMK73CN90fazvK-7i3zIhMSk4v4ZKZ/s320/DSC_2642.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAnyokdBMxgq32QwJDS5kJ-v_9r3nY3gk4Z3GXwaXuFxj47eXS1OqaR1uBWm0HBWZEGTQX4IhqrnXNszTgQPZ4EU-4kzvbjWUzEISmGZfjfU1MnfbiEKGuFTPlzy1DvlsWAt8IuFlMFC9L/s1600/DSC_2643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAnyokdBMxgq32QwJDS5kJ-v_9r3nY3gk4Z3GXwaXuFxj47eXS1OqaR1uBWm0HBWZEGTQX4IhqrnXNszTgQPZ4EU-4kzvbjWUzEISmGZfjfU1MnfbiEKGuFTPlzy1DvlsWAt8IuFlMFC9L/s320/DSC_2643.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The remainder of the construction was annoying and time consuming, but not difficult. I lined up the leather panels with the corresponding fabric panels, making a hole with my tailors awl, I inserted a small pop rivet, and riveted on the leather onto the fabric. Then I mounted d-rings and straps to the front. I also punched holes for laces to point my current set of legs on. I'd like to eventually buckle the legs rather than tie them, but these aren't' my final legs (and I'm not even sure what I"m going to do for final legs yet) so I decided pointing them on was the easiest method for now.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGfKu4-gc_9HIB7uBO3ngD9v1cCrBeXJW8XI0gPTf22iqZTk-9FhTWeUelKfHYiM3FJYyqRe8VLu6ia-e1Mrf3AUJbPE8gZD3Vi64HFCboaoBDbsEctyfzdNLfufnIbMpUTNM6qGdnaeQf/s1600/DSC_2644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGfKu4-gc_9HIB7uBO3ngD9v1cCrBeXJW8XI0gPTf22iqZTk-9FhTWeUelKfHYiM3FJYyqRe8VLu6ia-e1Mrf3AUJbPE8gZD3Vi64HFCboaoBDbsEctyfzdNLfufnIbMpUTNM6qGdnaeQf/s400/DSC_2644.JPG" width="267" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ihQEXZhLSnVf_ByBCt5Hkj8JtCYccLRLnop7XTpXE7XkS8v7gjg_A4DxG48OW_XbHcvzD2R5e5_I03zSYuBEalkLWK59EjSCDcTPnPA5Iq8RkU-qKb_iAQx3ZJ-4WCoLGk-VS3hi68Hx/s1600/DSC_2648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ihQEXZhLSnVf_ByBCt5Hkj8JtCYccLRLnop7XTpXE7XkS8v7gjg_A4DxG48OW_XbHcvzD2R5e5_I03zSYuBEalkLWK59EjSCDcTPnPA5Iq8RkU-qKb_iAQx3ZJ-4WCoLGk-VS3hi68Hx/s400/DSC_2648.JPG" width="267" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
Shakedown cruise proved that the concept is GREAT. Very comfortable, good protection. My leg armor stayed put beautifully, and the weight was much more comfortably supported than by belt or pourpoint. The heat and sweat did adequately shape the panels, so I don't think further shaping will be necessary. On the down side, the sythentic strapping I used in the d-rings is slippery when it's sweaty, and so the belt doesn't stay cinched. Also evidently my pop rivets can't get enough purchase through the strapping to be secure long term, and I did lose a strap. I also found I didn't really need d-rings for adjustment on both sides, since really it was most comfortable completely closed. I ended up attaching one edge permenantly, and using cotton strappping and D-rings on the other side. If it continues to slip out while I fight, I can always go to buckles.Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-67390420245165640932017-11-14T12:26:00.000-08:002018-01-10T20:21:56.615-08:00Dress Houpelande for a Companion to the HouseAlthough my persona is 10th century viking, my Household that I am in the process of trying to join, is 15th century german. So if we show us as a household in dress, it's ALL the Houpelande's and Dags and shiny boots (If you're a guy). As a female fighting household member (when and if I make it that far) the uniform is less clear, but it's still very much 15th century. As a companion to the house (I have expressed interest in joining, but the house hasn't expressed interest in me yet. a sort of pre probationary period lasting at least 6 months) I wear a black tabard when I fight. For full dress, it's a bit complicated. If I was a guy, I would make myself a nicer black tabard and still wear the tabard. As a female, it looks dumb, and it's not appropriate for any period to wear a tabard belted over my clothes. With Fall crown tourney coming up, and several of the guys in the house throwing their hats in the ring (two of them with a good chance of winning) All of us coming to cheer have been requested to show up in full house formal dress. I decided that me in my viking undergown with my tabard belted over it and my bare feet LIKELY wasn't what they had in mind, although it's the strictest interpretation of the rules. But the rules were designed for male garb, not female. I decided, after consultation with the other fighting female household member, to wear a female houpeland in unrelieved black (like my tabard) this provides a nice continuity of look between the male house members and the female, while still maintaining distinct gender for those who wish to.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-O5HWNTVjwC1ebjZ43WZQmBRm3esStXgOVBpgj2W2EROCQBKtx-nQKTTw4BkQi9UrQqrp0H91_ZY2MN3RBb5_dn__HsZV8DKxF1ku01mramj32V4x2kqt6XPxwP4as2NGSOyFQvbssK6/s1600/houpelande+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="452" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-O5HWNTVjwC1ebjZ43WZQmBRm3esStXgOVBpgj2W2EROCQBKtx-nQKTTw4BkQi9UrQqrp0H91_ZY2MN3RBb5_dn__HsZV8DKxF1ku01mramj32V4x2kqt6XPxwP4as2NGSOyFQvbssK6/s320/houpelande+1.jpg" width="235" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">both figures here wear houplandes<br />
Boccaccio "Livre des cleres et Noble Femmes"<br />
ca 1404 </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's really a very simple garment; almost exactly the same as the male version. Other than a few deviations in collar style, the only obvious difference between the two garments is that, while the men's came in numerous lengths (from just past the crotch to floor length), Women's Houpelande were limited to floor length (or super exorbitantly long so you had to carry it.) It's one of the few times in history that I can think of where male and female clothing were almost exactly the same, which is interesting (excepting the way back when when people basically wore tunics and long tunics.)<br />
<br />
As previously mentioned, there are several variations of the neckline for the women's Houpelande, Since the idea is a uniform look (pardon the pun), we chose the high neck to match the style that the men wear. Likewise you can do almost anything with the dags: we chose the crenelated style used by the men's current dress garment.<br />
<br />
There is, as usual, argument about the best way to create this garment. A lot of the plausible research suggests for the very opulent style: essentially a full circle of fabric with a neck hole and slits cut for setting the sleeves. This produces an incredible garment, but is also a LOT of fabric. It also doesn't entirely provide for the very fitted drop shoulder look seen in a number of the illustrations I perused. I didn't fall too far down that rabbit hole. I wanted a garment that would look and hang like the period garment, not necessarily an exact reproduction. In some cases, the two are the same thing: you can't get the period look and hang without the proper construction. in my case I thought i could probably manage by drafting off a block.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix70onWGxguCBXb49jNqE_HtTRnPWiRbAuDqm6ZDsq43c0EhP1u_iI8TBrHJ4cIkQ75i9Zu3YtlwfKRYjkGM8iAtW93kAIiIbeZ8A64UAv8amzNIflA-tWwJzusHQIl8BrUJvoE-p-Fj2O/s1600/furless+houpelande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="314" data-original-width="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix70onWGxguCBXb49jNqE_HtTRnPWiRbAuDqm6ZDsq43c0EhP1u_iI8TBrHJ4cIkQ75i9Zu3YtlwfKRYjkGM8iAtW93kAIiIbeZ8A64UAv8amzNIflA-tWwJzusHQIl8BrUJvoE-p-Fj2O/s1600/furless+houpelande.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">church of santa maria, piano italy.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another source of debate is the lining of the gown. While it seems obvious from even a quick perusal of period images that the gowns were lined fully (every turned back hem shows a different color) I have seen it asserted that they were exclusively lined in fur. While there are certainly a large number of them lined in fur, probably even the majority, there are plenty of illustrations that show a non furry lining. I will not be lining with fur, because many times when I will have occasion to wear this it may be 90 degrees outside, and i do not wish to melt.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6B4seECkxUelHX4c1Mj8X69Q2MRaqiQHxqTL458_d55SJ2nMcXZ9-QE-3HbvmFh05VhgaM0kj-jnAPLmQztoMu-Q21iRF0xDHJI-9Nj_cLc2u8tIjh7kWHACOqbni_X8gMhpnEZhnrZr/s1600/Life_of_the_Virgin_-_The_Birth_of_Mary_%2528detail%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="444" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6B4seECkxUelHX4c1Mj8X69Q2MRaqiQHxqTL458_d55SJ2nMcXZ9-QE-3HbvmFh05VhgaM0kj-jnAPLmQztoMu-Q21iRF0xDHJI-9Nj_cLc2u8tIjh7kWHACOqbni_X8gMhpnEZhnrZr/s320/Life_of_the_Virgin_-_The_Birth_of_Mary_%2528detail%2529.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life of the virgin, the birth of Mary, detail<br />
ca 1470</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Houpelande's were an over gown. they were worn over the fitted kirtle of the 14th century (indeed they were fashionable over the end of the 14th century and the beginning of the 15th.) Frequently the undergown was made of some sort of fabulously opulent material, which would then show at cuffs and hem. It's also possible that it could have been fitted with a wide trim around the hem of the fabulous material and pin on sleeves. Certainly a short sleeved kirtle with pin on sleeves was known. Later images, particularly several by van der weyden show this short sleeved gown appearing next to a woman in a houpeland, possibly as it's own sort of overgown, while some other images seem to show it as a sort of undress. My own kirtle has pinned sleeves and may later be outfitted with a contrast hem. this is easy and practical for me, providing more combinations of outfits with less effort. Although I cannot assert that it is absolutely correct without much more research, I feel like I can call it plausible.<br />
(If you wish to go further down this rabbit hole than I did, a quick google search for "women's 15th century houpelande illumination" will yield many hours of fun.)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx6CnKcQJPZWBbmvmDjtC7on1q-0LQk82rpT7Ch4Jh5dJD05p0HdZxTicbHLGbWVK2C_vsSHczNEz3MImxVQ4w0a1APQOGBI77XAS0TMFBMWKCG9WhHaVSIrvVM-Sw6dJizhjRrNH5qnD4/s1600/DSC_2283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx6CnKcQJPZWBbmvmDjtC7on1q-0LQk82rpT7Ch4Jh5dJD05p0HdZxTicbHLGbWVK2C_vsSHczNEz3MImxVQ4w0a1APQOGBI77XAS0TMFBMWKCG9WhHaVSIrvVM-Sw6dJizhjRrNH5qnD4/s320/DSC_2283.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
For my own recreation, I started from my recently drafted body block, dropped the shoulder, and slashed and spread it from just above the bust point.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0wd8DSBwOWnKdEPqO2LU08XEsnzVQMu9zBj8K9S1Dzw6U1dIVcB5_QzoyPpYikLLIiUXa2pdqCgiGJagWE4kGrQ9ZgjiEUdKkHpQXWrD2scCg4W9rmd0PjmSJ0_wfwnly-9LKzutH7Ht/s1600/DSC_2284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0wd8DSBwOWnKdEPqO2LU08XEsnzVQMu9zBj8K9S1Dzw6U1dIVcB5_QzoyPpYikLLIiUXa2pdqCgiGJagWE4kGrQ9ZgjiEUdKkHpQXWrD2scCg4W9rmd0PjmSJ0_wfwnly-9LKzutH7Ht/s320/DSC_2284.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
The first fitting was promising, but needed a few further alterations. There was more fullness than I wanted under the arm, so I re-adjusted some of my spreading. Also there was a problem with the sleeve. I had placed the seams at the center top and bottom of the seam, rather than at the front as in my husband's hanging sleeve. and made the shortest part of the sleeve also parallel with the shoulder point. That turned out to not work out as well in practice. The short part of the sleeve ended up being at the back of the wrist, and an awkward fold over the hand. I moved the seam to the front of the arm, as in my husband's hanging sleeve, and moved the short part of the sleeve to match. This solved that particular problem.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPpCs_IvC9JG19LhzkQ30jMihmtXobdpB0roli3NDt3_dQAdu8Gx1ef5vy2ByljgwWplCzCLulXGVISXi4li-jZ9Q9GVfEM4c3bUUqMYPpuS_SAF0uVzrKLkSSpksCc4yWXioHsZMZn0Z/s1600/DSC_2291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPpCs_IvC9JG19LhzkQ30jMihmtXobdpB0roli3NDt3_dQAdu8Gx1ef5vy2ByljgwWplCzCLulXGVISXi4li-jZ9Q9GVfEM4c3bUUqMYPpuS_SAF0uVzrKLkSSpksCc4yWXioHsZMZn0Z/s320/DSC_2291.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The obviously problem with this patterning method is that it makes a pattern piece wider than the fabric. This is only a problem to the modern sensibility though. In period, many fabrics were woven on much narrower looms than our modern machine looms, so fabric was frequently seamed together before being cut out. I just did the same here. Laid it out, added a piece where it was needed, then cut. Then I laid the cut piece out on the lining, and cut that out.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicu5mlE6nF4Dx0vEgdYKeXbGAsQX30BReGSn2kELKTv2z34ogDMmZTd3GpncQByy1OK8qW0PMkwpulF-K_pZdfC-2Q0aW0sfsCJXeDWGyrrTVx6HTlU4-5atTTtsXeMVoKMpMgAOumG4lG/s1600/DSC_2305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicu5mlE6nF4Dx0vEgdYKeXbGAsQX30BReGSn2kELKTv2z34ogDMmZTd3GpncQByy1OK8qW0PMkwpulF-K_pZdfC-2Q0aW0sfsCJXeDWGyrrTVx6HTlU4-5atTTtsXeMVoKMpMgAOumG4lG/s320/DSC_2305.JPG" width="320" /></a>I made the sleeves as a unit first, since they had the dags and I wanted to get them out of the way. I used my patented cheater dag technique to save fabric and make sturdier joins. Which meant first making a whole pile of dags....<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2og116mAZHu84-KXGqT9ee0vrKiuVSRfj6NCaAU-i1q5sSIktCmxUe4X3uJGv8ySoDRDKZ5IkBXzc272nYOvSU0iahEv-WO_M_MO-JNdxLuHFuGoVkUx3VfoRKGzlHPgdFOZEYf77ohQ/s1600/DSC_2320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2og116mAZHu84-KXGqT9ee0vrKiuVSRfj6NCaAU-i1q5sSIktCmxUe4X3uJGv8ySoDRDKZ5IkBXzc272nYOvSU0iahEv-WO_M_MO-JNdxLuHFuGoVkUx3VfoRKGzlHPgdFOZEYf77ohQ/s320/DSC_2320.JPG" width="214" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
and then catching them in the seam between sleeve and lining, turning, pressing, and top stitching. Oh my sleeves!<br />
<br />
Although it seems most likely that the original garments (particularly the fur lined ones) were sack lined, I ended up flat lining my gown, because the outer fabric was too drapey for the pattern. The flat lining gave it some support. I pad stitched the collar to a piece of felt, and sewed that in, and then attached the sleeves. The final step was to have my long suffering mother pin the hem (and it was a vast amount of pinning) and help me get it cut straight. Which was a challenge with the slithery fabric. I would like to take this moment to state that this is why I'm becoming a natural and period fibers snob. linen or light weight wool would have been SO much easier to work with (I didn't have a bolt of either of them lying around though.) Finally I installed a very wide hem facing of a nondescript grey "faux wool" I had lying about, to protect the white lining from dirt.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKh7nIOSN8vv5WcV7edPmCLzr3wwjq5-xVu8NIRZ_ya7AX4GJZZFIaCGJfTSmjlDqvw0fXvzf-fehqYwz4BHH9mccRwLWt9RiKTGWxZiybpZ1SUiEv3fh3g3yeo-7rj3P7wcTiVT84cVZ/s1600/DSC_2303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKh7nIOSN8vv5WcV7edPmCLzr3wwjq5-xVu8NIRZ_ya7AX4GJZZFIaCGJfTSmjlDqvw0fXvzf-fehqYwz4BHH9mccRwLWt9RiKTGWxZiybpZ1SUiEv3fh3g3yeo-7rj3P7wcTiVT84cVZ/s320/DSC_2303.JPG" width="214" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqa-9mx0zclxWc-4EIyJUDSsy6riYjTlfHqsPK8Zg3xDqX1MIIyUImWTsohP4ZEo31WRMtBF2a4Q-v94aY1JJwg5CCebwpYfYw3PWSCfdDfTIrUySe2nV1E-oBqKKUSm4xQ9nwF89LDo9/s1600/DSC_2302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqa-9mx0zclxWc-4EIyJUDSsy6riYjTlfHqsPK8Zg3xDqX1MIIyUImWTsohP4ZEo31WRMtBF2a4Q-v94aY1JJwg5CCebwpYfYw3PWSCfdDfTIrUySe2nV1E-oBqKKUSm4xQ9nwF89LDo9/s320/DSC_2302.JPG" width="214" /></a>I had a little fabric left over and a lot of curiosity about the full circle method of construction, so I made Kitten a tiny black houpelande with fur lined sleeves using that method. It turned out well, but, as I suspected, it doesn't have the snugness across the back and in the shoulders that you see in some of the illuminations. I suspect that were I working with a full fur lining, I would prefer this method. Kitten's has a fur lined sleeve, and the upper chest is lined with medium weight wool for warmth.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtkogSH_AnQwLn-qzkF-um5GVz3nFvctIfWdEo347YudVrcH3gxCWU4d2Ik-QQWEwgdSIVzxow3K8226HNjEDNtXGYYg9pSYsZtFjtwx0JI_RJaq1_ms8U5igKNotbQbhRXw0ScLrs1lCo/s1600/houpe+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="977" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtkogSH_AnQwLn-qzkF-um5GVz3nFvctIfWdEo347YudVrcH3gxCWU4d2Ik-QQWEwgdSIVzxow3K8226HNjEDNtXGYYg9pSYsZtFjtwx0JI_RJaq1_ms8U5igKNotbQbhRXw0ScLrs1lCo/s640/houpe+1.jpg" width="390" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPk7FzHvPH9XSk6kEbGZ6F0f-uEz79Pj0PHGk6drlcNqELu-VRUCn_NxWekHdFGoPtH0j5ECAYeOlnl3tHNF2KeAipYglVvr_5LBYab4gu1OL-pqLAhFN8l6FrRj6EL0Q3h4E8Q_4vEnV0/s1600/houpe+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="805" data-original-width="410" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPk7FzHvPH9XSk6kEbGZ6F0f-uEz79Pj0PHGk6drlcNqELu-VRUCn_NxWekHdFGoPtH0j5ECAYeOlnl3tHNF2KeAipYglVvr_5LBYab4gu1OL-pqLAhFN8l6FrRj6EL0Q3h4E8Q_4vEnV0/s640/houpe+2.jpg" width="324" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3uORwUZ08at8Y6IsMGHU0QwsPjyEIIH5qZxuneG3eX662p8Ri-uBN-iyx2I_83xy_wecXKtLQbXlwKFPQj9vKCmEdVNGdbgIj4do7irvHvPGMpRQ12FdvxIGy6y0jYXinz9Pg1bN-H4-/s1600/23130711_10214446571940828_6655815923581981944_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="515" data-original-width="239" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy3uORwUZ08at8Y6IsMGHU0QwsPjyEIIH5qZxuneG3eX662p8Ri-uBN-iyx2I_83xy_wecXKtLQbXlwKFPQj9vKCmEdVNGdbgIj4do7irvHvPGMpRQ12FdvxIGy6y0jYXinz9Pg1bN-H4-/s640/23130711_10214446571940828_6655815923581981944_n.jpg" width="296" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Over all, I count it a success. I ended up using one of my viking under gowns with pinned on sleeves. Hopefully I will be able to upgrade that to a proper undergown with a contrast hem before I wear the Houpelande again. I ended up having to adjust the sleeve cap after I had already made the sleeves, so the sleeves are JUST long enough with the dags. I will lengthen them a little in the next iteration of the gown. It was comfortable, classic, and I was able to layer enough to be warm (and think I can layer down enough to be moderately cool as well)</div>
<br />
With the hat and veil added to it, I Really felt like I looked like I had stepped out of an illumination, which was fun.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-84073007753624094162017-10-17T09:39:00.000-07:002018-01-10T20:22:14.908-08:0015th century Heart shaped HenninIn order to match my in progress houpelande, I needed some sort of period headwear. Now the 15th century is notable for many things, amoung them the sheer volume of truly EPIC headgear. From things that look like a lampshade inverted over the head, to the large number of different varieties of hennin, to some truly incredible pinned and shaped veils, the 15th century has the fabulous and faintly ridiculous to the modern eye headgear competition won. In fact, sifting through it to find something that I could wear and not feel totally ridiculous was difficult. The sheer size of many of the pieces is daunting, even allowing for artistic licence. My personal favorites are images from the beautiful fresco work of the nine worthies and the nine worthy women by Giacamo Jaquerio.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span id="goog_96365505"></span><span id="goog_96365506"></span><br /></div>
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJ_LPbmLdYgYFYdmSxbuoq-C1DG4vNTvTydBb7Ap8J9KAoYf3NDCYhLrd2_MmiICDH01ZvCO5oHbJKJMR3YrN68y9tfQw7UnEx_a1xDTr4yvqDXtwA2TVTV88fi6cjKUzAX-Y9MKjW7c5/s1600/9+worthies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="656" data-original-width="1000" height="417" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJ_LPbmLdYgYFYdmSxbuoq-C1DG4vNTvTydBb7Ap8J9KAoYf3NDCYhLrd2_MmiICDH01ZvCO5oHbJKJMR3YrN68y9tfQw7UnEx_a1xDTr4yvqDXtwA2TVTV88fi6cjKUzAX-Y9MKjW7c5/s640/9+worthies.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWnrEr-yQVdkV5hGQ5UpV0UBlAC1ayNZiKsMufeWosYsvmdWF5Vw1DkgSH39QVHp3AwbFn5vfKFSzoNcpECJ8jjyzj-3UJ50ZsGdI24bOe2Z7GRK0odY0tkFACi1j9gcMWkoYm-tJPMiiG/s1600/portrait-of-a-woman-robert-campin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="611" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWnrEr-yQVdkV5hGQ5UpV0UBlAC1ayNZiKsMufeWosYsvmdWF5Vw1DkgSH39QVHp3AwbFn5vfKFSzoNcpECJ8jjyzj-3UJ50ZsGdI24bOe2Z7GRK0odY0tkFACi1j9gcMWkoYm-tJPMiiG/s320/portrait-of-a-woman-robert-campin.jpg" width="217" /></a>after a lot of looking at pictures, and sending pictures to friends and laughing over them. I decided that I had two options: I could go with matronly and demure, with a folded and pinned veil, something like this one from Van der Weyden. It would require some sort of basic supports, but I likely had all the moving parts for from my 14th century wimple/veil/false braids combo. This would be low key, which, as I'm going to be a companion for one of the consorts at the east kingdom crown tournament when I wear this ensemble for the first time, would be suitable. It's also appropriate for my age and also my sort of station in life. By medieval standards, I am a matron.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDEXojAUoPP0cDfIRhu54VQxKrXNM6ub8kxYw4LEfo7FCvLxHMHRhM2vrhTUDUoxqsK3Dgh3tCpHLoWqv8AB6ihc2hm3DHonunFVSz6hTklzM7DqEKwDJHxPmhFz_Qw5_AsWf9DoUud7f/s1600/076beaeb1bca538891a159ed225e27f5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="386" data-original-width="290" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWDEXojAUoPP0cDfIRhu54VQxKrXNM6ub8kxYw4LEfo7FCvLxHMHRhM2vrhTUDUoxqsK3Dgh3tCpHLoWqv8AB6ihc2hm3DHonunFVSz6hTklzM7DqEKwDJHxPmhFz_Qw5_AsWf9DoUud7f/s320/076beaeb1bca538891a159ed225e27f5.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi92YTUmzP8taJQaDqQc8AgR6BDeKMeh53p83eNr3yuWAj7iOiNTQAOdnTNvbSZBZ_hCcaOMVL2OeXKNiyWzR3kYis7paC-5TCoOdMqmsWQaJkMQjDl0O-sw574Wj2ReHTOLybtbxvJXsyA/s1600/Penthesilea_as_one_of_the_Nine_Female_Worthie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="417" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi92YTUmzP8taJQaDqQc8AgR6BDeKMeh53p83eNr3yuWAj7iOiNTQAOdnTNvbSZBZ_hCcaOMVL2OeXKNiyWzR3kYis7paC-5TCoOdMqmsWQaJkMQjDl0O-sw574Wj2ReHTOLybtbxvJXsyA/s320/Penthesilea_as_one_of_the_Nine_Female_Worthie.jpg" width="230" /></a>OR I could do something fun and ridiculous. I was drawn to this more moderate heart shaped hennin and folded veil, also from the fresco of the 9 worthies. I say more moderate as compared to the really obnoxious examples. like another from the same fresco. Now THAT is some hat!<br />
<br />
While have nothing against personifying myself as demure and retiring with my headwear (and in fact do go out properly wimpled and veiled whenever I do 14th century. which is rare but does happen) the chance to do something so (the adjective I keep coming back to is "ridiculous") completely over the top is rare. and it just looked like a good deal of fun, if I could get past people staring at me.<br />
<br />
In the end I made my decision spontaneously on a day when I felt terrible, but still had to supervise the horde. I just needed something funny and cheerful to work on by hand while I sat propped upright at the table. And thus the heart shaped hennin was born.<br />
<br />
Construction wise, I haven't heard of any surviving headdresses, so all we have are pictures and written accounts to go on. I've seen the heart shaped hennin reproduced a number of ways. A lot of them I find unlikely and some of them I think look wrong (personal opinion. not based on irrefutably concrete evidence or exhaustive research.) So I made it up as I went along, picking the method that seemed most likely to me, and extrapolated most from earlier headdresses: under the logical assumption that it's more likely that people would adapt a known form than create something brand new. (not that it never happens. but typically fashion proceeds one step at a time not in grand leaps.)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOA7GsK9AwHIEAfU90wg3RPxznN2KDvOg-jBPeE2GsmUnhPnBAxI1kCCSxE9_n5jsejBjgn5fr2vq7i2BrzO2P6fOC6n7NCt6jxQr_jv2aAWQ0uItGvyCIzAr3Kue3-Jz2j4yWffSQZpId/s1600/WIN_20171009_14_09_42_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOA7GsK9AwHIEAfU90wg3RPxznN2KDvOg-jBPeE2GsmUnhPnBAxI1kCCSxE9_n5jsejBjgn5fr2vq7i2BrzO2P6fOC6n7NCt6jxQr_jv2aAWQ0uItGvyCIzAr3Kue3-Jz2j4yWffSQZpId/s320/WIN_20171009_14_09_42_Pro.jpg" width="320" /></a>I started with a sort of elongated semi pointy caul shape to cover my ear and the side of my head. I first patterned it out of cardboard, and when the shape seemed reasonable, cut and sewed it out of heavy duty needlepoint foundation. Yes, the proper thing to do would be to use buckram. But I had this, and wanted to see if it would do in a pinch.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8PtO6bo12mmVpe2PXLDuIo6ZxELg-2b7FZx3fR4wqIKmINj7bBd5pk_AIZ-NEkSkICUKMJjGUeRrQYCh7UAqbUhebCtWhcpMv0l6y7BISS87RaGkk-aoBOXHdnjwoFZTjcRqEG9AIUrq/s1600/WIN_20171009_16_39_19_Pro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8PtO6bo12mmVpe2PXLDuIo6ZxELg-2b7FZx3fR4wqIKmINj7bBd5pk_AIZ-NEkSkICUKMJjGUeRrQYCh7UAqbUhebCtWhcpMv0l6y7BISS87RaGkk-aoBOXHdnjwoFZTjcRqEG9AIUrq/s320/WIN_20171009_16_39_19_Pro.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I made two of the caul pieces, and then set them aside to make essentailly a closely fitted coif of the same foundation material. first shaping it with a single center seam, and then tightening it in over the ears with a pair of darts. With that solid, I attached the side pieces to it with pins. To be sure that the shape was right, I used a tea towel as a stunt double for the eventual padded roll adornment. So far so good. (I then proceeded to send pictures to all my friends that needed something to laugh about.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4q6hyHOBYyML5aEIOyESMrcORI0dNtbcrNn2KCh19EVFP_Pe9Oed3zEJoPjodn-jrYi0n930hVAI4XQ2ibaTS80i-WKA19gDPsdVdY725iKBZOKGo71QclaaAOhNPiPmGHPLdo3VpahYh/s1600/DSC_2240%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4q6hyHOBYyML5aEIOyESMrcORI0dNtbcrNn2KCh19EVFP_Pe9Oed3zEJoPjodn-jrYi0n930hVAI4XQ2ibaTS80i-WKA19gDPsdVdY725iKBZOKGo71QclaaAOhNPiPmGHPLdo3VpahYh/s320/DSC_2240%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a>With the shape set, it was time to start building the actual hat. First it all had to be padded with layers of batting to both finish out the shape, and to disguise sharp seam edges. I used the batting that I keep on the roll here, which is Quilters Dream angel. It was nice for this because it's dense and fairly firm rather than just super fluffy. It's also fairly easy to stretch to shape and tack down.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH2SjWvGet1Up7bf416eoKacptHHjdThp7Pj7j3Y_jr90aJ-CnQr0LaDS7_4mINqqk1waSPcCsVfWot2cWr24RQK78eeReTI_M5wtNF4W2ZwqBcegiRMt61hSG8Ai3qBQr20itz_a0sGIS/s1600/DSC_2242%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH2SjWvGet1Up7bf416eoKacptHHjdThp7Pj7j3Y_jr90aJ-CnQr0LaDS7_4mINqqk1waSPcCsVfWot2cWr24RQK78eeReTI_M5wtNF4W2ZwqBcegiRMt61hSG8Ai3qBQr20itz_a0sGIS/s320/DSC_2242%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmKgLhsogpeDkvaDI3Zy0_hv5BCg0abx9fk9yxdTJLo4YezCjfZMqbNPnETrXlfAcqa_Z443553V2AhH3l9ieLVtPjqzA8YErqV9KnjyHaCyLFVCiXEHLKFS-VPmRHwi4mQDtfQ0N4k3r/s1600/DSC_2243%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmKgLhsogpeDkvaDI3Zy0_hv5BCg0abx9fk9yxdTJLo4YezCjfZMqbNPnETrXlfAcqa_Z443553V2AhH3l9ieLVtPjqzA8YErqV9KnjyHaCyLFVCiXEHLKFS-VPmRHwi4mQDtfQ0N4k3r/s320/DSC_2243%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a> I used multiple layers places where it need needed a softer, rounder shape: over the ears of the caul parts, and along the center ridge seam of the coif part.<br />
<br />
Then a single layer over everything. I paid particular attention to basting and butting the seams in the joins so that there wasn't any overlap. this kept the crease between wings and head shape and neat. I was also sure to pull the outside over the tip of the wings and baste it on the inside so that any lumps would be hidden by the padded roll.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlcNdJB9RJCAPTKn7V8RdFhxy2a-3PWlAI4mZP3JvicBL1kPIZiaisxeY9qSQz319v55YN0h1hd_nPNcIFgB2fWR-4GAcTDmDcBHsfTnCRc9JFMNeg301qnmh2jT4M50i2lcgLXALo0R1h/s1600/DSC_2244%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlcNdJB9RJCAPTKn7V8RdFhxy2a-3PWlAI4mZP3JvicBL1kPIZiaisxeY9qSQz319v55YN0h1hd_nPNcIFgB2fWR-4GAcTDmDcBHsfTnCRc9JFMNeg301qnmh2jT4M50i2lcgLXALo0R1h/s320/DSC_2244%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The last step on the base was to wire the edges. this ensures that the cap or hat or whatever millinery you are making maintains the shape of it's edges. In this case it's particularly important because it keeps the edges of the cauls tight to your face. Typically one would use Millinery or florist's wire. This is copper ground wire, because it's easy to shape, sturdy, and (this is a repetitive refrain of mine) I already had it lying about. I tacked the wire in place to be sure the bends were right, then used blanket stitch to attach it all the way around the edge. Usually I've whip stitched, but for this application i liked the way blanket stitch held the wire better: it made a sort of casing.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmp36mVA8DXZffkJeRnR_YH-bpJz-_8D9VW-3XhB1LSNdU6ooC0kXo6d4OQWkESugHjZnz81QFW67eBm3eVlTZ4ucfDetHmD6Ss_aw2WoZOMkqBCpscea1As_ziWBIqqub09wQV_1TLB7q/s1600/DSC_2245%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmp36mVA8DXZffkJeRnR_YH-bpJz-_8D9VW-3XhB1LSNdU6ooC0kXo6d4OQWkESugHjZnz81QFW67eBm3eVlTZ4ucfDetHmD6Ss_aw2WoZOMkqBCpscea1As_ziWBIqqub09wQV_1TLB7q/s320/DSC_2245%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a>With the base done, I started covering everything in fabric by draping a long strip of bias cut black cloth (the same from my gown) over the coif portion of the hennin. Bias allowed me to pull it tight to shape along the top, only taking in a small dart at the center back. I basted it to the batting where it will go under the sides, and carefully basted it into the joins between the wings and coif. </div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAawNRrI4nKWRrKNHZjfYQA7mmU-QBsSo5C3rof0dwk5Ik4SxJ3EbaxVBGvJvUD1K4t9GRL_qoT7kkYYc_LrYtt4oZyCZipwDRWGPiY0ik1WN0rxTAHYc5UBnvgiRk2NyYLslABXQELobG/s1600/DSC_2248%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAawNRrI4nKWRrKNHZjfYQA7mmU-QBsSo5C3rof0dwk5Ik4SxJ3EbaxVBGvJvUD1K4t9GRL_qoT7kkYYc_LrYtt4oZyCZipwDRWGPiY0ik1WN0rxTAHYc5UBnvgiRk2NyYLslABXQELobG/s320/DSC_2248%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>then the inside of the wings. I was originally going to cut the pattern piece out and then sew it like a slip cover, but because of the added padding, and because the draping on the center part went so well, I decided to just drape bias cut pieces of fabric over the wings as well. This portion got photographed and sent to all my friends as well, since it looked like I had a giant bat perched on my head..... I was everyone's comedic relief while I was working on this thing (including my own!)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizHKO0UPeYE3vZrDlkcvhaG6OlnMVKGpFhu4pfiSBn07kpUxlg1Js7nRgoF2Zz0paY8wKxDbimylih_IM1VYN2XLFmzSl9R9HqxbU5-mZoWtHY3iAv3IIBElZdHsE3iMUrp9BiT0Ya5QJ8/s1600/DSC_2250%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizHKO0UPeYE3vZrDlkcvhaG6OlnMVKGpFhu4pfiSBn07kpUxlg1Js7nRgoF2Zz0paY8wKxDbimylih_IM1VYN2XLFmzSl9R9HqxbU5-mZoWtHY3iAv3IIBElZdHsE3iMUrp9BiT0Ya5QJ8/s320/DSC_2250%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
<br />
it looked a good deal less like an errant bat once I'd trimmed the fabric, gathered it, and whip stitched it down to the padding.<br />
<br />
It was also at this point that I decided the tall points of the cauls were a bit less sturdy than they needed to be to hold up to decorating and padded rolls and whatnot. They tended to want to collapse in on themselves when I was stitching them, and I was afraid that they might get accidentally crushed and be hard to re form once the hat was lined. So I packed a little poly fill into the tops just to firm them up a little. That solved the problem and they held up beautifully to all the rest of the decorating.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsoQjwpKAYbCOuzm0XkNhPJl8jRasU6ckzWbkMgI0nIyvwMyoB3n1itb1tuYfokBbQqsYUxqidlFZI4ZRJKefw55jI44aWc6YJ2OIBJDoXiqmKiZNqhH1yC7eejStuAjzGI-JSVKBHaNV-/s1600/DSC_2254%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsoQjwpKAYbCOuzm0XkNhPJl8jRasU6ckzWbkMgI0nIyvwMyoB3n1itb1tuYfokBbQqsYUxqidlFZI4ZRJKefw55jI44aWc6YJ2OIBJDoXiqmKiZNqhH1yC7eejStuAjzGI-JSVKBHaNV-/s320/DSC_2254%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a>with the major construction of the form done, it was time to finish off the inside of the cap with a lining. I made the lining like a coif, with a single curved back seam, then basted it into the inside. Because the foundation of the hennin has numerous shaping darts, I had to slightly gather the lining into it. For this reason I used a very thin cotton muslin, that wouldn't be awkardly bulky. I carefully turned and whip stitched the lining down to the brow portion of the cap, then bound off the rest of it with some matching linen bias tape I had lying around from another project. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwrvF_wESofvZ_r_Ht4KgR0E0vdfvo8EX9LngWx42NSWV57VFuT4kBx_a1eLYRSxDcnwfBEmXO3ff970pBmTqXfcJ0YA3VXPN3oIjs7X1675T1wEuu-1tjqobs2sRdHhLKg8nNI3rOqq5l/s1600/DSC_2251%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwrvF_wESofvZ_r_Ht4KgR0E0vdfvo8EX9LngWx42NSWV57VFuT4kBx_a1eLYRSxDcnwfBEmXO3ff970pBmTqXfcJ0YA3VXPN3oIjs7X1675T1wEuu-1tjqobs2sRdHhLKg8nNI3rOqq5l/s320/DSC_2251%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Next project was covering the cauls. I had a plan for a scrap of burgundy or dark fuchsia (somewhere in the middle. very pretty) velvet I had. Unfortunately it had been in the bottom of a bin and was quite crushed. A good steaming and brushing with a stiff bristled brush sorted everything out though.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqXfgNqBhyTLWjPuliXs_tiobknNOu2RCqodFAJ3fG0UUDwlPJ-ltkHiZWy-fNKLf6p-PM64Na2ddlHs6RUPF26kZID_vaYvZvCM6By9DA5lVB2DtFUXtfTglB8c4eeWlgemXlqk7frlQO/s1600/DSC_2256%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqXfgNqBhyTLWjPuliXs_tiobknNOu2RCqodFAJ3fG0UUDwlPJ-ltkHiZWy-fNKLf6p-PM64Na2ddlHs6RUPF26kZID_vaYvZvCM6By9DA5lVB2DtFUXtfTglB8c4eeWlgemXlqk7frlQO/s320/DSC_2256%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I cut the cauls using the pattern from the foundation, plus a little extra to allow for padding. I decorated them with beads and gold ribbon and braid in a lattice pattern. Because by this point I had challenged myself to make the whole hat with nothing but what I had on hand, I ended up making different design choices than I usually would, but I think the final effect is very pleasing.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLGdEFC424lpO-5bp3fMOQdM1QePsC8N-LcUSrQ3TOobWtAJ1ut8NID2VY8k18SSdWpOVMmIvgVj0ITXo2upi4xWUiYL7ItFI7_VNAqYbdklHOCwbCysbGGY5zxbfb-E1FrSDPjJlnOzG0/s1600/DSC_2259%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLGdEFC424lpO-5bp3fMOQdM1QePsC8N-LcUSrQ3TOobWtAJ1ut8NID2VY8k18SSdWpOVMmIvgVj0ITXo2upi4xWUiYL7ItFI7_VNAqYbdklHOCwbCysbGGY5zxbfb-E1FrSDPjJlnOzG0/s320/DSC_2259%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
With the cauls made, I mounted them on the side pieces. The grand plan is to make it so that I can switch the side pieces without completely deconstructing the whole hat. So the decoration was mounted to the velvet, then the velvet pinned in place and whip stitched down to the form. I covered the stitching with some gold braid, then trimmed the edge with trim I made by braiding gold cord with faux pearl strand.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwB9dJ3k0qWi5iOT0AUVvv_jWuaMWq4QJWe4Hgha7H9ZpWL1hEeN9wN1RmPzWOKmQhwj8TWQmB4CutT6V8n4zujkY4UqjsOsghxHxNtfW4GWMlpySgFaFf1CAcB_B2xEgRDIqysjswtxVC/s1600/DSC_2261%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwB9dJ3k0qWi5iOT0AUVvv_jWuaMWq4QJWe4Hgha7H9ZpWL1hEeN9wN1RmPzWOKmQhwj8TWQmB4CutT6V8n4zujkY4UqjsOsghxHxNtfW4GWMlpySgFaFf1CAcB_B2xEgRDIqysjswtxVC/s320/DSC_2261%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0h5V9mKbEeRo32tXFlq2B_MpppKhG8X8tcwqTG0MiSqZxJle2IFP8HYR7qr6D13R_P6MZDu8TD3oCs4Cwlic4BeoClYkKiIOv_bjxcIJBoPFvWy-V92jzQVPYhcWs8GUpL1YqwfpvBKW/s1600/DSC_2262%255B2%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS0h5V9mKbEeRo32tXFlq2B_MpppKhG8X8tcwqTG0MiSqZxJle2IFP8HYR7qr6D13R_P6MZDu8TD3oCs4Cwlic4BeoClYkKiIOv_bjxcIJBoPFvWy-V92jzQVPYhcWs8GUpL1YqwfpvBKW/s320/DSC_2262%255B2%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
With the hat itself finished, I turned to the padded roll. I made the base by wrapping strips of batting around a bent wire (ground wire again, because it's easier to shape than coathanger wire). Instead of wrapping it around a straight wire and then bending it into the characteristic V shape, I butted the batting at the front and back, and then cut it at an appropriate angle and whip stitched the ends together. This eliminated some of the possibly bulk and wrinkling.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiURheNqtq5p06UdoCGa__jMVIgroLpjLydykMphRhsMp-BFbNU5Vqrt5SO_w7InokQbfZtJ8CRqCf2yS55_1N4fWpfYlDqCmZFxdiAr3Qq33dAC6dcuVv4GyK8rTDys3wY8-iEbiYYUGp/s1600/DSC_2263%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiURheNqtq5p06UdoCGa__jMVIgroLpjLydykMphRhsMp-BFbNU5Vqrt5SO_w7InokQbfZtJ8CRqCf2yS55_1N4fWpfYlDqCmZFxdiAr3Qq33dAC6dcuVv4GyK8rTDys3wY8-iEbiYYUGp/s320/DSC_2263%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
After checking the roll for size, I proceeded to cover it with some grey acetate faux silk from my stash. First whip stitching the fabric to the bottom of the roll, then wrapping it, turning the edge under, pinning it, and using small stitches to sew it down. With both sides sewn down, I angled the ends and carefully sewed them. angling the ends was important because it avoided a big bunch of ugly wrinkles right in the V of the roll. With the roll done, the final step was to bend it to shape and carefully baste it to the side pieces of the hat.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQSOBcYQDKeSmVQgq7uMMl0iVNwOtS1341Pn5DZcaitqcss3vAEM83Us52xsckOJTdO504icl6Xk6RXPjJ2RBu79EWxPovu7a2N8QA9va1xQPnq4JTufuqYXrn-t2Xqf7mUn8UG5elg6K/s1600/22524082_10210594355882503_1064165252_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQSOBcYQDKeSmVQgq7uMMl0iVNwOtS1341Pn5DZcaitqcss3vAEM83Us52xsckOJTdO504icl6Xk6RXPjJ2RBu79EWxPovu7a2N8QA9va1xQPnq4JTufuqYXrn-t2Xqf7mUn8UG5elg6K/s640/22524082_10210594355882503_1064165252_n.jpg" width="392" /></a></div>
and done! I'm still deciding on how to pin the veil and how much decoration to put on the roll. The small dangly things (called bezants) are period but I'm not sure if I love them. it seems to depend on how I want to pin my veil. Since this is just a stunt veil made of a piece of bridal tulle (the organza for the veil proper is on order.) I've decided to wait till I have the final veil done to decide how I'm going to pin it and if I want the bezants or not. I like them with the veil pinned this way.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7C8Q6pxElrAvX0aHrW7xann4cT-54IejkGUXJOFUaMDZ8YfLv-u22wf5sLM0YHh9RpV7-tDGf7O-c-5mBHUQm6jcfDQkZsdcQjrJ0aNOGoznaE6vjB1yeXwlCHwwMxSY211urJk6GQVR/s1600/22554258_10210594727051782_416145202_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="782" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7C8Q6pxElrAvX0aHrW7xann4cT-54IejkGUXJOFUaMDZ8YfLv-u22wf5sLM0YHh9RpV7-tDGf7O-c-5mBHUQm6jcfDQkZsdcQjrJ0aNOGoznaE6vjB1yeXwlCHwwMxSY211urJk6GQVR/s640/22554258_10210594727051782_416145202_n.jpg" width="392" /></a></div>
But I dislike them with it pinned this way, with the "butterfly" in the center. Both are period methods of veil arrangement taken from images. but I'm not sure which I'l like more.<br />
<br />
The other thing to take notice of is how much further down my forehead the front of my headdress is than the period images. I took it as far up to my hairline as I could without having hair sticking out (and I have a moderately high forehead) but it's still lower than period images. During this time period a high forehead was considered a sign of beauty and intelligence, so women would pluck their foreheads much like we now pluck our eyebrows. Since I am not going to pluck my forehead, I am left with a slightly off representation of the period look.<br />
<br />
Pictures of the full ensemble will be coming once I finish up my Houpelande and get the proper veil finished.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-76026359159015495872017-10-09T08:30:00.000-07:002018-01-10T20:22:33.658-08:00In search of Armor: Breastplate and tunicWith my kidney belt finished I moved onto the last remaining piece of my basic armor (not counting legs and helmet, which I'm still using loaner.) Over the kidney belt and rerebraces, I wanted to wear a plain short sleeved linen tunic. From what we can extrapolate from grave finds and art work, vikings did wear a sort of standard geometric tunic pattern, although they sometimes did shape the sleeves and armholes (as I do in my Serks). For this I decided to just keep the standard roomy "T" shape The loose sleeve is very easy to move in, and the more awkward drape isn't something I'm concerned about all that much when I'm wearing armor anyhow. Since by this time we were on final approach for pennsic, I just needed to get it done so I could get out of what i Had started referring to as the "hedgehog armor."<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicP9VOPdLLAr66xH9-9cv1SGbpzhsQOcRYQ4wKuP3moaPvaKdR23MCRVvGU0kR1bPoUOS1j6yEypn0nDMHcYVqcniaxobkJcyKGBEFuZpiq3icnCGByjdOGVf_qR4dUYohvbyWbMnSegJp/s1600/DSC_2037%255B2%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicP9VOPdLLAr66xH9-9cv1SGbpzhsQOcRYQ4wKuP3moaPvaKdR23MCRVvGU0kR1bPoUOS1j6yEypn0nDMHcYVqcniaxobkJcyKGBEFuZpiq3icnCGByjdOGVf_qR4dUYohvbyWbMnSegJp/s320/DSC_2037%255B2%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a> I had bought blue and gold linen for this purpose several months ago on an excursion to a fabric warehouse, Indigo for the body, gold from the trim. I trimmed the sleeves, neck, and hem with the gold, and covered the join to the body with a couched cord. The couched cord is found on smokkr fragments found in birka (1) although not used exactly in this way.<br />
<br />
This is the most basic design in historical sewing, very fabric efficient because it's all squares and half rectangle triangles. I did flat fell all the seams for comfort and strength, and I made the under arm gusset much larger than I do on my normal garments, just to give it that little extra ease and make it easier to move in, and easier to get on and off over partial armor.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lSLjNqCiCchAURF3wGMZp_6I2DfAXuku0DD_qqFr33ogJqWdKyZvppeCd_8BhGGcC1ag41EMq_B7psDN06ZKaGJt9qfmvrRWFtT6cHUWztakG6mGyeAhvZmIzU_NCJLtmrTW4AaodeqR/s1600/DSC_2035%255B2%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lSLjNqCiCchAURF3wGMZp_6I2DfAXuku0DD_qqFr33ogJqWdKyZvppeCd_8BhGGcC1ag41EMq_B7psDN06ZKaGJt9qfmvrRWFtT6cHUWztakG6mGyeAhvZmIzU_NCJLtmrTW4AaodeqR/s320/DSC_2035%255B2%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>I also tried a new thing with the bottom trim. It's curved so it's a bit tricky. if you cut it in a long shaped strip, it's wicked inneficient use of fabric. lots of waste. If you cut it in pieces to match the ends of the gores, it's a lot of seams, and hard to get all the seam points matched up. If you make it straight and let it hang down, it hangs super weird and looks funny. So I cut a long straight strip, sewed it onto the edge, flipped it up to the outside of the tunic, and turned the edges under. Now I had an upper edge that was bigger than the garment. So at each seam along the side I took a small dart in by hand, from the edge of the trim to the top, shaping the trim evenly to the garment. The darts look like an extension of the garment seams, and the trim lies flat and smooth. I joined it to the body with a couched cord. The down side is that it makes 2 layers along the bottom of the garment, which is more wasteful. But on the other hand it weights the hem and makes hang very nicely. I think on balance it was a successful experiment, and I will repeat.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2r592jho8reOM0MV0StrTBpdKeTKmrwExSVcyLJGEpfOg5r1DlPGoCm4eL1s3eToVo51XSZ9dD5mbjSejJ1uBDpoYKSwnYHCNTod4vte_zRmIClfFhHA2RxPoAe7CXw8GiHSTtfJk_Tz/s1600/DSC_1976%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2r592jho8reOM0MV0StrTBpdKeTKmrwExSVcyLJGEpfOg5r1DlPGoCm4eL1s3eToVo51XSZ9dD5mbjSejJ1uBDpoYKSwnYHCNTod4vte_zRmIClfFhHA2RxPoAe7CXw8GiHSTtfJk_Tz/s320/DSC_1976%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
For the breastplate, I drafted a pattern from my gambeson, which was already patterned to wear over my breast band, which binds my chest flatter than a modern bra. I cut it out of stiff paper, because I didn't have cereal boxes big enough, and taped it together. Then I cut and shaped until it fit well over gambeson and breast band, leaving a little ease for the tunic. Instead of a seam directly over the shoulder, I used a long flat piece along the shoulder with an extended tab over the top of the arm. This both eliminated a seam at a pressure point where it could potentially cause discomfort, and gave me a place to rivet my spaulders.<br />
<br />
I cut the breastplate pieces for medium weight leather for the sides, and heavy leather over the chest. This isn't to protect my chest as much as it is to protect my collar bones, sternum, and upper ribs. In my few months fighting, it's not super common to get hit on the chest, although that may be partially a function of preferring to fight sword and shield to other forms, but most blows seem to come down onto the shoulders, where they get deflected by the spaulders. Why then do I bother with anything past a heavy collar to protect your collarbones and support the spaulders? Aside from the occasional odd ball shot that was meant for your face but landed on your chest instead, a couple of the guys in my practice have a nasty hanging shot that comes in behind your shield and lands thumpingly on your sternum. In addition to that, when I do eventually take up forms that don't involve a shield, my whole upper torso becomes a prime target until I learn to block.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqZT9_p-ksT8pNHdI84m4jbbcx3Z1X3khvDghyE54HHqw85luK0WUSE-FYyLHQ0d-GRS-cpwEMzz31ZkxcdwG33r1UxzuIR5oDrUqcIR3IzFeviHuDhV6vEWjeZj8sgk-rVyT7KpNF3of/s1600/DSC_1981%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIqZT9_p-ksT8pNHdI84m4jbbcx3Z1X3khvDghyE54HHqw85luK0WUSE-FYyLHQ0d-GRS-cpwEMzz31ZkxcdwG33r1UxzuIR5oDrUqcIR3IzFeviHuDhV6vEWjeZj8sgk-rVyT7KpNF3of/s320/DSC_1981%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>I pre punched small holes all along the edge of the breast plate pieces with my awl, then sewed them together with waxed leather thread (which is actually a sort of very fine braided cord) I then went back over the stitching the other way, making the exposed stitching look like a row of X's. This involved the use of pliers and a hand pad. I didn't want to punch the holes too large, but in hind sight I should have made them a little larger, because I broke two needles gripping them with the pliers to yank them through.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghc2ZXwUVbm4hwnQWU2kybqWjlWYakH-2qmTClLP8AVb5UBVhqDNvNVyQwPTRiObosa-aj8VrxhBMSX_EYT_sZIQqyZrU6bjoOB3ig-bcQt4-AVAQDN23fOm-VF0S4YRXsXM7gp7vD6d-R/s1600/DSC_1983%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghc2ZXwUVbm4hwnQWU2kybqWjlWYakH-2qmTClLP8AVb5UBVhqDNvNVyQwPTRiObosa-aj8VrxhBMSX_EYT_sZIQqyZrU6bjoOB3ig-bcQt4-AVAQDN23fOm-VF0S4YRXsXM7gp7vD6d-R/s1600/DSC_1983%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>I didn't want to super water harden this piece, because I just didn't think it needed to be rigid, and I wanted some flex in thesides for ease of movement (although the way I patterned it I think I could have made it of kydex and still gotten complete range of motion.) but it did need to be shaped, and stiff. So I put on my gambeson, wrapped myself in saran wrap to protect it, then put on an old t-shirt of my husband's to simulate the bulk of the tunic. I submerged the breastplates in almost boiling water for about 20 seconds, until the edges had JUST started to shrivel a little, Then put it on, and stretched and formed it into shape. I wrapped it on with a giant ace bandage until it had cooled. Then I put it over a pillow so it would hold it's shape while it dried.<br />
<br />
I attached a piece of suede for the back and shoulders (This will be covered by my scale mail drape, so it not only doesn't need to be rigid, but it's preferable that it not be) and added ties to one side so I could get in and out. Then I took it to a friend's house so he could help me drill holes in my stainless spaulders and I could rivet them on. I also wanted the advice of a more experienced armorer (I have so little experience it's not funny, he's been making armor for something like 20 years I think.) for the most effective placement of the spaulders. He actually decided I should put them on upside down, they fit my narrower shoulders better that way, and higher up than is totally standard. He also advised me on the best way to pad the inside of the spaulders, so that the ends and edges don't dig in when I get a direct hit. I wouldn't have thought of that until I'd been hit once, so I'm thankful.<br />
<br />
And it was done! just in time for a shake down cruise to pennsic. I do NOT advise this course of action. ideally you should try your new armor at a few practices to work out any wrinkles, but I was determined to be rid of the heavy, uncomfortable loaner breastplate for pennsic and it's long days of field battles. So I packed an extensive repair kit, crossed my fingers, and jumped in at the deep end. Thankfully, it had no problems. It survived trial by fire with flying colors! I was deeply thankful for the padding in the spaulders a couple of times. It was light, mobile, and comfortable. The only down side of the shorty breastplate I found in a week of fighting is that in some positions spear to the ribs can miss both belt and breastplate and nail you. That happened once and all the air exited my lungs in a whoosh. Heck of a shot by the spear. I also want to get the drape done before I do another round of melee, because pole arm to the back on padding only kind of sucks (although that wool padding is surprisingly effective. I got pole armed to the back a couple times and I was sure I was going to have big old bruises, and didn't.)<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QCvOhO6W14bHt0yYp0IlKy6DNgdYznr3SGuv0lg-R_hTLMXllU3IwdeVcVb2A-u06p-6w5y0kJLku2Z60OgbGHWcQyY1fgsjHZlAZHARAojl8M4Ey7YHb8liShabkKAV6Jlutuh2leDV/s1600/my+kit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="291" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_QCvOhO6W14bHt0yYp0IlKy6DNgdYznr3SGuv0lg-R_hTLMXllU3IwdeVcVb2A-u06p-6w5y0kJLku2Z60OgbGHWcQyY1fgsjHZlAZHARAojl8M4Ey7YHb8liShabkKAV6Jlutuh2leDV/s400/my+kit.jpg" width="197" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting to tag back in at the<br />
allied champions battle. I still<br />
look silly. <br />
Photo by James Pallack</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb9CovNlT1APbf0jHSdWKl9OsrRHtgNzTo8KVEoUkEg6kUyILWNMlG_77KJdNRVx0fVkjUnMV3AaPzlTRFn_7twvNt1X5yN7Agm-KkY7H9_GRUhyQSfHhgTBqLlw0r1oGUbgM4CmJwVZZ4/s1600/20785840_10154999100623790_8785272000459129928_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb9CovNlT1APbf0jHSdWKl9OsrRHtgNzTo8KVEoUkEg6kUyILWNMlG_77KJdNRVx0fVkjUnMV3AaPzlTRFn_7twvNt1X5yN7Agm-KkY7H9_GRUhyQSfHhgTBqLlw0r1oGUbgM4CmJwVZZ4/s400/20785840_10154999100623790_8785272000459129928_o.jpg" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My probationary household member tabard almost<br />
completely covers my armor, which actually improves<br />
the look for early period.<br />
Photo by James Pallack</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpSfFJqboOnFZJCpT5jB6tgTmx6tgzWL9jq075rm6R9E0RZEpSVznhj_g-JvewOEZpYipbxy1L5S0EU9ztAg_0MU_r2s812HUv1Vo8-m92uvvTbqsUvQ9Cm2bRuXtn3qoJ2z8JfJm3hka/s1600/21015694_10210205189913597_1156998358221572063_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZpSfFJqboOnFZJCpT5jB6tgTmx6tgzWL9jq075rm6R9E0RZEpSVznhj_g-JvewOEZpYipbxy1L5S0EU9ztAg_0MU_r2s812HUv1Vo8-m92uvvTbqsUvQ9Cm2bRuXtn3qoJ2z8JfJm3hka/s640/21015694_10210205189913597_1156998358221572063_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and a gratoutious shot of me with some of my hopefully someday household brothers, mustering on the field.<br />
Fighting with these guys is a joy and an honor. I hope to continue doing it for a long time.<br />
Photo Credit: Charla Kinzel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1) Orignal source: <span style="background-color: white;">Hägg, I. 1974. </span><i style="background-color: white;">Kvinnodräkten i Birka: Livplaggens rekonstruktion på grundval av det arkeologiska materialet.</i><span style="background-color: white;"> Uppsala, Archaeological Institute. ISBN 9150600028</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">translated in this <a href="http://urd.priv.no/viking/smokkr.html">excellent article about smokkr</a>. </span>Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-9100060352257924862017-08-25T12:35:00.001-07:002018-01-10T20:23:24.546-08:00Post Pennsic RoundupI'm back from Pennsic! I survived (even unpacking) and I had a great time. I know I've been a little quieter than usual in the months leading up, but I was SO busy I just didn't have the energy for blogging. Before I finish up posts about my armor (which got it's shakedown cruise on the battlefield at Pennsic!) and a few other things I've been working on, I thought I'd do a quick roundup of all the basic sewing I've done to get ready for the summer events this year. Even though the big kids went to camp grandma instead of Pennsic (so they didn't need a weeks worth of clothes), it was a huge amount of work to have enough clothes for me, the Husbeast, and Kitten to survive a week with only one round of laundry. I didn't get everything done I wanted to, but next year I can add to the wardrobe without the pressure. I KNOW we can survive a week with just what we have. We also finished our tents up (finally) complete with sunshade, and the Husbeast made us a bed and sundry other furnishings.<br />
<br />
I do spend a lot of time on the interesting and new projects that I usually write up for this blog, but I also spend a lot of time on the very basic sewing that keeps everyone clothed for events, mending, and also mundane sewing (particularly for Ladybug). This year there has been a LOT of that basic, keep people from going naked, sewing. Thankfully, the sheer volume I've had to produce this year will not be an annual event. Sooner than later Kitten will start getting Ladybug's old garb, and the same holds true for Crash and Bang. God bless hand me downs. Also, Now that Husbeast has a basic wardrobe, I can add to it in a more seemly and less panicked manner.<br />
<br />
So here's what I've accomplished in the last 4 months that hasn't been interesting enough to blog about. (although some of it may show up in later posts!) Everything is Terribly wrinkly because I just got home from pennsic, washed it all, and folded it to put it away, then decided to take pictures, and unfolded it....<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8M7ME6bFcDTDS9Sm4half8KfmrfiwSfH_bo2oyfghUOjnmuvHwrxjGEIT-yd0q6tYPUO3g7eG9PRfLlHnH-xOyPrakyyN1-_Y-dNXomgLyVTe9Zu5b7aZslecSmp8y9D5MnDhemeNM1B/s1600/DSC_2131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1347" data-original-width="1600" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju8M7ME6bFcDTDS9Sm4half8KfmrfiwSfH_bo2oyfghUOjnmuvHwrxjGEIT-yd0q6tYPUO3g7eG9PRfLlHnH-xOyPrakyyN1-_Y-dNXomgLyVTe9Zu5b7aZslecSmp8y9D5MnDhemeNM1B/s400/DSC_2131.JPG" width="400" /></a>Kitten has 5 small back lacing gowns, a hood, a kaftan, a nightgown, and a tiny coif for to keep the sun off her noggin.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMKzT9Q5Vz7-X8D9OMVJ3TA_0MPNxit9zVI5Y0MYYguMhjSxD-BJ6-sc8e-P8esWBmvod8Rqjdz5F5CmBv4BKufE6Tc1ntJ61FShMJYOOX30dabnYe02pcFvS8Ot8j6khtd9boYbu-H3id/s1600/DSC_2133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMKzT9Q5Vz7-X8D9OMVJ3TA_0MPNxit9zVI5Y0MYYguMhjSxD-BJ6-sc8e-P8esWBmvod8Rqjdz5F5CmBv4BKufE6Tc1ntJ61FShMJYOOX30dabnYe02pcFvS8Ot8j6khtd9boYbu-H3id/s400/DSC_2133.JPG" width="267" /></a></div>
Her Kaftan and hood are wool. The kaftan is upcycled from two old wool skirts, and the hood is a scrap I had leftover from another project. It's edged with blanket stitch, and seamed with van dyke stitch, all in crewel wool. I used the leftovers to make a little tassel. The kaftan has some decorative stitching in silk Perle.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8eNpg7hn_T-vnyuOkK1mzxCGwlLXiUnf8UfLjr2o4yVcRz6VBkI7YJ42bcfeHb2GwctWF_ExYe9He0z0ZtjOCeAvBddJX-eiSJbNQ4vKiOa0X14NvaWN8YG-YRNifWwtK8P20WLnSfBZb/s1600/DSC_2043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8eNpg7hn_T-vnyuOkK1mzxCGwlLXiUnf8UfLjr2o4yVcRz6VBkI7YJ42bcfeHb2GwctWF_ExYe9He0z0ZtjOCeAvBddJX-eiSJbNQ4vKiOa0X14NvaWN8YG-YRNifWwtK8P20WLnSfBZb/s400/DSC_2043.JPG" width="267" /></a></div>
The yoke on this little butterfly gown is upcycled from an vintage doily. This (and all the others this year) is Baby Gown v2.0 It back laces with a fingerloop braided cord and hand eyelets. Much easier to get on, and she can't take it off!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYPgxJZFkSoBqW0TA5Xrf81kGPrS9XPnLMdokCou17TPY-wz5choP1txuJtDOSI4GUC500Mgsuls4xMmGxiYnDUmMtF9QjqQeSysLj1YI7ioU2DHqhxCxIXkPgbexnBEJ7oNFekNVt460E/s1600/DSC_2135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1375" data-original-width="1600" height="343" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYPgxJZFkSoBqW0TA5Xrf81kGPrS9XPnLMdokCou17TPY-wz5choP1txuJtDOSI4GUC500Mgsuls4xMmGxiYnDUmMtF9QjqQeSysLj1YI7ioU2DHqhxCxIXkPgbexnBEJ7oNFekNVt460E/s400/DSC_2135.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Crash got two new tunics, a nightshirt, and a new pair of Thorsbjurg trousers.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Fh9SpdG0_HFlg99SbYVBFYN1-0IIpwttCSOZLKZbZhyphenhyphenThvR2QslpzKTMJEjIQleTeh_4ENfqjo2XhvOz3y8s9D5cMp8kI69DQUjL6MBxw9tWCSJo9-xx6zDYOdJSAbMSXD6uu8YifwcB/s1600/DSC_2136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1260" data-original-width="1600" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Fh9SpdG0_HFlg99SbYVBFYN1-0IIpwttCSOZLKZbZhyphenhyphenThvR2QslpzKTMJEjIQleTeh_4ENfqjo2XhvOz3y8s9D5cMp8kI69DQUjL6MBxw9tWCSJo9-xx6zDYOdJSAbMSXD6uu8YifwcB/s320/DSC_2136.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
He also got this upcycled cloak. We were given an old cloak that was made of two layers of heavy wool and had lost it's clasp. I took it apart, let the boys choose lining fabric, and made two new cloaks. In addition he got a new hood since he outgrew his wool one. This is a lighter weight linen one (originally intended as a fencing hood but didn't fit the helmet right.) and edged with satin stitch worked in green wool.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xzqtcdLA2KSTI3BYJ5f6Jyfkc2yxoaFQVHtXcG_UyZPm13w3EtZEf7yxDVhu4tolxAY_5SCBXAM2npZzWxroL4rel802QQxEKPP_6EHc_I77Q0qHz-khzkoAPD3WsHlgTps0ZAnPl-4e/s1600/DSC_2139.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1257" data-original-width="1600" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6xzqtcdLA2KSTI3BYJ5f6Jyfkc2yxoaFQVHtXcG_UyZPm13w3EtZEf7yxDVhu4tolxAY_5SCBXAM2npZzWxroL4rel802QQxEKPP_6EHc_I77Q0qHz-khzkoAPD3WsHlgTps0ZAnPl-4e/s400/DSC_2139.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Bang got two new tunics, two new pairs of thorsbjurg trousers, a nightshirt, and his half of the upcycled cloak project. Thankfully Crash's hand me down hood fits him just right.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jr2hhoJfVSuOtruqbKOvq20nNoCY5pcBRKSYpC7CTNhTtMmB3eZVsK6fwWJM0EIAtPpNBfKX-OdXn3EUA-dPJsgT8IQ-_MYbmcfFZD02rhKyEmhodR0f63w9-TlFBgpw3Y9f6Dd4zNq2/s1600/DSC_2140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1171" data-original-width="1600" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6jr2hhoJfVSuOtruqbKOvq20nNoCY5pcBRKSYpC7CTNhTtMmB3eZVsK6fwWJM0EIAtPpNBfKX-OdXn3EUA-dPJsgT8IQ-_MYbmcfFZD02rhKyEmhodR0f63w9-TlFBgpw3Y9f6Dd4zNq2/s400/DSC_2140.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Ladybug still had some garments, so she got two new gowns, a nightgown, and some accessories.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNgbeNOBHv8g07V2uc6zeVw_8t2xW5GxhsVojW2vox4QfJr9pyxP-nG2eaHGniXQU5seQwOMJ7OSuI8JRU9f3Hw6rI2Vx2AOGAnGe855gZlqZ4xdZl0jhZdGkwM7JMp-6SsFh1cDZkaib3/s1600/DSC_2141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1342" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNgbeNOBHv8g07V2uc6zeVw_8t2xW5GxhsVojW2vox4QfJr9pyxP-nG2eaHGniXQU5seQwOMJ7OSuI8JRU9f3Hw6rI2Vx2AOGAnGe855gZlqZ4xdZl0jhZdGkwM7JMp-6SsFh1cDZkaib3/s320/DSC_2141.JPG" width="268" /></a></div>
She asked for a hennin and veil, but I told her that wasn't really a thing little girls wore in the 14th century, but I'd find something. A little research led me to discover that younger girls did wear chaplets of flowers, sometimes real, sometimes jeweled or enameled. So I made her this little chaplet of enameled flowers. Also she got the silly embroidered purse.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjldAmQlkKNHKQ1FS3DHWoXpmWgd0QNMORT3Z3dzisWivGac0LC4twpY85VVgN0DM06hFyTxNU8ber6WJKP3ZHJhMjgxYy8VnItHMVLlCMwUlB_grjBZ7bXw3F0hWTWkSrBTceLYcBUc5AR/s1600/DSC_2142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1257" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjldAmQlkKNHKQ1FS3DHWoXpmWgd0QNMORT3Z3dzisWivGac0LC4twpY85VVgN0DM06hFyTxNU8ber6WJKP3ZHJhMjgxYy8VnItHMVLlCMwUlB_grjBZ7bXw3F0hWTWkSrBTceLYcBUc5AR/s320/DSC_2142.JPG" width="251" /></a></div>
The nice thing about viking is my garb needs are fairly few and simple. (Thankfully because I needed armor.) I made two new Serks of linen, one with silk trim. and a pair of (also linen) Thorsbjurg trousers for fighting in.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRQJT4N2T2XjiOkTApgRNGzCfF3Aoy0PtLm3UMWuqF8ewh2_m5_ZDwZFFnjkzfsCM35tXZa0ZigJYR0_vT3ZsU_hRf3pJGvf74svje5LR5Rr4H2WcjuCp57QdqgWP9sI_atT8RnJ6H6AYm/s1600/DSC_2143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1151" data-original-width="1600" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRQJT4N2T2XjiOkTApgRNGzCfF3Aoy0PtLm3UMWuqF8ewh2_m5_ZDwZFFnjkzfsCM35tXZa0ZigJYR0_vT3ZsU_hRf3pJGvf74svje5LR5Rr4H2WcjuCp57QdqgWP9sI_atT8RnJ6H6AYm/s400/DSC_2143.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
Himself on the other hand, has ALL The garb needs. Particularly because he needs body linens in addition to outer clothing. I finished two shirts for wear, and two shirts to fight in, with at least a little embroidery on them.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQOt_vnRc5HHXl6pbNiarpG1-wq8L_m0FPSalF4mWur_y1q9DwA900P-qsMLZNbzqzAnLxPEG5dvnNXhMbJ8kG773vY8u3hX9_Y57leS_9-t7eai-ND1vHcrbvz3wREsZvwlP5OZeAykc/s1600/DSC_1881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQOt_vnRc5HHXl6pbNiarpG1-wq8L_m0FPSalF4mWur_y1q9DwA900P-qsMLZNbzqzAnLxPEG5dvnNXhMbJ8kG773vY8u3hX9_Y57leS_9-t7eai-ND1vHcrbvz3wREsZvwlP5OZeAykc/s320/DSC_1881.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I learned to do pulled work on his shirts, and found it addictive. Here's the neck opening of one of his wearing shirts. (the collar is worked too)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHL8gwluWo7K6QlAtlEDbuUCtUZahkqyDuj9BjhOUG_o2u0MAuwvfbZDDCr1M0bycvZ1D9tTj22cLCBp2KcOCDcbvvN3qctlIThZkB3l7HK5RjA4m9EndbPMPT6VgDMiH7Cn5xDxDd8cAD/s1600/DSC_1944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHL8gwluWo7K6QlAtlEDbuUCtUZahkqyDuj9BjhOUG_o2u0MAuwvfbZDDCr1M0bycvZ1D9tTj22cLCBp2KcOCDcbvvN3qctlIThZkB3l7HK5RjA4m9EndbPMPT6VgDMiH7Cn5xDxDd8cAD/s320/DSC_1944.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
And the cuff of one of his fighting shirts. The little zig zag was really fun!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuk1bLLTzhYscksdC0xBBewS8xtTBlIUG3_5H3j1icjShKUXmLtXNi_Hs9O1Dhv8s96n2YXYCSsdWAashM5cP6rtGMG4Ud1f_iphoFMSq2b4GNtDzBgIADhfWmrOJZ1KhCdUpJF8oHSYfs/s1600/DSC_2144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1373" data-original-width="1600" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuk1bLLTzhYscksdC0xBBewS8xtTBlIUG3_5H3j1icjShKUXmLtXNi_Hs9O1Dhv8s96n2YXYCSsdWAashM5cP6rtGMG4Ud1f_iphoFMSq2b4GNtDzBgIADhfWmrOJZ1KhCdUpJF8oHSYfs/s400/DSC_2144.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
He had no clothes, so He got a half circle wool and velvet cloak, lined in silk, one suit of clothes (brown trunkhose and blue doublet) and one pair of camp pants out of a single layer of linen canvas. He can wear those around camp with just a shirt and be more comfortable and cool. He still wore his viking some too. Hopefully by next year he'll have enough of his own period of clothes he won't have to wear the viking at all.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBgb62ywQTbDSj4plokvGo4PXdUhwJGrzwLIC-sIX87-86embzXShJW7MbGjh01cSkGWimKTxVZ9eBfTIqmVLFqxwBAuB3DeGybcoaEz4ePuj4WovuaHhLwUP4eT7lbaDLhiFAgepHz4xn/s1600/DSC_2146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1404" data-original-width="1600" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBgb62ywQTbDSj4plokvGo4PXdUhwJGrzwLIC-sIX87-86embzXShJW7MbGjh01cSkGWimKTxVZ9eBfTIqmVLFqxwBAuB3DeGybcoaEz4ePuj4WovuaHhLwUP4eT7lbaDLhiFAgepHz4xn/s320/DSC_2146.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
He also had to have a fighting houpelande to match the rest of our household that we're in the process of joining when he was out on the melee field. This has a hanging sleeve (although you can't see it that well here.) it's two layers of linen in the body to pass the safety tests for SCA rapier fencing, and one layer in the sleeve.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5QvRcQg2KQr36tJrDup_SMXniqf3PwLVjlMF4wAGEc0KhFJqXzqPLPMcILc2y5uCPI7id0IdRrS-M8wMdDEGCQqRfV-D70JrCOtZE1eFkZk-YEWexu5Q3w_PX7xcJkE-PzgNTcKe4_43r/s1600/fencing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="653" data-original-width="1069" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5QvRcQg2KQr36tJrDup_SMXniqf3PwLVjlMF4wAGEc0KhFJqXzqPLPMcILc2y5uCPI7id0IdRrS-M8wMdDEGCQqRfV-D70JrCOtZE1eFkZk-YEWexu5Q3w_PX7xcJkE-PzgNTcKe4_43r/s400/fencing.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here he is fencing in it :) on the left with the loud tights and brown hood.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In addition to that I helped Husbeast with the fabric portion of our tents. That was a project and a half. I'm so thankful I have a heavy duty treadle machine to handle the sewing. I also have a new respect for tent makers.<br />
After all that, I'm taking a bit of a break from projects with deadlines. I'm spending some time reading, weaving, working on an embroidered kaftan project, catching up on household duties (you can't see my poor roses for the weeds!) and generally decompressing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQQtFLrRmYLLG20UgDzhdmSi_lLwIX1vvKd9NDkY86_eDKH7IAkg2oWKS9Rjzg6-kBg8mW3clujMOesZNqafuRq1R9FeMq2eWNG9StPsi1XXl3mjPQ-aiDDJVMwDt2UwLiD80bnzD6D4Kg/s1600/DSC_1796%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQQtFLrRmYLLG20UgDzhdmSi_lLwIX1vvKd9NDkY86_eDKH7IAkg2oWKS9Rjzg6-kBg8mW3clujMOesZNqafuRq1R9FeMq2eWNG9StPsi1XXl3mjPQ-aiDDJVMwDt2UwLiD80bnzD6D4Kg/s320/DSC_1796%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sneak Peek of the Kaftan project!! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-67249193453921381182017-07-20T11:41:00.000-07:002018-01-10T20:22:56.244-08:00My gloveing journey: A pair of armored gauntlets When I started loking at women's armor for inspiration, the first thing that I was really attracted to was a set of thigh guards and vambraces made from soft leather with sewn channels for metal strapping. I looked and said: "That looks like boning channels, I can do this!" So I designed these gloves with attached vambraces, based on a pair of Wisby style gauntlets I'd seen on pinterest. Essentially the pattern is like any other cuffed glove, although the cuff is longand fitted. Articulated finger backs for full gauntlets are far beyond my current skill and budget, but it should be theoretically possible to remove the vambraces, attach armor to the gloves, and then reattach the vambraces. Maybe I'll even figure out how to make the articulated fingers myself at some point (or more likely my husband will)<br />
<br />
I decided that I'd use up my giant pile of good quality leather scraps on these gloves to save the limited funds for other armoring projects, and because I kind of liked the patchwork look of it (this is one of those "I saw a thing once upon a time and it stuck in my brains" ideas). It certainly makes my style very personalized, if not really Historically accurate. But the historical accuracy of a set of gauntlets for a viking persona is debatable at best, so I decided to go with making something fun for myself.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZIoiNDaaaHNdRbsfJtiBtK-w6hEzEueSS6TBZ8nfyYZSMMIszkGjMrkjeksuJWKZKlYJ1Rh76wvTOXh0RGcskVmIKrMR7ioHOuNJzgHmI7RA8XkS7xh4BGkJvD_cLtduPDm00GK5scMJ/s1600/DSC_1710.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZIoiNDaaaHNdRbsfJtiBtK-w6hEzEueSS6TBZ8nfyYZSMMIszkGjMrkjeksuJWKZKlYJ1Rh76wvTOXh0RGcskVmIKrMR7ioHOuNJzgHmI7RA8XkS7xh4BGkJvD_cLtduPDm00GK5scMJ/s320/DSC_1710.JPG" width="320" /></a>I started by making a cardboard pattern for the vambrace, and taping it onto my arm until I got a good shape with coverage up to the elbow but the ability to flex my arm. I really like cardboard for patterning things that will be stiff, because you can tape it on and see if it needs to be trimmed because it's bidning/jabbing/etc. Then I traced that onto a piece of butchers paper, and started laying out scraps to fit, and sewing them together. It's a bit tricky, because you don't want to cut a seam, so you can't just sew it all together into a big square then cut your patterns in the traditional way, but I managed to piece the outsides of a pair of vambraces in an evening.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilf874VbfG-1dWq26fFBlSLlv8LGGz_VaZawc-5TdyRIiyZgOBOBn6jUFOBn_LLtmqGqGY_EICkOwc7BbBV0P3tVBmyW0suu5ALxi-TqNSKAczcq1UmL9465w_UPaI5t_cMoQplCindefK/s1600/DSC_1531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilf874VbfG-1dWq26fFBlSLlv8LGGz_VaZawc-5TdyRIiyZgOBOBn6jUFOBn_LLtmqGqGY_EICkOwc7BbBV0P3tVBmyW0suu5ALxi-TqNSKAczcq1UmL9465w_UPaI5t_cMoQplCindefK/s320/DSC_1531.JPG" width="320" /></a>I had a lot of "help" from Kitten. Who wants to be involved with everything.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TuTbqToVFzfTkAvCgUq0H83q8Hz2u596Ciq_4vloutJncQzeBErrvR2MubGvT8UEORoKCCyUvH1JsXnN_Twaqs3kRksTCNh5G1EOv4oQYOFNq3lGE255f4uErpTSkJ7j2gsKUZrZfDwT/s1600/DSC_1706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TuTbqToVFzfTkAvCgUq0H83q8Hz2u596Ciq_4vloutJncQzeBErrvR2MubGvT8UEORoKCCyUvH1JsXnN_Twaqs3kRksTCNh5G1EOv4oQYOFNq3lGE255f4uErpTSkJ7j2gsKUZrZfDwT/s320/DSC_1706.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I drafted a basic glove pattern, and fit it with a <br />
felt mockup. I must finally be getting better at this, because this time around I only had to do one mockup, and only two small changes. I'm still having trouble getting the amount of ease in the fingers right: the thumb was snug and the two middle fingers were about a quarter inch loose, I slimmed down the fouchettes to correct that problem, and traced out a final pattern. I'd also forgotten to center the thumb on the palm side of the first finger again, but that was easily set right. I then proceeded to trace a clean copy, and cut it apart into bits so that I could piece it from scraps without having to either a) cut the seams or b) ending up with a continuous line of stitching across the knuckles, which I thought would be awkward looking. I taped the fouchettes to some of the fingers to give my one piece to cut out instead of two, carefully overlapping the seam allowances so that the pieces would be the right size. <br />
<br />
When I was done putting all the pieces together I was left basically with a standard glove that had the<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJHYrrHfHD3hmbAqAUSDVrsZgoMPr_dDB-AzghOf80IHZz6uwjsh6DXDZDHYqldEjXRp2M6oaeGfXmBkjxMY33-5cRtmLwNLLbEppVqZ9_xSKK1E8U6qyZywSFByJJ_oftI3ZGITD3-Er/s1600/DSC_1782%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJHYrrHfHD3hmbAqAUSDVrsZgoMPr_dDB-AzghOf80IHZz6uwjsh6DXDZDHYqldEjXRp2M6oaeGfXmBkjxMY33-5cRtmLwNLLbEppVqZ9_xSKK1E8U6qyZywSFByJJ_oftI3ZGITD3-Er/s320/DSC_1782%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
fouchettes put in already. Remaining was the thumb and the final finger seam. Typically I do that final finger seam on the treadle machine to expedite things, but because of the way the fingers were pieced together I decided to just bite the bullet and do it by hand.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9lMK1BipO6V5lDocio6eIDlupWhbE9Vj_YRZ7ySQYm_iV-wN8jpxtsmVGU_0QiD38iVG5Vsacp_-i2AT5n3tgN8LH1j2FErJ5CQyGa_kMy5Idq5dp9kchC43r6r3saiS2BdOiI1AXt7Q/s1600/DSC_1783%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS9lMK1BipO6V5lDocio6eIDlupWhbE9Vj_YRZ7ySQYm_iV-wN8jpxtsmVGU_0QiD38iVG5Vsacp_-i2AT5n3tgN8LH1j2FErJ5CQyGa_kMy5Idq5dp9kchC43r6r3saiS2BdOiI1AXt7Q/s320/DSC_1783%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
with the hands and vambraces all together I was ready to splint the vambraces </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh71it_a2ZMk09CgXcFfRd2KE6ZDI9Yg84X09XWto3dsz39CKHJ8aF3dpr7EstQV5RIT1PQcfW6FVRVY11-q_ijXukfzns3084-WmAW_MKliX_twKmiIYWxZ5PGxmT2EgckyIWub6U-4rzg/s1600/DSC_1787%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh71it_a2ZMk09CgXcFfRd2KE6ZDI9Yg84X09XWto3dsz39CKHJ8aF3dpr7EstQV5RIT1PQcfW6FVRVY11-q_ijXukfzns3084-WmAW_MKliX_twKmiIYWxZ5PGxmT2EgckyIWub6U-4rzg/s320/DSC_1787%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>I used metal intended for welding sourced from the hardware store for my splints. My husband cut it and rounded the edges, and then I painted it with 3 layers of rustoleum. Why would I do that? because I'm going to sweat all over these things regularly, and they may not dry out as quickly as I'd like. Rust will ruin these from the inside out in very short order. I wish I could have found aluminum from my splints, as it would have been lighter, and rust proof, but this was what I could easily source locally, and compared to the arms I'm currently wearing, it's light as a feather.<br />
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDE-Redz1LcMxYiVuK6i6AE74vQg_2evjx8WJV1eWtijITELuKhlUpkr44LxcTidEOvXu4i-3dgHPMnzL-XeFIh6-OdRJkBf2pBne-JzSpGPdMW531srioR1wXU1CTgq__MJpzJYnqBcpx/s1600/DSC_1788%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDE-Redz1LcMxYiVuK6i6AE74vQg_2evjx8WJV1eWtijITELuKhlUpkr44LxcTidEOvXu4i-3dgHPMnzL-XeFIh6-OdRJkBf2pBne-JzSpGPdMW531srioR1wXU1CTgq__MJpzJYnqBcpx/s320/DSC_1788%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>With the metal ready, I sewed boning channels into my canvas and lining, and inserted the splints. Awesome lining fabric is leftover from a quilting project. I decided NOT to pad the lining, as I'd originally considered, but rather to pad my gambeson underneath, with the idea that separate layers will dry more quickly. The padding will protect my arm from the splints. If this seems like an aggressive amount of protection, it probably is, but I watched someone get their forearm broken a few years ago, and I'd rather wear something a little heavy than have that happen. Melee is a hot mess, and sticks fly everywhere. With my smaller frame, a misplaced or mistimed chop from a great weapon would be all it would take. Maybe eventually for tourney I will decide on something lighter. I put the leather on top of the splints, and bound them with suede using my trusty treadle machine. Then I sewed on buckles and straps.<br />
<br />
about this time I decided to try and incorporate hardened demi gauntlets into my design to save me from wearing a pair over the gloves. I had already made a cardboard pattern and mockup for these, and I decided to get rid of the cuff, and rivet the hand direct to the glove itself before attaching the vambrace. I felt this would streamline the dressing process and save me from the dread demi gauntlets. I'd been through 3 or 4 different loaned pairs (in varying shades of "doesn't fit") and didn't much care for any of them.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgBsl8RgX4wP9YUnFJf_VExmK9fkcveBG3NSc56AWLDy_AUCRcbmSNPsvohj4dEr1WlzrPZjM0w0sN0ELtyUlBS6W2ehn6g_UjPleWRpBt7HTvL5huTo5-eBKiPgP8RZgMP7EtoXsO4WZN/s1600/DSC_1804%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgBsl8RgX4wP9YUnFJf_VExmK9fkcveBG3NSc56AWLDy_AUCRcbmSNPsvohj4dEr1WlzrPZjM0w0sN0ELtyUlBS6W2ehn6g_UjPleWRpBt7HTvL5huTo5-eBKiPgP8RZgMP7EtoXsO4WZN/s320/DSC_1804%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a>I cut the gauntlet pieces, sewed them together, and water hardened them. To shape them over my hands I put on the gloves with a pair of surgical gloves over top of them, to protect them from the water. Then I slapped the hot wet leather right onto my hand, covered it with a piece of plastic wrap, and taped it to my hand with athletic tape. I left it taped to my hand until it was thoroughly cooled, then took it off very gently, and tied it gently around so that it wouldn't fall out of shape as it dried. Once it was dry, I quick riveted it to the back of the hand. Then I sewed the cuff onto the hand with a stitching awl. This seam can be undone easily should i manage to get articulated hands for these gauntlets.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnpqh3D64ZBk4Xq6X3IlDJgmGvKg5IUB1CoxLCnrw54jbciSAF3eIjrlzEgWQCe_mdL58TudkVIEd3eOtTjBhZd85NzBIOSgKJ540Fhcl35lqLEq4PDBDUxHSUo__-Up04XqXgWmhYgRU/s1600/DSC_1806%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBnpqh3D64ZBk4Xq6X3IlDJgmGvKg5IUB1CoxLCnrw54jbciSAF3eIjrlzEgWQCe_mdL58TudkVIEd3eOtTjBhZd85NzBIOSgKJ540Fhcl35lqLEq4PDBDUxHSUo__-Up04XqXgWmhYgRU/s640/DSC_1806%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bottom of the wrist seam is left un sewn. This allows for better mobility in the joint. The leather strap across the palm keeps the hardened plate from flapping.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk3r6Z2enCqg4nl8_9Ngm0juAYp8pQCO4tYHt4mrOR4RVx6X9YXNCCD1a0s8zDlCkKeUhjJ1IqTnqDHSy_63c9LkaQUNjsKL7u5I9e3cE6fMNiCp46rZST7Xhmxt46RysE23JHzhyTKQPg/s1600/DSC_1807%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk3r6Z2enCqg4nl8_9Ngm0juAYp8pQCO4tYHt4mrOR4RVx6X9YXNCCD1a0s8zDlCkKeUhjJ1IqTnqDHSy_63c9LkaQUNjsKL7u5I9e3cE6fMNiCp46rZST7Xhmxt46RysE23JHzhyTKQPg/s640/DSC_1807%255B1%255D.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gentle curve down over the knuckles gives me better coverage without limiting my mobility. You don't want any squishy bits sticking out of your shield boss or hilt basket, and i prefer a smaller hilt basket. so thumb and hand coverage is key. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With the basic gauntlet done, I needed make a floating piece to cover the space between hand back and splints, that would help protect my wrist and make sure I passed inspection. I needed to do this without limiting my mobility. which is a pretty tall order. One of the more senior fighters that I was complaining to had the excellent idea of attaching a small wrist plate with elastic to the sides of the glove. I went back to the cardboard for a trial run and found that a blobby crescent sort of shape, if given a little stretch, covered the questionable chink in my armor, and didn't bind up on my wrist. I cut it from leather, wet shaped it, and attached it with elastic tabs. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMp2zHFWPmPJXeFbvxtzUljq6fYPKYNrutxQ5lkSsabSifgH2k24nu6dd7VB6WtBwoF4x4_Yob0zz-5OE_s6sJFkU-cQmmY2ROos1a7vDA8yjWwBHYyfPxcRShoXwvgKaQC08Jq0h8NUc3/s1600/DSC_1984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMp2zHFWPmPJXeFbvxtzUljq6fYPKYNrutxQ5lkSsabSifgH2k24nu6dd7VB6WtBwoF4x4_Yob0zz-5OE_s6sJFkU-cQmmY2ROos1a7vDA8yjWwBHYyfPxcRShoXwvgKaQC08Jq0h8NUc3/s640/DSC_1984.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the finished right glove. complete with wrist guard. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGxQPLIHLdiLAc3f8fBMhv96P8TWhQrg07xEK_ZGxxoa7WH-us9LVK0gVA_f2GtZq1_SgH4dzcpmGBtHrN0P8hE75pl5nHcf_dBjNfB-hz7L_se6JxPPTqCi3i8y9JQi1CP-yLS2tM3bb/s1600/DSC_1987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGxQPLIHLdiLAc3f8fBMhv96P8TWhQrg07xEK_ZGxxoa7WH-us9LVK0gVA_f2GtZq1_SgH4dzcpmGBtHrN0P8hE75pl5nHcf_dBjNfB-hz7L_se6JxPPTqCi3i8y9JQi1CP-yLS2tM3bb/s640/DSC_1987.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">elastic tabs mounted on rivets through the hand plate give the wrist guard some flex. the curved up shape keeps it away from my wrist and allows a pretty full range of wrist motion. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI21yNgHaXPrMJy1UFhYXDhpxuiXnV0AWq74tC2Maf6zSilwKEzAj196xlYnj6d6R7Yv61bdcHBNi7BzzOYGc7uQ7zx92QkjqWDrChmGMPHvClsJk5SqXGefpiv1dzoqC_noZqVGpD_mJV/s1600/DSC_1988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI21yNgHaXPrMJy1UFhYXDhpxuiXnV0AWq74tC2Maf6zSilwKEzAj196xlYnj6d6R7Yv61bdcHBNi7BzzOYGc7uQ7zx92QkjqWDrChmGMPHvClsJk5SqXGefpiv1dzoqC_noZqVGpD_mJV/s640/DSC_1988.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">from the top you can see that the floating plate gives complete coverage of the gap between the splinted vambrace and the hand plate. I wore the gloves for several weeks without the wrist plate, and got hit in the wrist a couple times without issue, but this way they will consistently pass inspection. The extra protection for the wrist is no bad thing either I need my wrists for sewing. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
For the record, this is the stupidest way to make a glove EVER, and I could have made 3 pairs of regular gloves, maybe more, in the time it took me to make these. But I love them so much I totally don't care. Sometimes, since I have to be aggressively practical in most of my mundane life, it's just nice to break out in impracticality in some way!<br />
<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-42710745874226975002017-07-16T09:06:00.000-07:002018-01-10T20:23:42.287-08:00In Search of Armor: Gambeson<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpIexA6K3_nS4tvXmsLPDWa7Ym_l4MFSALbmsS4YtNiP4UnXWuOuHV0XszquuoCQflrZcoCmPXNxuDgVS4knrQv5uhk8h6HakqpbE94Zf0d-E8j89LtkOR_-vy7sF8m1WJDYW9OTpGiT0h/s1600/DSC_1861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1529" data-original-width="1213" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpIexA6K3_nS4tvXmsLPDWa7Ym_l4MFSALbmsS4YtNiP4UnXWuOuHV0XszquuoCQflrZcoCmPXNxuDgVS4knrQv5uhk8h6HakqpbE94Zf0d-E8j89LtkOR_-vy7sF8m1WJDYW9OTpGiT0h/s320/DSC_1861.JPG" width="253" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My current gear, I've got my new arms on here,<br />
Although taped on still. Legs, and breastplate are<br />
Loaner, so's my helmet (restingby my feet)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I've been a bit lax with my blog over the last couple months. Not because I've not been sewing, but because with the SCA event season upon us, I've been too busy desperately trying to finish stuff to have time to spend writing it up. We've gotten much more involved this year: started attending camping events, and both of us started fighting, so suddenly I have 6 people in need of complete wardrobes, rather than just one or two outfits, plus an entire encampment to organize. It's been crazy to say the least. But I wanted to take a break from the hurly burly of pennsic prep to share the next step in my quest for armor that doesn't weigh a thousand pounds and fit like it was made for a much larger man....<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht30JGX0aDSDMWMiLj_OQaOCZNla9J_pv7oj_lgJR-BTPHgC1VdpUCvJERjgGFc81pljaOVMmtgoRz-rxZ4n9SncJYT53Y1q6v-THb8ektTz9YVqc-_qgw62VXHaZ3UmYGX3KjqNDbxJhq/s1600/charles+de+blois.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht30JGX0aDSDMWMiLj_OQaOCZNla9J_pv7oj_lgJR-BTPHgC1VdpUCvJERjgGFc81pljaOVMmtgoRz-rxZ4n9SncJYT53Y1q6v-THb8ektTz9YVqc-_qgw62VXHaZ3UmYGX3KjqNDbxJhq/s1600/charles+de+blois.jpg" /></a>The next step in my skin out armoring process is the Gambeson. For those of you not familiar with armoring terms, this is a padded (usually by quilting) closely fitted jacket style garment worn under armor to give you some padding. It has varying styles. I chose one popular in the 14th century because I was fascinated by the large circular grande assiette sleeve. It's some of the most interesting patterning I've ever seen, and I wanted to try it! There's a fascinating surviving example of this style in the purpoint of charles de blois (Housed in the Musee Historique des Tissus). Although it has been postulated that this rich silk garment was actually for show, it has the style of the more practical arming coats of the time. The pattern is a variety of crazy partially probably inspired by a desire to conserve fabric, and partially practical. The circular sleeve gives you almost complete mobility in a skin tight garment, which explains why the style was popular for so long. (For a wonderful discussion of the topic with all the applicable sources, see this well done <a href="http://cottesimple.com/articles/tailoring-grande-assiette/">Article</a>).<br />
<br />
I started with a body pattern pulled almost direct from my body block, as this is a very fitted garment. I used a center back gore in the skirts to give me fullness for my hips and rear, and cut the sleeve holes out to the aproximate shape. Then I used The Cotte Simple's directions for <a href="http://cottesimple.com/tutorials/drafting-grande-assiette-upper-sleeve/">Drafting with your good friend, Math</a> which were very clear and simple and resulted in an almost perfect fit at the first go. I fudged the lower arm (there's a seam at the elbow hinge) but came out with a good result there the first time around as well. With a couple very minor alterations, I went straight to the final garment without a second fitting.<br />
<br />
I decided, based on the example of other local fighters, that I was only going to pad key areas of my gambeson, for the prevention of heat stroke (Who wants to be wrapped in a quilt under their armor on a hot day? NOT ME) Therefore I cut the complete pattern out of white 4.7 oz linen (<a href="http://www.dharmatrading.com/">Dharma Trading</a> again!) then cut a second layer for the areas that were going to be padded. The padded areas are the high wear areas, so I wanted to have the outer layer be a heavier weight. I didn't have any heavy weight linen I wanted to sacrifice for the cause, but I did have a big bag of scraps from making other garments that I had planned to piece crazy quilt style to make a lining for a cloak or something, they were all nice quality and heavier weight, so I decided that my gambeson would be crazy quilt style, and got to piecing.<br />
<br />
With my outer layer ready, I needed to sandwich some sort of stuffing between the layers of linen. Historically wool, flax, and horse hair were used for armor padding. In the modern day, we have a lot more options. I knew I wanted to avoid synthetics at all costs for this project, because of how hot they are. Although cotton is a popular modern choice, I wanted to avoid it because of it's sponge like qualities and slow drying rate, which I thought might lead to my gambeson growing things and developing a powerful stank. Horsehair and flax are not easily available, so that left me to choose between wool, and bamboo, which is noted for it's anti microbial properties. I consulted the various fighter groups, and finally decided to use, not wool batting, but just washed and carded wool fleece from my own stash. Evidently it will felt itself into the shape of my body after a few uses. That, plus the fact that I already have it, were powerful incentives.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Hy0fe02nXz-_Lbl0pM2YIXcwqUGXegBmN1ltUIBIJddQRHXaTYxREW5ejnR-EhD_Sifao7zAsxKJiY9Fu_wMZaBah__VLPp_tGTzqL7h1n0o3iVLWflPVeEomqJYh4MfHH-jaJsjrf48/s1600/DSC_1963%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Hy0fe02nXz-_Lbl0pM2YIXcwqUGXegBmN1ltUIBIJddQRHXaTYxREW5ejnR-EhD_Sifao7zAsxKJiY9Fu_wMZaBah__VLPp_tGTzqL7h1n0o3iVLWflPVeEomqJYh4MfHH-jaJsjrf48/s320/DSC_1963%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I sandwiched the layers together, body of garment, padding, then outer layer, and pinned it to death. I was originally going to quilt this on my treadle machine, but after looking at the sort of dished shape of the back of the garment, decided it would be less painful in the long run to do it by hand. So I quilted all the padded areas with a large stitch and perle cotton. It turned out looking rather like the carapace of some fantastic beetle.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6jW51Zb-iv2Afj7m_ArJ79Uyd-6Ee14aP19Zkly4q2st3aznR4OMsitOtVZPkmt0qs2zufsfvxfY5oZ2xc_SntzB3eruMYuyMAubCyLurTI1hw2VUAdYaYrwxuLX2Ic1spAccWo2kL1MC/s1600/DSC_1947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6jW51Zb-iv2Afj7m_ArJ79Uyd-6Ee14aP19Zkly4q2st3aznR4OMsitOtVZPkmt0qs2zufsfvxfY5oZ2xc_SntzB3eruMYuyMAubCyLurTI1hw2VUAdYaYrwxuLX2Ic1spAccWo2kL1MC/s320/DSC_1947.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
Then I put the sleeves in, This was a bit tricky because I didn't want to catch all that padding in the seams, making a lump to chafe my poor delicate skin under my armor. After consulting with my mom, whose degree in practical fashion design makes her unusually qualified to deal with these problems, I decided to face the inner seam out, clip the padding back and top stitch it down, then cover the whole mess with a piece of trim. I treated the elbow and sleeve seams similarly, although much of that was padded meeting linen, so I clipped back the padding, rolled the edge of the top layer under, and used a tiny invisible hand stitch to put it down. There was no way to get the machine down into the arm to top stitch it (at least not easily) The key was to always trim back as much of the bulk as possible before finishing the edges. This was accomplished by by trimming the padding back so it ended about a quarter to an eight of an inch before the seam (leaving room for any turned under edges) and grading the hidden parts of the seam. This was a lot of work, but it avoided any bulky stiff lumpy chafey seams.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkjD1Jeh-l0haMHqKFreDBW-_Enb_adTY_ZE1N3DNfVMrhI8VyOuxhounOgfkKlaUz_ajTQBbpCLvEWcUxnz-1I16HobZcRjz_UcW_zcxQKXGoBp9DN924EXLKAY8GTVXNujAAXYczAsTe/s1600/DSC_1964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkjD1Jeh-l0haMHqKFreDBW-_Enb_adTY_ZE1N3DNfVMrhI8VyOuxhounOgfkKlaUz_ajTQBbpCLvEWcUxnz-1I16HobZcRjz_UcW_zcxQKXGoBp9DN924EXLKAY8GTVXNujAAXYczAsTe/s320/DSC_1964.JPG" width="214" /></a>I had to finish all the edges of the quilted areas where they met the fabric. The easiest way to do this was to put some bias taped down over the edge. I really wanted to use a linen tape trim, but the price was a little steep, and I ended up going with some cotton bias tape that I already had in a complimentary color of green. I running stitched it down to the linen side, then used a mostly invisible whip stitch to sew it through all three layers of the quilted areas. Sewing through all the layers will keep the quilted edge from pulling free over time and wear.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1QmGVYxL5N9CjK2jZlgsIDHFUwnR7_bgmID0mrPvo6h7tDUyoaySi-AtgxtRXdqOS52RZbxNiVPqg36mX_ZA0L0UrdZYqVzpksBRxIB117K6XFEUuomxKPudj6ahXa_prC_RvwmZyUklD/s1600/DSC_1966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1QmGVYxL5N9CjK2jZlgsIDHFUwnR7_bgmID0mrPvo6h7tDUyoaySi-AtgxtRXdqOS52RZbxNiVPqg36mX_ZA0L0UrdZYqVzpksBRxIB117K6XFEUuomxKPudj6ahXa_prC_RvwmZyUklD/s320/DSC_1966.JPG" width="214" /></a>I finished the cuffs with some silk scraps and a little perle cotton stitching. I don't know how I feel about the stitching. I might do it differently if I did it again. the effect is a little overkill, but then again the whole jacket is a little overkill. the bottom edges I rolled and hemmed, and the collar I finished with a small bias silk strip.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsGqaCcAQEabRW9p9XtgnkSr5eu6n3FMnCMNK2jgsptXeRBv3YIIXcyf-xLVKesyC1L19Q_DfNttNg0BdySiU5zVHf6p6AX0eCymdumHbSU_cwDa2YR3dYs9utCOLn7NVmb-0FGWI8qnHZ/s1600/DSC_1949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsGqaCcAQEabRW9p9XtgnkSr5eu6n3FMnCMNK2jgsptXeRBv3YIIXcyf-xLVKesyC1L19Q_DfNttNg0BdySiU5zVHf6p6AX0eCymdumHbSU_cwDa2YR3dYs9utCOLn7NVmb-0FGWI8qnHZ/s320/DSC_1949.JPG" width="320" /></a>The front edges had to be hearty enough to take ties. So I finished them off with a wide facing strip of very heavy (canvas weight) linen leftover from Husbeast's latest pair of pants. Then I used my favorite method for shirt ties, scaled up. First I put a hole where I wanted the tie using my handy tailors awl. Then I threaded 4 strands of perle cotton through, and finger loop braided short cords. Husbeast has yet to destroy shirt ties made in this manner, and I hope my gambeson will wear equally well. By going through the fabric itself you eliminate the weakest link of the tie: the place where you sewed it down. I also love how tidy it is without any messy sewn on ends or stitches showing on the outside. A little gentle scraping of the fabric with your fingernail shoves all the threads back into place and closes the hole around the cord completely.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMKlGjGESKZAwJ_DVeaaEnFtEzQcKYGxcIoPO2KkeD9DXPBq5AQAamp3eokWt8GgJb8mLznbi_6itae0nPT7XmZWYQfrL97hHJ0p7NfG6zOYq0CDjEvqVbzMTJEP-VSmOP-nYpO_zt54__/s1600/gambeson.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="918" data-original-width="1238" height="473" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMKlGjGESKZAwJ_DVeaaEnFtEzQcKYGxcIoPO2KkeD9DXPBq5AQAamp3eokWt8GgJb8mLznbi_6itae0nPT7XmZWYQfrL97hHJ0p7NfG6zOYq0CDjEvqVbzMTJEP-VSmOP-nYpO_zt54__/s640/gambeson.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Please excuse the crappy mirror selfies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And it was finished! The range of motion in this thing is strictly incredible. Full 360 degree shoulder rotation, I can wrap my arms as far around myself as they will go without straining the garment. I can lift them over my head and barely budge the bottom hem. There is a little extra fabric at the front of the arm. I'm not sure if that can be done away with. The placement of the sleeve hole on this garment is ideal for range of motion, but not ideal for the more sloping away side bust of the female form. Angling the seam line back away down the side of the bust would eliminate the extra fabric, but might reduce range of motion. I still think I look rather like some sort of fantastic beetle, but I more like that than not. I'll use buckles or points to attach my rerebraces and elbows to the gambeson, which will keep them from sliding. Right now I'm using points and am dissatisfied with the ease of getting them tied up by myself and, it may just be the paracord I'm using, but they tend to come undone, which is annoying.<br />
<br />
Here are some better shots of the whole thing laid out so you can see all the glorious details NOT in a slightly dirty mirror.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIkDW7Ta_cfWol_VmugB3bHLNWJuKnyw8ycWt7mrcPDg0W04daUqk5Vv6GX1meaBDzHVc_NEKoYLZT9eIELNp1oC8heJU5EDSxc0xqqr49fPp4PnuapTO1kg_0_dUBBLBMtF_5DKa4KdT/s1600/DSC_1959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1198" data-original-width="1600" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIkDW7Ta_cfWol_VmugB3bHLNWJuKnyw8ycWt7mrcPDg0W04daUqk5Vv6GX1meaBDzHVc_NEKoYLZT9eIELNp1oC8heJU5EDSxc0xqqr49fPp4PnuapTO1kg_0_dUBBLBMtF_5DKa4KdT/s640/DSC_1959.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The elbow has a LOT of bend built in. surprisingly this is less awkward when your arm is held relaxed than you'd think. The elbows look a little poofy because I doubled the padding there compared to the rest of the forarm. I've been whacked on my vambraces with a polearm and it didn't leave a big mark, so they don't need a lot of padding. Elbows are fragile and pointy and should be padded well. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ylk4rMCdmPgdNrKpyKp0YSwyYZYVC2M6sVA86F6Vk-04GoQ72rLkP9jxTVOG2wVE8Jq3BBR9W1V7KaFSivHgq9Clb_JWecZnYXIr04QEFsDDC1zkERfRUrIFCrWjLvbY7kunpZB-mnaq/s1600/DSC_1960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1115" data-original-width="1600" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ylk4rMCdmPgdNrKpyKp0YSwyYZYVC2M6sVA86F6Vk-04GoQ72rLkP9jxTVOG2wVE8Jq3BBR9W1V7KaFSivHgq9Clb_JWecZnYXIr04QEFsDDC1zkERfRUrIFCrWjLvbY7kunpZB-mnaq/s640/DSC_1960.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with it open you can see the construction, the quilted channels, and also the front facings. there are no interior seams to bother my skin. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuV94SGV-NNSyvMpXUsqS444up7v_yNwOByv7t8giRuWhGqGHwqyrqOIJgXSIQDW1xW-WMf1NB1IMq_jlhZaEcR20kQY_EyuXd4XdlYHy9DMIR-XQy2_-XWHnD-hsLtNuudEc4fwW4COI/s1600/DSC_1961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1153" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuV94SGV-NNSyvMpXUsqS444up7v_yNwOByv7t8giRuWhGqGHwqyrqOIJgXSIQDW1xW-WMf1NB1IMq_jlhZaEcR20kQY_EyuXd4XdlYHy9DMIR-XQy2_-XWHnD-hsLtNuudEc4fwW4COI/s640/DSC_1961.JPG" width="460" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beetle carapace. the padding on the back is quite heavy. it doesn't limit my motion there, and it will do a good ob of protecting my kidneys. I also went pretty heavy with the padding on the upper back, because that will not be covered by hard material, so I think the extra padding will be welcome. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-47650666531640647482017-06-06T10:09:00.000-07:002017-06-06T10:09:01.555-07:00Ladybug's Aumoniere (Or the stupid embroidered bag) When I made the boys their viking pouches, I wanted to make something for Ladybug as well, Since she's doing the 14th century princess deal, it seemed like an ideal time to make a stab at one of the delightful little embroidered pouches common to that century, and have a try at opus anglicanum at the same time.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1_436SxdwZyfNFA15BCZWYGEaOGP9qvepoWtEu8NYllKQGCVlDLhnR62uhX-sGSTUjkwjGNqmRAWT3f4N2uwrSMjVJSRa2_oU86WiGoJbIRd-x2Q0x9hPt8Mq32_zwjbVzz-iMAZpBt7f/s1600/1340_rectangular_Paris_large.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1182" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1_436SxdwZyfNFA15BCZWYGEaOGP9qvepoWtEu8NYllKQGCVlDLhnR62uhX-sGSTUjkwjGNqmRAWT3f4N2uwrSMjVJSRa2_oU86WiGoJbIRd-x2Q0x9hPt8Mq32_zwjbVzz-iMAZpBt7f/s320/1340_rectangular_Paris_large.jpg" width="252" /></a>I started my project with a beautiful extant bag, a little research, and a lot of talking to people who'd done recreations. I'll list some sources for good information on these delightful bags at the bottom, other people have done the research far better and more organizedly than I have!<br />
<br />
These little bags feature as a group: a foreground worked in split stitch, with a limited color palette, that is, only two shades in each field with which to work the shading. Details are frequently worked in some sort of running or back stitch, and outlines worked in stem stitch. The backgrounds are worked in couching or laid work with metallic threads. The drawstring area typically is couched, and then has eyelets worked over the couching. The bags could be decorated with beads along the edges, bobbles, bells, or tassels. Most commonly these bags depict "scenes of courtly love" or romantic stories. Tristian and Isolde for instance, or patient Griselda. <br />
<br />
For Ladybugs bag, I chose to not use a scene of love, but to draw inspiration from the styles of the<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu5RYRswMkDPYxlAe74az78epBjRczR47XAylsUWGwi0b1sciGXWqCFSLBE0cFNUZDSMwJzGKO0K3S4TbmBcGvx2XWptqGwYIJwulXYBxBICUuCU7cKATBOavTUAde5DIPCECVqzE-KJ5a/s1600/DSC_1697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu5RYRswMkDPYxlAe74az78epBjRczR47XAylsUWGwi0b1sciGXWqCFSLBE0cFNUZDSMwJzGKO0K3S4TbmBcGvx2XWptqGwYIJwulXYBxBICUuCU7cKATBOavTUAde5DIPCECVqzE-KJ5a/s320/DSC_1697.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
bags, and other period artwork, and draw a scene with a princess, which included her badge, the magpie. I drew the tree direct from the romance of alexander, than drew a scene around it trying to stay true to the period artistic feel, which included a unique scaling that enlarges items to make detail visible or give them more importance. I transferred the design with ink to the linen, then put it on my rolling slate frame. This was my first time using a slate frame, and I really loved it, although next time I will take more care with dressing it. I didn't hem the edges of my fabric, and I feel that as a result, the tension across was not as even as I would have liked.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_2L9WHJke25pV7IWaOdD3oWp8yI1yFalXadpW9WQCyiPdOsfKfleL-9aXsr7rhLTRtovd3wLSR5jXeWlfzNVt5QndUuQdTcIF9rnaPDjCOXdtBgzdVxvgBufskH_T7RVxW1otiwBgaSS/s1600/DSC_1698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_2L9WHJke25pV7IWaOdD3oWp8yI1yFalXadpW9WQCyiPdOsfKfleL-9aXsr7rhLTRtovd3wLSR5jXeWlfzNVt5QndUuQdTcIF9rnaPDjCOXdtBgzdVxvgBufskH_T7RVxW1otiwBgaSS/s320/DSC_1698.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5JtMKOndemFowdUeisJlH-C485pbo-S5LKKZn-EhYOFWZuyIpBv2KWpufXiOKpWXnOCNd3cQWqvSS8n63va2GbpOUip-SA7q_jpvqDqnfB6qFXLJ4dz_6_g1n6n_JRtTSTLofi3h3c0SB/s1600/DSC_1744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5JtMKOndemFowdUeisJlH-C485pbo-S5LKKZn-EhYOFWZuyIpBv2KWpufXiOKpWXnOCNd3cQWqvSS8n63va2GbpOUip-SA7q_jpvqDqnfB6qFXLJ4dz_6_g1n6n_JRtTSTLofi3h3c0SB/s320/DSC_1744.JPG" width="214" /></a>With everything prepared I began to work. Using two colors of DMC cotton floss for each field (yes, cotton. Ladybug is 7. I'm not using silk.), I first outlined with stem stitch, then filled with split, I found that it was helpful to use a colored pencill to lightly work the shading before I started embroidering an area, that gave me an easily followed guide, but I didn't risk smudging the work by shading it all at once. it was a time consuming process. The stitches are very VERY small, and the back of the work gets quite built up as you go. Each leaf on the tree took more than an hour to work. <br />
<br />
When I first started I had some trouble getting the threads started without making an even bigger lump. I found that if I made a couple stitches on the surface, it would temporarily secure the end. after I'd worked a row over it, I could come back and cut it off. When I finished a thread,I just ran it through a little of the backside of the work, then clipped it off short. I discovered in short order that it was really important to have no loose threads on the back of the work, because they cause knots, and knots make the work really difficult. There's enough bulk in the back of the stitch as is without any knots. if I had a little end hanging out for some reason (maybe the thread knotted and I didn't notice, etc) I found I could hold it out of the way with a straight pin until I 'd worked over it, then cut it short.<br />
<br />
The face was really difficult to do well. I'm still not 100% happy with the outcome. I had some trouble with the shading in such a small area. it did turn out acceptable,but I think that it would have been better had I used a slightly higher contrast in my flesh tone threads. I used a tight backstitch to make the small details, and to differentiate between fingers, and help the hand stand out from the flesh of the neck. I think if I'd picked a better contrast in the flesh tones I may not have had to do so much of this. This technique does appear in period examples though, so I don't feel too badly about it.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6s0flWYxeO4QX5csrkACdP3gMeTHxoqFSwDSLKGqKs6dTo7krSmfKVz68Se4vDfF7jpv5T-vjAnIjEljmd4-qW8cx98MjA9a22GebHecQidhiD4Z0OQCCIdZkmuC-fUhk2Ty_U8i8v6wA/s1600/DSC_1762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6s0flWYxeO4QX5csrkACdP3gMeTHxoqFSwDSLKGqKs6dTo7krSmfKVz68Se4vDfF7jpv5T-vjAnIjEljmd4-qW8cx98MjA9a22GebHecQidhiD4Z0OQCCIdZkmuC-fUhk2Ty_U8i8v6wA/s320/DSC_1762.JPG" width="320" /></a>With the face done it was on to the underside couched background. I used Krenik #5 braid for this project. It was a stab in the dark picking thread, because I have no frame of reference for it. Doing the couching was easy enough, although getting the turns nice was very fiddly. But the thread I chose wasn't ideal. Even though I spaced the thread very closely, the springyness of it, along with the relatively small size, meant that I just didn't get good coverage. it's ok. but it's not great. it would work fine for standard front side couching. but it wasn't a good choice for this application. I'm keeping some of it on a card for reference. As I continue to use gold threads I will keep building a little library of these cards, and hopefully in future have a small library to help me make better thread choices.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv92q4bQaMDdk0t_IciNukOgW_MuwNLRAhIQ-ZVHASAAlsM_ubHvI1gJl-PU3O2uyjQ06I-pOj8nmgjyAr-S2_-TQarcy_zzuu67bBegN106K-cp6_cUerGgkC5KJIRwI5CcwMqS1cRXm3/s1600/DSC_1769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv92q4bQaMDdk0t_IciNukOgW_MuwNLRAhIQ-ZVHASAAlsM_ubHvI1gJl-PU3O2uyjQ06I-pOj8nmgjyAr-S2_-TQarcy_zzuu67bBegN106K-cp6_cUerGgkC5KJIRwI5CcwMqS1cRXm3/s320/DSC_1769.JPG" width="214" /></a>I worked over the top of the gold with standard couching in purple, then worked eyelets over that to make the drawstring area. Then I applied a silk backing and made it into a pouch, which was somewhat fiddly. it was hard to decide the best way to do it. Original pouches were embroidered on both sides, and then put together with a narrow woven band at the sides, but I decided to embroider only one side of Ladybugs pouch, because the back side would just get destroyed rubbing against her dress. I ended up wrapping the back of the pouch around the front, and hand stitching it down right along the edge of the embroidery. Fiddly but it didn't risk getting the embroidery caught in the bag proper.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNKoFn9wp03hY4cYuq0vspmg5NXVb1pk62th7vSCJCLP6yMINr3BM_xl3eK4qrWcyWJXwz2DojhgwcO0CIo6NRqgCUHCgyPUPEp-qsTqQULJnJJhgIWBnmJ_h-EKiktggPRgVLkM7hBdLI/s1600/DSC_1771.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNKoFn9wp03hY4cYuq0vspmg5NXVb1pk62th7vSCJCLP6yMINr3BM_xl3eK4qrWcyWJXwz2DojhgwcO0CIo6NRqgCUHCgyPUPEp-qsTqQULJnJJhgIWBnmJ_h-EKiktggPRgVLkM7hBdLI/s320/DSC_1771.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I don't know why it won't let me put these pictures right side up.<br />You can see the failure in coverage for the goldwork here though. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
It was really hard to get photos of this project, the gold was so sparkly it seemed to throw the focus off on my camera.<br />
<br />
I did enter this in our local Arts and Sciences competition at a recent event, Wars of the Roses. I didn't win the championship, but I did win the populace vote. I was too busy to get good pictures myself, but the lovely Catherine de la Broderesse took these.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3V5TDeDx-fiex2mfAV3FXxwgadTq9JkH3PA36IdsIaQ0KHPahtroH51HeRRfEfYmyyYzNIat-BDSg_PaBn8wqOXBje9qXPgTruyB9zzOdetR7PnoxOJTNQpdwlipEFce74AVdktmL69JW/s1600/display.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3V5TDeDx-fiex2mfAV3FXxwgadTq9JkH3PA36IdsIaQ0KHPahtroH51HeRRfEfYmyyYzNIat-BDSg_PaBn8wqOXBje9qXPgTruyB9zzOdetR7PnoxOJTNQpdwlipEFce74AVdktmL69JW/s640/display.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQ77_aCYLT8zdpjWoESDVJgnFuBXHHEs4lwLLB3noxwUaWM6eugYiyQWT129YVbMyIR2IKtlDyJwoJWnIRC4cuqXE_3YWflobx2HTi4ibSrFmA1bzEOUhSsFILwgK4fNOPfYNbZ5EadJj/s1600/18739099_10155580671674928_5915853293339521864_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQ77_aCYLT8zdpjWoESDVJgnFuBXHHEs4lwLLB3noxwUaWM6eugYiyQWT129YVbMyIR2IKtlDyJwoJWnIRC4cuqXE_3YWflobx2HTi4ibSrFmA1bzEOUhSsFILwgK4fNOPfYNbZ5EadJj/s640/18739099_10155580671674928_5915853293339521864_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Over all this was a great experience. I'm not 100% happy with the outcome, and I'm sad I didn't win the championship, but Ladybug is over the moon about it, and I learned a lot, so I'm going to call it a win.<br />
<br />
Resources:<br />
http://cottesimple.com/articles/aumonieres/<br />
http://thomasguild.blogspot.com/2013/11/aumonieres-and-purses-from-germany.html<br />
http://rosaliegilbert.com/purses.html<br />
http://cottesimple.com/articles/aumoniere-reconstruction/<br />
https://opusanglicanum.wordpress.com/2015/05/06/lovers-purse/<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-45979906496089634802017-05-22T06:40:00.000-07:002017-05-22T06:40:24.367-07:00A pair of viking pouches, and some other children's accessories This year we are doing a much larger number of SCA events, partially because the children are older, and partially because my husband and I are both involved in fighting now, so a lot of events that I never had any reason to go to are now of interest to us. We have planned a summer slate that includes several weekend camping events, which is pretty exciting but means everyone needs a wardrobe instead of an outfit. With their chosen wardrobe (two small vikings, on 14th century princess, 1 tiny human) I decided that everyone this year should have a few small key accessories to go with their outfit. Particularly a pouch to carry small treasures, a favor that doubles as an ID tag (kid tag is what they call them around here) and a belt. The boys already had tablet woven belts, and I decided to purchase one for ladybug that she would get a lot of years out of.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghMlktCOH1eIUU07zLlcn_NG4PR85GI0_vATvOJHjKxte2h8WEN_0Tb2tCSgaGoX5SBk9IpwLnJCPiDadOYStZ3iUbTCQCmi5_iIvxkAgxJnNeJrDUtWF_D0SfrWLHcIsJncc6OhjmZ_GU/s1600/birka+pouch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghMlktCOH1eIUU07zLlcn_NG4PR85GI0_vATvOJHjKxte2h8WEN_0Tb2tCSgaGoX5SBk9IpwLnJCPiDadOYStZ3iUbTCQCmi5_iIvxkAgxJnNeJrDUtWF_D0SfrWLHcIsJncc6OhjmZ_GU/s320/birka+pouch.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pouch from Birka</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Since the boys are small vikings, I made them basic kidney shaped belt pouches with a flap closure, There have been a number of pouch and pouch hardware grave finds, a beautiful little lyre shaped fur coin purse at Birka, a box shaped strap closed pouch in Ireland (grave L/P 9) and a number of the basic round bottomed shape with strap closure, both at Birka, and in other places. I had seen at some point in my internet wanderings the most adorable small pouches with fur flaps and toggle closures rather than the more historically accurate strap and hardware closure. I thought the boys would really enjoy those, and they looked something I already had most of the supplies for, and simple enough for even a novice leatherworker like myself to be successful in making, so I gave it a whirl.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqFmPNUoq1yzexqtQR0IsDYrnPUHOIgA8ScPo1VzuCJKKBzhyphenhyphenY4YxY71kZ9TlL0frOFJ4rqlAuUaRY22RPlQzLtzB_jRGO0PmuCJIryIrAliRWy4opQXa6eUeFjEqAARTXfY-kAVt3jFeK/s1600/DSC_1508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqFmPNUoq1yzexqtQR0IsDYrnPUHOIgA8ScPo1VzuCJKKBzhyphenhyphenY4YxY71kZ9TlL0frOFJ4rqlAuUaRY22RPlQzLtzB_jRGO0PmuCJIryIrAliRWy4opQXa6eUeFjEqAARTXfY-kAVt3jFeK/s320/DSC_1508.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
I made a pattern out of cereal box, and taped it together for proof of concept. Basically you just cut a shape the size that you want the pouch to be, and a slightly smaller shape for the flap. I traced the bottom of my front and back shape to make a flap that would echo the curve properly. The only slightly tricky bit is getting the side of the pouch. it looks best if it's tapered a bit at both ends, but the edge has to be the same length as the edge of the pouch piece. Taping it all together with some masking tape is an easy way to be sure all the pieces of the puzzle fit properly.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA9OzjgrrJRzflG4mGShbuQdF00SgDdKbZP45p7cv2KvH8PVeLHKMq0CuTyvWH_UgZO2-1dwibzKpLA6r2UAozv4hUykRZT3vvcaePqMv6Ac2l9yr8xZ4mKzHKQfL4aRbg8kkg9YCGE_Qw/s1600/DSC_1509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA9OzjgrrJRzflG4mGShbuQdF00SgDdKbZP45p7cv2KvH8PVeLHKMq0CuTyvWH_UgZO2-1dwibzKpLA6r2UAozv4hUykRZT3vvcaePqMv6Ac2l9yr8xZ4mKzHKQfL4aRbg8kkg9YCGE_Qw/s320/DSC_1509.JPG" width="320" /></a>With the pattern done, I traced it onto some of my scrap leather. I had enough for one of all one color/type of leather, and a second of mixed colors. <br />
<br />
Although the original pouches seemed to all have one central loop to go over the belt, I decided for little folks that it'd be easier, more balanced, and sturdier to have two belt loops. This is a loosely "viking style" pouch not a recreation of a historical item. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR8lfFBJvavY1EbBgummVMjji4xKQDiaTcXgkO1NqSrbqbk4feBGZzPaH9rdPPl4r3m8k_ZE07PF0DuU-oOsJayTCXYZPJIR37gizzby-X5BfWmV4lXclA6il2UrKr5Vo6do8NEYjcb3zT/s1600/DSC_1512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR8lfFBJvavY1EbBgummVMjji4xKQDiaTcXgkO1NqSrbqbk4feBGZzPaH9rdPPl4r3m8k_ZE07PF0DuU-oOsJayTCXYZPJIR37gizzby-X5BfWmV4lXclA6il2UrKr5Vo6do8NEYjcb3zT/s320/DSC_1512.JPG" width="320" /></a>I have a big bag off fur off cuts that I purchased as a lot from a furrier some years back for small projects like this. I scouted through and let the boys pick from the more likely options. Both pieces were a little too small, but that's the beautiful thing about fur, you can seam it in all kinds of funny ways on the back, and as long as the fur is lying in the same direction you can't tell from the front. Most off the off cuts I got in my bag were already seamed. Sometimes you may have to dampen and stretch the piece after applying a patch, but I didn't have to here, just carefully brush the fur over the seam. (I have a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/How-Sew-Leather-Suede-Fur/dp/0020119305/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495459228&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+sew+fur+and+leather+book">wonderful book</a> about working with leather and fur that details how to stretch, seam, and patch furs.) You can use a sharps needle on most fur, but a glovers needle will make it go far faster and easier.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgveyZj4sflQIUZ8FhpNloxAzTlXUY1V2A0uQG9q3g7ps4Vf7MPs-PKbH709fptHxODDShovh-P4f0Cua6t-By8RuaUZVqIdhHDOQJo7N6o3ge3hIuYxxoQZgAH6PocDGbABldFoX_WzjcA/s1600/DSC_1516.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgveyZj4sflQIUZ8FhpNloxAzTlXUY1V2A0uQG9q3g7ps4Vf7MPs-PKbH709fptHxODDShovh-P4f0Cua6t-By8RuaUZVqIdhHDOQJo7N6o3ge3hIuYxxoQZgAH6PocDGbABldFoX_WzjcA/s320/DSC_1516.JPG" width="320" /></a>I haven't done much fur work, I've trimmed a couple garments with strips though, and I've found the easiest way to cut it is very carefully, from the back, with a very sharp razor blade. I find it easiest to make a number of shallower cuts to get through the skin rather than press hard and possibly cut the fur strands on the other side. With the seams on the back, I decided to line the flaps in linen. This required some problem solving, since you don't want to use a big seam allowance on fur but if you use a teeny seam allowance on linen that you've cut on the bias around a corner it's just going to come out of the seam. Fray check was the answer for me. I fray checked the linen pieces before I sewed them on, then over the stitches after I sewed them. I'm fairly certain they will now hold up to most any little boy abuses my sons can think of! The trickiest bit of the operation was keeping all the furry bits out of the seam!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFuLxYn4E7Ka60FcB69GVAeaRrQVXb6LrLhgO80lTBL00-1jGB4xQbQ6PCzDaT-9L4j5xl7FZrkZDIL4uSyY6h5O9X9BxQaUZTby3h7v0mJP7wGmUQHXZbrQnTXvsl97krkH9vi4XWmTu/s1600/DSC_1523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFuLxYn4E7Ka60FcB69GVAeaRrQVXb6LrLhgO80lTBL00-1jGB4xQbQ6PCzDaT-9L4j5xl7FZrkZDIL4uSyY6h5O9X9BxQaUZTby3h7v0mJP7wGmUQHXZbrQnTXvsl97krkH9vi4XWmTu/s320/DSC_1523.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
I sewed the pouches together with an whip stitch over the edges. The first one I just did by eye, but the second one I got clever and used my stitching punches for (even though the leather was thin enough to just use the glovers needle.) This made the end result neater and quicker.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicxldhRwzC-czWpAVdgMHWbf7o6lt-Xdh4NXZeS32mpiOux5kubUBjcQslQVqJOKZxhNmLSk4ACVeuqd9B-9wlCSTS_K3MVI1IhIWWBp7UB0WQoQ52sMvAqb-MtWK_B6QSvGAAlc43Wt76/s1600/DSC_1525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicxldhRwzC-czWpAVdgMHWbf7o6lt-Xdh4NXZeS32mpiOux5kubUBjcQslQVqJOKZxhNmLSk4ACVeuqd9B-9wlCSTS_K3MVI1IhIWWBp7UB0WQoQ52sMvAqb-MtWK_B6QSvGAAlc43Wt76/s320/DSC_1525.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
I applied the pouch cover with a very tight over cast stitch through both the linen and the fur into the leather. then I basically drenched the whole seam in fray check. (Hey, I know how crash and bang are, bless their hearts.) Once the fray check had dried I slightly dampened the pouch side of the seam with a spray bottle, and then used a second piece of scrap leather as a pad, and hammered the seam into place. This was a technique I hadn't used before, from my leather sewing book, and it really improved both the look and function of the flap.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK61zl1aHmcO9-T8s86T4aFiBWd7L_OOy0LoAJCsv3a0oCLCNHyURvD8r5mUAfqndi0G9VuyXduYKsRjhUFPP6oyN7ovVInqGWzlPc6odAWik-nYS2xkfpC22JsW-jJYco5n_IUVdeG9xF/s1600/DSC_1526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK61zl1aHmcO9-T8s86T4aFiBWd7L_OOy0LoAJCsv3a0oCLCNHyURvD8r5mUAfqndi0G9VuyXduYKsRjhUFPP6oyN7ovVInqGWzlPc6odAWik-nYS2xkfpC22JsW-jJYco5n_IUVdeG9xF/s320/DSC_1526.JPG" width="214" /></a><br />
Then I dampened the leather with a spray bottle and wet blocked them onto my ironing board, pinning the seams down and pressing them open with my fingers from the inside so the bags had a nice square shape at the bottom. This is also a new step for me, and it made an immense difference in the final product.<br />
<br />
The original pouches I had seen (I don't remember where or I'd credit them for the idea) had either wooden or antler toggle style buttons with a little loop of cord. I rally liked this idea, so I looked for antler toggle buttons. They're really expensive. Instead I bought a whole bag of antler tips for a fraction of the cost, Husbeast sanded the rough edges where they'd been sawed, and drilled holes in them.He did this outside and I wore a dust mask because the dust isn't good for you. With a couple thread loops, the project was a wrap!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiMoO_uP33VrUKSOUF7hWgY_tS5DGqjfrxeUBtMzzEzDDbS3rdqUA7Siiu_MzUiq5Osyt7g88o2yqMhaqY9qLGN3UjI5GC-mKPkrMB6Zmv0f3jdANFWMkVr2V9YgMECzELQWSwbRdu1qk/s1600/DSC_1758%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiMoO_uP33VrUKSOUF7hWgY_tS5DGqjfrxeUBtMzzEzDDbS3rdqUA7Siiu_MzUiq5Osyt7g88o2yqMhaqY9qLGN3UjI5GC-mKPkrMB6Zmv0f3jdANFWMkVr2V9YgMECzELQWSwbRdu1qk/s320/DSC_1758%255B1%255D.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
The kids all received queens tokens at a recent event, of which they are understandably proud. Bang opted to have his mounted on the flap of his purse, while Crash requested his be made into a necklace that he could wear.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5GCjPuIfBJmC6rYHAnkhJjYUFzdqfuPSHqN6MpaVecC4b2OdfYbWB6lHqwDTTte9qZqY3yyVTaYGV6VVoe33-XEnTNkJ_Pc81Agl9cBabtlfXFkmQ5TJlQRXQxFZRGJ8b_t0NSWSxNotb/s1600/DSC_1414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5GCjPuIfBJmC6rYHAnkhJjYUFzdqfuPSHqN6MpaVecC4b2OdfYbWB6lHqwDTTte9qZqY3yyVTaYGV6VVoe33-XEnTNkJ_Pc81Agl9cBabtlfXFkmQ5TJlQRXQxFZRGJ8b_t0NSWSxNotb/s320/DSC_1414.JPG" width="320" /></a>At a large event there is always the possibility that your child could be somehow lost or injured, and it's really good for them to have non visible but easily accessible ID on them just in case. Last year I saw someone with a very clever idea: her daughter had a belt favor embroidered with a lovely little squirrel, and on the back, safe from prying eyes, her full name, and all the pertinent emergency information I thought this was really clever. The little girl was so proud of her favor, and it kept the information secure and with her. I took that idea, and made each of my children a favor with the arms of the group we camp with on it, and an animal. Ladybug with her love of all things shiny got a magpie, Crash, for obvious reasons, a Bear, and Bang picked a hedgehog in a narrow contest against a badger: which is oddly appropriate. I did each of the favors in a slightly different style on different materials: Ladybugs is cotton on linen canvas, done in petit point. Crash's is wool on wool and linen in split and chain stitch. Stephen's is cotton on linen and silk, in split and chain, and Kittens is wool on linen in split and stem stitch. Everyone picked their backing materials from my scrap stash. Kittens is the only one that is different: hers is armed with a pair of safety pins sewn very firmly in place, and can be pinned direct to the back of her gown where she can't reach it. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyRo5kYZKtVBxXZbVkFQLqbjjPIurQj-1WB2Ey65LryDWOMpOJPYKtlWjRdczWx45aSdfbkaVAh-RjW7BiJz5AKZup6-_yH3bHeMB-0FWsEV9ChyphenhyphenJv4VdxL0gfpmkfoSAoE6szb6j9B8y/s1600/DSC_1758%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyRo5kYZKtVBxXZbVkFQLqbjjPIurQj-1WB2Ey65LryDWOMpOJPYKtlWjRdczWx45aSdfbkaVAh-RjW7BiJz5AKZup6-_yH3bHeMB-0FWsEV9ChyphenhyphenJv4VdxL0gfpmkfoSAoE6szb6j9B8y/s320/DSC_1758%255B1%255D.JPG" width="214" /></a>On the back of each favor is a standard military dog tag with the child's name, our name, and all the pertinent contact and allergy information. We've also had a few discussions with the horde reinforcing the obvious safety concerns, but also teaching them that in case they SHOULD somehow get lost or separated (it's never happened yet, but better safe than sorry) they should find the nearest person wearing a coronet or driving a golf cart and present them (politely) with their kid tag.<br />
<br />
I'm still working on a pouch for Ladybug, my 14th century princess, in the style of a aumoniere, and her belt hasn't come yet, but hopefully I'll have those sorted for her by our second summer event.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-72679884571746958862017-05-15T08:11:00.000-07:002018-01-10T20:24:04.607-08:00In search of Armor: Undergarments<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK0NlrAn2ClxBvR-uRh9ZGr833DL1wCW4RGNi8iozDExCgvO9E6UEod_rF709nk5Kyr8kDGlYs-U6Xs5KflnxkFOtOxMiXrC148qjdHaCyLUmdxBC6O8Hau8Z2hwzc7QWJ56Vd73AJSWPI/s1600/DSC_1707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK0NlrAn2ClxBvR-uRh9ZGr833DL1wCW4RGNi8iozDExCgvO9E6UEod_rF709nk5Kyr8kDGlYs-U6Xs5KflnxkFOtOxMiXrC148qjdHaCyLUmdxBC6O8Hau8Z2hwzc7QWJ56Vd73AJSWPI/s320/DSC_1707.JPG" width="257" /></a></div>
Because I wanted to build my armor from the skin out to ensure optimum fit, I had to start at the very beginning, with the foundation garments that go under it all. I had decided at the beginning in the design phase to try and make a supportive linen undergarment to replace my modern sports bra. This was for a few reasons. One reason was comfort. The wicking power of linen is insane, it's the coolest most comfortable fabric out there, even more than many of the "high tech" sports fabrics. Another reason was that I kind of doubted women would have worn neon green sports bras if they went off to war (I equally do NOT buy that women didn't wear any underwear before we developed the modern bra. Whoever came up with that idea was clearly a dude. A dude who had never talked to a girl.) But the most important reason was because currently at practice, I get to stand around in my hot sweat soaked gear while the guys strip down and either walk around half naked to cool off, or change into gloriously dry clothing. I'm jealous. I want to be able to change into dry clothes too! So I designed a wrapping top, probably most accurately called a breast band, that, while I probably won't be comfortable just stripping down to and walking around in, I'm at least comfortable in stripping down to for long enough to change into a dry tunic!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8QWfux7nOt-pV2TLLYgjL7AaIqbboTh3G6JapkMfJvCdLXuaPzSktB1jy1VSIZIRVGV9j5bgzDIhSHCWE-FqFN1xtIoOW_eiTL9fxJmdqCmkYzJlIUdyvLq1kfcOJzk0wrhSUlqxcwDu/s1600/DSC_1716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8QWfux7nOt-pV2TLLYgjL7AaIqbboTh3G6JapkMfJvCdLXuaPzSktB1jy1VSIZIRVGV9j5bgzDIhSHCWE-FqFN1xtIoOW_eiTL9fxJmdqCmkYzJlIUdyvLq1kfcOJzk0wrhSUlqxcwDu/s320/DSC_1716.JPG" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drafting! lots of rulers! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The first thing I did was to have someone (Blessings to Olivia who knows how to measure and is willing to help) measure me for a new body block. My last body block is pre babies and will never fit again. I've put off making a new one, because I find drafting patterns for my fluffy self depressing, but for this kind of fitted garment, you just have to have one. What you ask is a body block? A body block is the perfect representation of your 3 dimensional shape, with all your unique bumps and wiggles, rendered flat onto paper. If done properly, when it's made up in muslin it will fit you like a second skin. This provides the foundation for drafting patterns that actually fit with a minimum of fussing. Once I have a body block I can make almost any garment from it and need only one fitting to iron out any small problems with fit. It's the invaluable tool of the custom pattern drafter.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabNAY3YEPQ75IYfPOBwPWrJAgHWilLuIuXk9-N20cP-vET830pSvKI-coNIGAjcYAKJRaJakJzDsePKw0E9xcMGDyP4pqfPNIPm8lKxCWu-qhQc25npS78k8smzftmKqhlp9IMGkRJroU/s1600/DSC_1717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabNAY3YEPQ75IYfPOBwPWrJAgHWilLuIuXk9-N20cP-vET830pSvKI-coNIGAjcYAKJRaJakJzDsePKw0E9xcMGDyP4pqfPNIPm8lKxCWu-qhQc25npS78k8smzftmKqhlp9IMGkRJroU/s320/DSC_1717.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my front and back hip length block. No sleeve on this one.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Since I'm being all technical and stuff here, I'd like to take a moment to clear up some terminology confusion. A body block is a flat representation of a specific person's body, used as a tool to draft patterns for that person. A Sloper is a generic body block, made in standard sizes (not specifically for one person) used in commercial pattern drafting. So if you work in a fashion house, you might go grab the size 8 sloper to make a dress pattern. If you draft from measurements directly to the pattern for say a bodice or a doublet, (which is a fascinating period technique), it is neither a Block, nor a Sloper, it is a Pattern. You have completely skipped the Sloper/Block step of pattern drafting and gone directly to the end goal: a pattern that fits. I prefer, usually, to work from a block, because if I go direct to pattern I have to re-do the drafting process every time: if I have a block I just trace the pattern off and make the appropriate alterations.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKiwvl4vw-ZVrP_D7pgNpkbNuvL_ra6KLtwF-N4gAYlXXlEA5f8OjuxmrN2znh4LSGArH9x8WRI7-TnkyT9caPd06xOglRPx19kt7D9cLq1t3qndJYS9nunB7rTsg0576_HS-vYzHbpM60/s1600/DSC_1718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKiwvl4vw-ZVrP_D7pgNpkbNuvL_ra6KLtwF-N4gAYlXXlEA5f8OjuxmrN2znh4LSGArH9x8WRI7-TnkyT9caPd06xOglRPx19kt7D9cLq1t3qndJYS9nunB7rTsg0576_HS-vYzHbpM60/s320/DSC_1718.JPG" width="320" /></a>Something extremely fitted and supportive like a breast band may require more fiddling than the average garment: even with a good body block, I had to go through two mockups to get the shaping just right. The final product though is super comfortable, very supportive, cool, and un bra like enough that I'm comfortable stripping off to change in the middle of a field full of primarily dudes. (I want to be clear that this is an issue of personal comfort, not of modesty. I applaud any of my sisters in arms who do not feel weird about stripping down and changing, I am not as brave as you!) <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEZB8EPjkElpDeTZyauphPfuVmx1B_dh7IvccjshP0PuYsLDuIGa6R-4r4K9ZyfHyLeBll8BR3nZZoMVwq8n-vYqJN0HCYrtgTOWl339q5xI7a0glH8F2y-lLn54EN0FfJeSoyzrgJY83/s1600/DSC_1747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEZB8EPjkElpDeTZyauphPfuVmx1B_dh7IvccjshP0PuYsLDuIGa6R-4r4K9ZyfHyLeBll8BR3nZZoMVwq8n-vYqJN0HCYrtgTOWl339q5xI7a0glH8F2y-lLn54EN0FfJeSoyzrgJY83/s320/DSC_1747.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The final garment is made of two layers of linen in the front, and one layer, with an extra strength piece added at the center in the back. There's a small loop to keep the straps from shifting around at the center back. The tie is double folded light weight linen. Usually I cut all selvedges off of linen, because they can make your seams bunchy. However here, I used the selvedge in the tie on purpose, because it 100% will NOT stretch.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP6_803b5zG5Fykk8M7EkhvP9BVRkIfqWhZmBd-7H_H35-IKII8uQ7tbChPC6UNgZCDffKyDHV9Lz7c5nzS7vo4Vw6kjal6xxfWJZhHyFvmtopmRZBWMwc1tSnWLAYplYLYNWv271MhK_/s1600/DSC_1754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiP6_803b5zG5Fykk8M7EkhvP9BVRkIfqWhZmBd-7H_H35-IKII8uQ7tbChPC6UNgZCDffKyDHV9Lz7c5nzS7vo4Vw6kjal6xxfWJZhHyFvmtopmRZBWMwc1tSnWLAYplYLYNWv271MhK_/s320/DSC_1754.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
I wanted to give the back a little extra strength, but not make it two layers, so I put a small panel at the center back to give support to the fabric where the straps pull and minimize stretching.The straps are cut on the straight of the grain to minimize stretching.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0phymxUyMmH_KBMoTzfxDP3kgk1c4G-18MQRSomu675BpIjCD4xBujATH7wpmf4o1ycjAlcpLYuQMVPKGKDa4ZJ9WJQvKTCrl0T7bkPJvv4075TzQnLA6MtChNHeSPxhQqnG8l3nOypdq/s1600/DSC_1753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0phymxUyMmH_KBMoTzfxDP3kgk1c4G-18MQRSomu675BpIjCD4xBujATH7wpmf4o1ycjAlcpLYuQMVPKGKDa4ZJ9WJQvKTCrl0T7bkPJvv4075TzQnLA6MtChNHeSPxhQqnG8l3nOypdq/s320/DSC_1753.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
<br />
I need to add a small button hole for the under wrapping strap to come out of, because that is showing a tendancy to slip. All the front edges have three rows of top stitching. This is because they are necessarily cut on the bias, and will be prone to stretching. If this isn't stretch proof I can run a small ribbon through one of the "chanels" formed by the top stitching and sew it in place to firm up the edge.Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-48980654554779925632017-05-03T10:55:00.000-07:002018-01-10T20:24:21.986-08:00In search of armor. A basic design. <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0NIkajd50oOmDN_Eu4aZ_ghODsdCjiEzukGCPQ2FR-JUmAh4s1Lg9ChdJPvU-1wIaM9BUqHBk_JzRusDQkEHTqMyQUGdBmiaih9p8OHpiKH7JwVyQOuAc9Q7icbfcY38c7GU2muQJU2yP/s1600/heavy+roses+2015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0NIkajd50oOmDN_Eu4aZ_ghODsdCjiEzukGCPQ2FR-JUmAh4s1Lg9ChdJPvU-1wIaM9BUqHBk_JzRusDQkEHTqMyQUGdBmiaih9p8OHpiKH7JwVyQOuAc9Q7icbfcY38c7GU2muQJU2yP/s320/heavy+roses+2015.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourney at War of the Roses, 2015<br />
Photo: Daily Gazette</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I have recently started doing SCA Heavy combat, which is something I've been interested in since the first time I saw people doing it, three years ago at Wars of the Roses. I thought, WOW that looks like an amazing amount of fun! But with then 3 kids and another on the way it just didn't seem possible. Well, fast forward two years, and the rest of the family is up to their ears in fencing, so I'm at practice every week, but actually fighting myself seems years away, because someone has to watch the horde. Enter the amazing Olivia Baker, who said something to me like "gee I'd really like to try fencing, but what on earth would I do with the minion while I fight?" And so the fight practice children's play group was born. I watch everyone while Olivia goes off and (safely and carefully) stabs people, then we switch out and I bludgeon people (well, attempt to) while she supervises the horde. It's been amazing, and Heavy is just as fun as I thought it looked the first time I saw it. Probably more!<br />
<br />
The biggest problem with heavy fighting is all the armor. It gets expensive pretty quickly if you're not a smith, and I'm no metal worker. While most baronies keep a lot of loaner gear, if you're not standard guy sized you can have trouble finding things that fit. And armor that doesn't fit leaves spectacular bruises. Luckily one of our local households has a large stock of youth sized loaner gear and were able to set me up with a full kit. Less luckily, because it's household armor, they (very reasonably) requested that it be kept by a household member and transported to practice for me. Because the household member also has a life, which doesn't always coordinate with my life, the armor is not reliably at practice when I am. Between that and the "armor bite" bruises I'm scrambling to get as much of my own kit as quickly as possible.<br />
<br />
Aside from being a blacksmith, There are other options: lamellar plates and pickle barrel or kydex are more acessible to the average human, and less expensive. Leather can be expensive, and there is a skillset to working with it, but it's more flexible and breathable than many other options. I've spent a lot of time since I started fighting looking at all the female kits I could find. because gear that works for girls can be quite different than that which works for guys. I found some options that are more in my own wheelbase: using more garment sewing skills than metal and heavy leather working skills. This also gives me the opportunity to learn a few new skills, particularly working with heavier weights of leather.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJtvUB4V1rZ6-BUAi4vhRQfhOPkT3fAmU5Go8ef1BWd-6vtb19nInkYSeiUdNgkFXaZ9crhQpbV3gb5tikBllrkKll7U5OZv8KJvjxR-pl8qRR7tS8GyJSqXky7oNOIP6a0oHY0bgscvYZ/s1600/medieval-knights-armor-parts_738218.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJtvUB4V1rZ6-BUAi4vhRQfhOPkT3fAmU5Go8ef1BWd-6vtb19nInkYSeiUdNgkFXaZ9crhQpbV3gb5tikBllrkKll7U5OZv8KJvjxR-pl8qRR7tS8GyJSqXky7oNOIP6a0oHY0bgscvYZ/s1600/medieval-knights-armor-parts_738218.jpg" /></a>For design I wanted to maximize flexibility and breathability without sacrificing much in the way of protection. The official rules state that you have to cover your hands, wrists, elbows, knees, kidneys, and neck with "rigid" material backed by regulation padding. (obviously in addition to a helmet and gender specific groin protection) But most fighters add pieces to this to their own taste. As a new fighter I want a lot of protection because I get hit a lot. As I improve I may dispense with some of these pieces, but for now I'm thankful for all the protection I can get, since I don't like the look of layered bruises . I'm adding to the regulation gear: vambraces, Rerebraces, Spaulders (the smaller cousin of the pauldron) and a chest and back piece. I'm hoping to continue borrowing the full legs I've been using for the time being (leather cuisse with articulated metal poleyn and fan plate) because I quite like them. I may consider adding tassets eventually if I keep getting whacked in the hips, but for now I mostly get very good protection from my shield.<br />
<br />
The best way to design and make all this is from the skin out: so that the outer layers would be sure to fit over padding and garments worn underneath.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1wo2CaOQZPZNl_NbXIJITsxTJvUvNWpZ6rd41FKRQSyu2dTAKK-4hJmODkhTsgH98dXk3oclkBpxmRJF5y0WNfly6DcQLb2-hrS0JRlAGN1d90UVQRclDksFBP7cKxRMA-QZ_m04J7f9y/s1600/DSC_1707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1wo2CaOQZPZNl_NbXIJITsxTJvUvNWpZ6rd41FKRQSyu2dTAKK-4hJmODkhTsgH98dXk3oclkBpxmRJF5y0WNfly6DcQLb2-hrS0JRlAGN1d90UVQRclDksFBP7cKxRMA-QZ_m04J7f9y/s320/DSC_1707.JPG" width="257" /></a>Layer 1: a wrapped linen supportive top. Thorsbjurg trousers with leg wraps. and a closely fitted gamebeson with grand assiette sleeves for freedom of motion. The gambeson is quilted with padding over key areas, but not all over to facilitate not dying of heat stroke.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5mByI1rei2SdGIgHro5NDSBuPGKsGiEmUi1P_Xo6SVJofnSZbNeSCpYnGFUsHQwOn9WcDsLtYJ4AM3N7SUPVyax84-drAHqMEmhetGsigsjGEsD4PQyvG3Fu8PoZmST4xETY-_uC0j8A/s1600/DSC_1708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5mByI1rei2SdGIgHro5NDSBuPGKsGiEmUi1P_Xo6SVJofnSZbNeSCpYnGFUsHQwOn9WcDsLtYJ4AM3N7SUPVyax84-drAHqMEmhetGsigsjGEsD4PQyvG3Fu8PoZmST4xETY-_uC0j8A/s320/DSC_1708.JPG" width="260" /></a>Layer 2: Rerebraces attached to couters are pointed (meaning tied) to the shoulders of the gambeson. Couters are purchased from Rough From the Hammer and made of aluminum. Rerebraces are going to be either kydex or leather (still arguing with myself) A tall fitted kidney belt with lacing for adjustment, and buckles to get in and out, covers my kidney area and supports my leg armor while spreading the weight of said leg armor evenly over my hips. This garter style comes recommended by other female fighters, and I'm looking forward to getting rid of the highly uncomfortable leg belt.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTz9XTwaDMn-3Ijg4Y-A4wtGvNm_tFX1A53oalsdIxxIaJSieJCVJqI8VrM8b9QC0yRQurakk21mAr1IuRYPdQK1vM4YguO8TJ14c1iple5rYGpti8Quq99OTytiV7u0vCDrbr2OrgX-aL/s1600/DSC_1709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTz9XTwaDMn-3Ijg4Y-A4wtGvNm_tFX1A53oalsdIxxIaJSieJCVJqI8VrM8b9QC0yRQurakk21mAr1IuRYPdQK1vM4YguO8TJ14c1iple5rYGpti8Quq99OTytiV7u0vCDrbr2OrgX-aL/s320/DSC_1709.JPG" width="278" /></a>Layer 3: a fighting tunic goes over the whole thing, and is belted on. Over that I put on a shaped leather breastplate with attached spaulders and a back panel of scale mail mounted on leather, and my gorget. Spaulders are stainless steel and also from rough from the hammer, and the gorget is on it's way from the same place we bought husbeasts fencing gorget. in addition I will wear a pair of leather covered vambraces attached to gloves, and leather half gauntlets.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Certainly this mish mash of pieces is nothing even LIKE historically accurate, but, for a viking persona, any armor other than a padded jacket with maybe a chain link shirt is basically not, from anything we can tell, historically accurate. The closest real armor I can find is the Visby coat of plates, in 1361, and of course the questionable birka lamellar scales. But in our particular combat sport, we have rules, and those rules dictate that we use certain amounts of rigid body protection, and good sense dictates a few more. So this is going to be a practical, fun, historical ish project that will hopefully result in a set of armor that I actually like.<br />
<br />
<br />Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7544191661148943723.post-90796557705009172752017-04-16T19:00:00.000-07:002018-01-10T20:24:59.916-08:00Robe a la Francaise, A Modern Twist.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiag9KILl1EnyIxYUjH_U3ewq6pHManRpiobcLIakd-KXgSuK3ninpna1piJypVHUs5UYuI99fM1kKKr39QVuR-2zunefHtRIMYBYHDUoTHM7lWyJFfpAFMcuukOfDSDyrPIIqnxNu9pOTn/s1600/Declarationoflove.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiag9KILl1EnyIxYUjH_U3ewq6pHManRpiobcLIakd-KXgSuK3ninpna1piJypVHUs5UYuI99fM1kKKr39QVuR-2zunefHtRIMYBYHDUoTHM7lWyJFfpAFMcuukOfDSDyrPIIqnxNu9pOTn/s320/Declarationoflove.jpg" width="264" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jean-François de Troy, The Declaration of Love, 1731</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of my favorite things to do in my own designing (when I'm not obsessed with historical <br />
reacreation) is to use historical garments as the foundation for wearable modern clothes. Whether it be a house robe or a formal gown, there's something enticing and fascinating about blending classical forms with modern sensibilities. Most of the time for my own fashion choices (at least the ones I wear out of the house!) I stick to a very 1940's and early 50's new look vibe. It's suitable for my figure, and I love the look. But for special occasion dresses, it's a lot of fun to just go a little wild, and the girls are the perfect models!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJaUaZlT0HonV1ep3hUbDUiE386BpzOG2VEURa4XRNLYBI9UFD1UX7pjqGVx18pLsP3Ss5eVjauEwQ7KZU43KlTJQDghL2DLoHlmnEfqp-FHVW7AILWae2jw6Jy9OAva0hbwJETfHz5Is/s1600/met+french+gown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJaUaZlT0HonV1ep3hUbDUiE386BpzOG2VEURa4XRNLYBI9UFD1UX7pjqGVx18pLsP3Ss5eVjauEwQ7KZU43KlTJQDghL2DLoHlmnEfqp-FHVW7AILWae2jw6Jy9OAva0hbwJETfHz5Is/s320/met+french+gown.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the collection of the Metripolitan </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I admit to having a weakness for the robe a la francaise, or sack back gown. Even though there's very little about the rococo period that I like (most of it's just too much for me. Music, Interior decorating... even the art) there's something about the fitted tapered front, and elegant sleeves of the robe a la francaise, contrasted against the flowing, voluminous Watteau pleats that I just love. These gowns also showcase some of the most phenomenal use of large prints and particularly striped prints, that I've ever seen. I may be a little obsessed.<br />
<br />
I've done one sack backed project before. I have a dressing gown that's a empire waist with a sack back which is both comfortable and elegant. It's been one of my favorites for years, but I've yearned to do a closer approximation of the style. This has been simmering on the back burner for a long time in the "nowhere to wear it and it's not practical for at home" pot. But as I was looking at fabrics for my daughter's Easter dresses inspiration struck. I could do a gown, constructed in the period manner, complete with elbow flounces, with the entire top layer made out of terminally sparkly organze, making a whole modern twist out of a beautiful historical gown. I drew ups some designs and showed them to Ladybug, and she was in love. so away I went.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFkBZiauuqkwthKVEwA9AhGvA4mLZPRe6R-cQLf2xK-nxP5q537RD0FzU5fnlbbec_Be-GJdGOzzFgUyEJDhbyXLRea59pz16tJ-DG_RRUwu9-CgDW-9lAwg4G2_0L-z3GNbrUonfXYgv3/s1600/17835225_10209087953983397_1151305733833481971_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="504" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFkBZiauuqkwthKVEwA9AhGvA4mLZPRe6R-cQLf2xK-nxP5q537RD0FzU5fnlbbec_Be-GJdGOzzFgUyEJDhbyXLRea59pz16tJ-DG_RRUwu9-CgDW-9lAwg4G2_0L-z3GNbrUonfXYgv3/s640/17835225_10209087953983397_1151305733833481971_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The original sack back I experimented with for my dressing gown had the pleats gathered into the neckline direct, which had some difficulties inherent to it: all that bulk, the pleats didn't want to turn under into neck seam easily, it wanted to pull at the neckline, etc etc. So for this gown I decided to select the other construction option, which uses a yoke. That way you don't have to turn down all those layers of pleated fabric, but instead just flip the yoke up over them. In some ways the line isn't as clean as pleats falling from the back neckline direct, but the construction is simpler. The yoke also gives you an easy flat space to attache trim, which with planned ruffled ribbon trim, was another plus.<br />
<br />
I drafted the gown off of another roccoco inspired gown I had made last year, this one had a faux stomacher and a pollanaise style skirt. It took a standard sleeve pattern that I also have in stock, which made it easier than re-drafting from a block. Super secret: I hate drafting sleeves. If I have something similar I've already drafted I will frequently bastardize the pattern rather than go back and re do sleeve and armscythe drafting. With a few minor alterations, the pattern was a go.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBFTus_onTXFw7X5D0WPmPM8xm3OMEksanL3yoYzpDD19SeqR-oMPn07Mil1CAX154I1x6owKWzx6cLrWX7qEIxxwrDm9AhSpJYBQo2DYI_kOxTd0B3emlyAiHkb0qV1f1u2APcNaRyn_K/s1600/DSC_1588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBFTus_onTXFw7X5D0WPmPM8xm3OMEksanL3yoYzpDD19SeqR-oMPn07Mil1CAX154I1x6owKWzx6cLrWX7qEIxxwrDm9AhSpJYBQo2DYI_kOxTd0B3emlyAiHkb0qV1f1u2APcNaRyn_K/s320/DSC_1588.JPG" width="320" /></a>I had a yard and half of super sparkle organza, and about the same of a purple satin. The plan was to use the organza for the entire exterior gown, and the satin for the interior gown and stomacher and then add ruffled trim. The first hurdle showed up as I began laying out pattern pieces This gown uses a LOT of fabric. Yes, those capitals are necessary. To illustrate the stupid amount of fabric this gown takes: Kitten is 16 months old now and wears 24 month sizes. Her gown used all but scraps of an entire yard of 60" wide organza. So, when I laid out Ladybug's, it was instantly obvious that I wasn't going to be able to get sleeves, ruffles, and the gown pieces out of the organza unless the back was pitifully narrow.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVLV1c5SjamRGoEUWhCvxFBL3G-ezkkrw2H1aYucVoMKrovQ6VrG3zwcD6oJblYWAHQH4NhECOY-16r2NsYOGwZ0NIYXXJSbXIkIbLvgSMiwOPko2fVif4YRtYoIZqLxmW-Wtpzcw6mRi/s1600/DSC_1594.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAVLV1c5SjamRGoEUWhCvxFBL3G-ezkkrw2H1aYucVoMKrovQ6VrG3zwcD6oJblYWAHQH4NhECOY-16r2NsYOGwZ0NIYXXJSbXIkIbLvgSMiwOPko2fVif4YRtYoIZqLxmW-Wtpzcw6mRi/s320/DSC_1594.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
So back to the stash I went and came out with some embroidered chiffon and an old white silk shirt. There was enough there for the sleeve ruffle and a matching stomacher, and it was a nice compliment. of course it was terrible and slithery to work with, but in for a penny, in for a pound! The only downside was you could see the seam allowances through the chiffon where I made the ruffles. this bothers me but is basically invisible on the finished gown. I may still go back and try to put some trim over it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiT9ytvqGo6wF10cpSqG4qE55-O69wWqx5G87aOt-0NFrh3356TIeUBNbXeOshUgPNP8ZxzILaLvvhAiwH90YTL-Oyjk7IpdCj46N41uxtE20T7bRGyemMPzRbzXSUxp-vcHj7BInp87rB/s1600/DSC_1601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiT9ytvqGo6wF10cpSqG4qE55-O69wWqx5G87aOt-0NFrh3356TIeUBNbXeOshUgPNP8ZxzILaLvvhAiwH90YTL-Oyjk7IpdCj46N41uxtE20T7bRGyemMPzRbzXSUxp-vcHj7BInp87rB/s320/DSC_1601.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
The dean of the fashion dept when I was in school, Mrs. Hannan, always said that working with synthetic organza was like trying to sew live spiders together. She's not wrong, but I still do use it occasionally, particularly for little girl dresses. This fabric though? I don't care HOW sparkly it is, I will never EVER use it again. You can't iron it without a pressing cloth. Iron the front? The little plastic jewels melt on the iron. Iron the back? The glue from the jewels seeps through the cloth and onto the iron. It was also a nightmare to sew evenly, you can see how completely crooked my top stitching on these sleeve ruffles is. Every time you hit some of the jewels the fabric jigged, and you might not even see the ones you hit, because they could be in one of the bottom layers. The fabric made what should have been a fun project into rather a nightmare.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2HJrudA_aN0PIC_zgUaouQRZIu-2aI7fxVf7NEmCXIoISNyk7LLGrSbIWJ78nRhHL2FtBqFChvEzPFxr82y3O11P8JQJrhBWqebebsr8-4Cw4onNh20S3PJ1E95WBhnKNb_BvkkRVVmN_/s1600/DSC_1602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2HJrudA_aN0PIC_zgUaouQRZIu-2aI7fxVf7NEmCXIoISNyk7LLGrSbIWJ78nRhHL2FtBqFChvEzPFxr82y3O11P8JQJrhBWqebebsr8-4Cw4onNh20S3PJ1E95WBhnKNb_BvkkRVVmN_/s320/DSC_1602.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Whenever I'm making a gown with a sleeve treatment I like to apply the treatments to the sleeve before I attach the sleeve. This saves wrangling the whole gown around while trying to evenly apply ruffles. I also like to try and cleverly hide all the raw edges. In this case you want to trim the organza as little as possible. because it's evil and ravelly and will slither out of the seams if given half a chance. I flipped the seam allowances to the outside here, and then sewed ribbon trim down over it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZZ82DbhHRmyXYM6DR_DnO3jgWcpSt9XxD-vmDnAj4w0JKrXRmVRihipsRoBA8eWBYSpwswSyAJcAaonlAYfD7AkMiSDKE43RtrMfj3ZksMcdtyCKJ0kOaZ17b0NKd8Opnes63y7r1dvVH/s1600/watteau+pleats+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZZ82DbhHRmyXYM6DR_DnO3jgWcpSt9XxD-vmDnAj4w0JKrXRmVRihipsRoBA8eWBYSpwswSyAJcAaonlAYfD7AkMiSDKE43RtrMfj3ZksMcdtyCKJ0kOaZ17b0NKd8Opnes63y7r1dvVH/s400/watteau+pleats+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I used a heavy linen underlining to give the bodice some weight. then stay stitched all the satin to it to keep that from slithering off. Then I pinned the pleats, and sewed the yoke down over them. This was a really great way to do the sack back. I wished I'd had more fabric in the back, but it made fairly full pleats.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnCPJvTwbQQMAofL380u6jjQCOYcEsyN0mmWsxYT5TsI7iC6TQuvNLSkX3A3gqRbVKBRqBjnMaiQOdlQ5fzkrY_lrbBUog4v-0yjE8qyAt_h8ROJ2vGXSwrhqWrstKVQqNvSth9djTb5Sx/s1600/DSC_1604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnCPJvTwbQQMAofL380u6jjQCOYcEsyN0mmWsxYT5TsI7iC6TQuvNLSkX3A3gqRbVKBRqBjnMaiQOdlQ5fzkrY_lrbBUog4v-0yjE8qyAt_h8ROJ2vGXSwrhqWrstKVQqNvSth9djTb5Sx/s320/DSC_1604.JPG" width="320" /></a>The bodice came together fairly quickly. The trickiest part of the whole gown was pleating in the side pleats. I was able to cheat a little bit because I was using an attached under skirt instead of the historically accurate petticoat so I just caught the pleats in the waist seam and was done with it. Putting in the sleeves and the lining was a nightmare because of the fabric. Instead of just giving all the seam allowances a good heavy steam pressing to make the edges crisp and keep everything in place while I was sewing in the lining, I had to hand baste all the edges of the sleeve and the neckline to the underlining, which, while it seems like a small thing, added another few hours of labor to the job.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyA00aM3ECMHyB9ublEVYwBQdLhJCO3HcSsQg_jF1TfjXJao21SucZQuNryt5L51h_bpQ4JHCgdU5PCIl2lgsdG-Ojx6RO78CXYX1G8XXVjLnoks5BHoGc4r-RP7K1TsUk803kHnXmtOR/s1600/DSC_1605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLyA00aM3ECMHyB9ublEVYwBQdLhJCO3HcSsQg_jF1TfjXJao21SucZQuNryt5L51h_bpQ4JHCgdU5PCIl2lgsdG-Ojx6RO78CXYX1G8XXVjLnoks5BHoGc4r-RP7K1TsUk803kHnXmtOR/s320/DSC_1605.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Then I added the under skirt. I pleated it onto the bodice, but gathered a large loop of it directly under the side pleats. This gave it a shadow of the silhouette that would have been given by panniers in the original gowns.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinqBVnPIVdiDR1tDMeww1HwPjIqWxIVizSdYgANaEDH0PIRp06bjaK7MsKdK-6fnmQg2XLHDK7Kb6pykFO3-pypcNM-BLGZj64uTH5KM9q78ROtK2Gi0HqoqBdzh61xhF7bQimEdkGI9eW/s1600/DSC_1606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinqBVnPIVdiDR1tDMeww1HwPjIqWxIVizSdYgANaEDH0PIRp06bjaK7MsKdK-6fnmQg2XLHDK7Kb6pykFO3-pypcNM-BLGZj64uTH5KM9q78ROtK2Gi0HqoqBdzh61xhF7bQimEdkGI9eW/s320/DSC_1606.JPG" width="320" /></a>With that sorted and the lining sewed down I put on ruffled organza ribbon trim. Yards. and Yards, and Yards of ruffled organza ribbon trim. Because go big or go home right?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4OSTvng004lk2nb-P4tOwEUKVy3IPDVNjIWbJLq2AnYwyn32YLfSYi9IfRANySxLoIZ87ftYgX3C_lzXJhsHoP43t4xuWTW80jXH_4yNRPI0h1CVWIztUUmqt_gpqBSEIIj1qZCF2-w4/s1600/DSC_1607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_4OSTvng004lk2nb-P4tOwEUKVy3IPDVNjIWbJLq2AnYwyn32YLfSYi9IfRANySxLoIZ87ftYgX3C_lzXJhsHoP43t4xuWTW80jXH_4yNRPI0h1CVWIztUUmqt_gpqBSEIIj1qZCF2-w4/s320/DSC_1607.JPG" width="214" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyVd0eqAbWxPlkQp9CMuHy2sYga3RcK1DPg4jPAJyvp2l-2tQJN8c0i3dbcnwsbhyHN9v6w0PvC7A6A9ai9POwKyK2qcwz6b4azIuv6m1At4n7ZbB1-SyqetoDvlHeXbEFMZOtXVYh0F_n/s1600/DSC_1608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyVd0eqAbWxPlkQp9CMuHy2sYga3RcK1DPg4jPAJyvp2l-2tQJN8c0i3dbcnwsbhyHN9v6w0PvC7A6A9ai9POwKyK2qcwz6b4azIuv6m1At4n7ZbB1-SyqetoDvlHeXbEFMZOtXVYh0F_n/s320/DSC_1608.JPG" width="320" /></a>Then the stomacher, which I sewed down to the lining at one side, and applied hook and loop tape to the other of for closure. Again, a historical fudge. Stomachers tended to be pinned into place, but that's just not practical for tiny people. The stomacher has one plastic cable tie down the center to help it keep it's shape and two layers of underlining.<br />
<br />
Finished and on to Kitten's dress!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYJ6YXpFqrAKs6Sug3apMqQyJ-DLiKeofGeqOucPyJcwuIBnA9Dfh93ezMF-QSdGStf5rUQMJaF7Hv3uusT8kvKQi5-FtXN2mdd8axx-3cfbUBhI0Hwa2KR2q4eQ8CNyCI1JOY_NWV38Js/s1600/DSC_1599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYJ6YXpFqrAKs6Sug3apMqQyJ-DLiKeofGeqOucPyJcwuIBnA9Dfh93ezMF-QSdGStf5rUQMJaF7Hv3uusT8kvKQi5-FtXN2mdd8axx-3cfbUBhI0Hwa2KR2q4eQ8CNyCI1JOY_NWV38Js/s320/DSC_1599.JPG" width="320" /></a>I picked cow print for Kitten's dress. Because of a hilarious family story started by my Aunt, my Cousin, and a ridiculous cow print romper one easter long ago cow print baby clothes have become a thing in my family. I decided to keep it going with my youngest this year, so she got her very own cow print gown.<br />
<br />
I love drafting for babies: the pieces are barely shaped so it's super easy to change a pattern you know fits to new lines. I started from her little wool kirtle, and moved stuff around some.<br />
<br />
The construction process was exactly the same except I could IRON this fabric. Therefore I managed to make her whole gown in about the same time it took me to make Ladybug's sleeves. Seriously, that's the difference fabric makes. (also it's tiny so it goes faster, but not that much faster!) I did do kitten's watteau pleats straight from the neckline and then hand stitch them down into shape. Partially just because I wanted to try both methods back to back, and partially because the gown is so small, more seams in a small space like that just add bulk.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf4VkHpgHQvpeOXbIMB0_-SAJV63eU7DltU3ha7NNOpWpSjfbUetIz476iTkJ8jq8tYFZpR_hnN5StLNAV3Lps-zYrrnD5dWQo2ujf1vaosbphJqBk4Wj8hP-wvQTvtqAH87JaZZiiHTl4/s1600/watteau+pleats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf4VkHpgHQvpeOXbIMB0_-SAJV63eU7DltU3ha7NNOpWpSjfbUetIz476iTkJ8jq8tYFZpR_hnN5StLNAV3Lps-zYrrnD5dWQo2ujf1vaosbphJqBk4Wj8hP-wvQTvtqAH87JaZZiiHTl4/s640/watteau+pleats.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByYpmuDUe4PhFRsxNgbefPpB_a_TciiSSwtASOWjSROzVEJnTH-I8oVdfkyGWjGeq40P9f2V4qdKqR-VbJjtJrKArQvHlT5T13u2JudC0NOLxyTsbtW48CwcO9_kx9RIDf0d-gVXYkRbR/s1600/DSC_1613.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByYpmuDUe4PhFRsxNgbefPpB_a_TciiSSwtASOWjSROzVEJnTH-I8oVdfkyGWjGeq40P9f2V4qdKqR-VbJjtJrKArQvHlT5T13u2JudC0NOLxyTsbtW48CwcO9_kx9RIDf0d-gVXYkRbR/s320/DSC_1613.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
My Model got tired waiting for me to finish....<br />
<br />
I had my major oops for the project with Kitten's gown. Somehow, although I checked it twice both when I put the ruffle on the sleeve and when I put the sleeve on the gown, I managed to put the sleeve ruffles on backwards, so the long part is to the front. Thankfully it wasn't super noticeable. I'll take it off and turn it around later when I have more time!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimVSyc4HZUTsMBVOi5-VbOeD4c7c9l9vZGhbET88AKKCnXvqfg6wobaxArVi4ce-sAiZ_jzimsn8KzuIQq-s2A-SvBN399iTT-vkIuXTy4W18k0R9iochWWcf0Cvv7-bcyX0lcfoMUlQdC/s1600/DSC_1625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimVSyc4HZUTsMBVOi5-VbOeD4c7c9l9vZGhbET88AKKCnXvqfg6wobaxArVi4ce-sAiZ_jzimsn8KzuIQq-s2A-SvBN399iTT-vkIuXTy4W18k0R9iochWWcf0Cvv7-bcyX0lcfoMUlQdC/s640/DSC_1625.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My sparkle princess! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_vjzuKeoVDWCePWutUrjhSpn_buNq84nk6Ldq65_WzZG5mBMkMqmZ_P-t3ns97YDha8SEQQpwuz2wFRwSWRk3bct1-w2V4Hz509hujN4OUYO33jbMyse-Opu9Qw9cl-8_fmGdBab-wM_P/s1600/DSC_1628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_vjzuKeoVDWCePWutUrjhSpn_buNq84nk6Ldq65_WzZG5mBMkMqmZ_P-t3ns97YDha8SEQQpwuz2wFRwSWRk3bct1-w2V4Hz509hujN4OUYO33jbMyse-Opu9Qw9cl-8_fmGdBab-wM_P/s640/DSC_1628.JPG" width="428" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEetRWRa74Lpqy1bq1l8F6vt4tum8KhKgJngFsh4zaBCkOf6dA_AUTbsIpry7_21VXpHWmZi97kwuUwryM8If4K3eQo-9P-CnWH33Ab4CUTpFqJtmGDLsIMU6J3VNJ-MKjko7AQEXitc4j/s1600/DSC_1629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEetRWRa74Lpqy1bq1l8F6vt4tum8KhKgJngFsh4zaBCkOf6dA_AUTbsIpry7_21VXpHWmZi97kwuUwryM8If4K3eQo-9P-CnWH33Ab4CUTpFqJtmGDLsIMU6J3VNJ-MKjko7AQEXitc4j/s640/DSC_1629.JPG" width="428" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAkTivS5uPUZppa_8Ga9S14y9xc3hklCeZ3Tn9Bkxs3QL94ZJWJrwdAhf3gtpokPGivicOL6Bdd5TK7yMwaxL4XgiB_-kzQkFjG8jQ_6njW7uK9rxpj8fAGUrY3jcXgBmAiaCPKhoMm1MS/s1600/DSC_1663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAkTivS5uPUZppa_8Ga9S14y9xc3hklCeZ3Tn9Bkxs3QL94ZJWJrwdAhf3gtpokPGivicOL6Bdd5TK7yMwaxL4XgiB_-kzQkFjG8jQ_6njW7uK9rxpj8fAGUrY3jcXgBmAiaCPKhoMm1MS/s640/DSC_1663.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I added vintage glass buttons to the bows on Kitten's stomacher for a little extra sparkle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VZuLlwZhZKCB2zvgM-kSpNBU6IkVb8tLoRlp9ETfuaPtPG7k1JjPI5UJNdVyEYOpQljqzSxxD1MJj-ORY8ZP6CxSAhTR_fYkwcJxd4iBn2rLUtCYQ0go5MrDL97r-EB_-gNCxCvyWcRl/s1600/DSC_1667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VZuLlwZhZKCB2zvgM-kSpNBU6IkVb8tLoRlp9ETfuaPtPG7k1JjPI5UJNdVyEYOpQljqzSxxD1MJj-ORY8ZP6CxSAhTR_fYkwcJxd4iBn2rLUtCYQ0go5MrDL97r-EB_-gNCxCvyWcRl/s640/DSC_1667.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">note the backwards sleeve ruffle.... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUEmE0M861cphJz_6CqoyN1aq0Ay0UBep8zLXMbYPikFzQRI6ATBesmWKTaeCPRF7Q_UHpzXZBxVpOjmbaTkOVXGFW9hiLElIa6_QnfOZEKQ1BfK39C8mqZE2VwtrIT2N4BkJgVN58zBU/s1600/DSC_1665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjUEmE0M861cphJz_6CqoyN1aq0Ay0UBep8zLXMbYPikFzQRI6ATBesmWKTaeCPRF7Q_UHpzXZBxVpOjmbaTkOVXGFW9hiLElIa6_QnfOZEKQ1BfK39C8mqZE2VwtrIT2N4BkJgVN58zBU/s640/DSC_1665.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first time Ladybug saw Kitten in her gown, she said "Look mom, she's a tiny cow fairy!"<br />
The sack back does look a little like wings when she runs around! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwkrLL6Tf9z0PNckm0vygM14wejGNfRAo-VCTcDtSHTEuL8t2wqXNeM6_knbUH1XcUUs4zK1zJziBKLtnckd9kBJntzJ2m4z5YmxsXlo77sPAW1EuF6QAFB5K1qLMY7wahVci8HV7bP8yl/s1600/DSC_1630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwkrLL6Tf9z0PNckm0vygM14wejGNfRAo-VCTcDtSHTEuL8t2wqXNeM6_knbUH1XcUUs4zK1zJziBKLtnckd9kBJntzJ2m4z5YmxsXlo77sPAW1EuF6QAFB5K1qLMY7wahVci8HV7bP8yl/s640/DSC_1630.JPG" width="428" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crash and Bang didn't get left out. They got Dapper Dude Vests. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Mousehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13243626407099454336noreply@blogger.com0